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That’s a good point and worth distinguishing. A better word may be “aggressive,” which, as it turns out isn’t even all that relevant in this instance because OP has a vinyl liner.

I was looking at yours 🤦🏻‍♂️

Also, your CSI is -1.42, which is quite corrosive.

What kind of surface do you have, vinyl? I hope you don’t have a plaster pool with CH that low…

In case anyone is curious... My new TDS salt meter arrived today. Checked calibration against a known 3000 ppm solution before using. My pool sample came out to 2751 ppm NaCl. So, SWG, two pool stores, and my new meter are showing essentially 2700. Then you have the Taylor drop test showing...

"Check salt" and "inspect cell" were illuminated and wouldn't stay off, despite inspecting the cell, cleaning it, and keeping the salt level above 3000. Zero chlorine production. Cell voltage was also well out of spec. I don't recall the exact number.

Yeah, I'm going to add half a bag in the morning once it stops raining and see how we're looking.

Well, I took a sample to two stores, both came back with 2700 ppm using a meter. So, given three readings of 2700 vs. 3200 on the drop test, so I’m thinking the drop test is the one that’s off by the greatest margin. Pretty sure my testing method is sound, so either the margin of error really is...

Oh, duh. I gave you the new cell serial number. Brain fart. 3F18150 is the old cell. So May 30 of 2018? And still under warranty? None of this jives with what the owner left me in his notes. He reported replacing the original Mineral Springs system with the current Hayward unit in about 2012...

No, the previous owner reported buying the cell in 2016. I take it the serial number says otherwise? Sigh... What are some other reliable ways to test salinity?

The average salinity has since gone back up to 2700. Here is my reporting of readings: Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings. 2700 74 31.9 0.00 29P - 0 AL-6 r 1.47 Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings. 2700 74 27.9 3.61 28P -2700 AL-6 r 1.47 Move the...

It's generating, but since it dropped below 2700 it is throwing check salt and inspect cell warnings, and thus I assume it is operating at reduced efficiency.

I will do that and report back shortly. It sure as heck better be. Bought it from Inyo last month.

I replaced my cell a couple of weeks ago with a brand new one. Right after I installed it, the K-1766 test (also a brand new replacement) indicated 2200 ppm, which was identical to the reading I was getting from the SWG. I shut it off, added 100 lbs. of salt, and 24 hours after turning my SWG...

It does have a flow switch; in fact, I have to run my pump faster than I'd prefer because it will trip a no-flow under about 1200 rpm. The other issue I have is that sometimes even 1200 rpm is too slow for the salinity reading and I'll get a check salt light. Then I have to do a recalibration...

As is the case for many people here, we inherited our 12K gal. in-ground pool and everything that goes with it when we bought our house a couple of years ago. Over those two years, I've successfully eliminated the effects of most of the bad practices (floc, copper algaecide, sequestrant, etc.)...

Ok, I have no doubt you’ve got salt in the pool. FYI though, those salt strips can be all over the place. I really like the Taylor K-1766 test kit.

Oh also, you may not have seen my question about your salinity levels and whether you added salt yet. Have you manually tested your salinity, and have you added any salt this year?

Ok. I was going to say maybe you didn’t notice chlorine being generated because it was getting consumed so quickly, but I’d expect to see CC levels present if that was the case. Solely based on my personal experience with the AquaRite, it seems unlikely that you’d have a chlorine production...

Regarding your units: starting with your toggle switch in the “auto” position, push the diagnostics button to get to the temperature display. Then flip the switch to “superchlorinate” and immediately back to “auto.” You should see the unit of measure change. Wait 30 seconds for the screen to go...