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I can't recommend a SWG enough, and that's despite the fact I can usually buy 5 gal of 10.5% for under $10. The SWG saves you from lugging heavy jugs of chlorine, making frequent trips to the pool store, etc. Cost is higher up front, but I expect it to be a wash over the long haul.

Yes, but the chance of that happening is very low, and a risk I'm willing to take. The flow switch is the backup/failsafe in case the timers ever get out of sync with each other, or the pump fails. I would NEVER rely on a flow switch as the primary on/off for the SWG, but I have no issue with...

My pump is a variable speed model with built in clock/timer/controls. I have it run at a high rpm first thing in the morning, low rpm thru the day while making chlorine, and high rpm again in the evening. The high rpm periods allow the suction cleaner to do its thing. My SWG is on its own...

I didn't say it was rational... :p

And today the pool is back to blue and clear. Measured 16 FC and .5 CC this morning. SS brush arrives today - I'm gonna work on the spots over the weekend and then do an OCLT.

Define "regular", lol... I test pH and FC pretty regularly. I test TA and CA far less often, and these numbers hardly ever shift in my pool - I have not needed to add calcium or baking soda in 4+ years. Agreed - honestly I was surprised to see it was so low. I usually try to keep it in the...

Yeah, it's easy to get lulled into a false sense of complacency once the SWG is dialed in. Sure love having one though... beats the heck out of lugging chlorine jugs around to refill every week. Morning stats: pH: 7.5 FC: 13 CYA: <20 (bringing this up to 30) TA: 60 CA: 300 SALT: 2900 Ordered...

Looked out back yesterday and the pool had a distinct greenish tinge. Haven't seen that in YEARS following TFP. Well, apparently the old timer controlling my SWG stopped working. Naturally, it chose to do so in the OFF position. Not sure how many days it took, but the chlorine fell off, and...

I had a non-LED light that started working intermittently a few years back. Mine was a bad wire nut connection at the light junction box. Look for an electrical box on a pipe sticking up out of the ground - either near your pool light or the equipment pad. On mine, I found that the cover was...

Hope you have better luck than me. I'm finding it to be difficult to eradicate completely. The mustard algae disappears at SLAM level FC, but it comes back at normal levels. About a month ago, I completed a 4 day slam + 24 hours at elevated Mustard Algae level. When I let the FC come back...

I dunno. That looks an awful lot like the algae I've battled in my pool. Water column is perfectly clear - it only grows on the sides (less sun), disappears with elevated FC, comes back at recommended FC target. Even with aggressive brushing, a little brushes off (you seen a tiny algae...

I agree that it's likely mustard algae. Where I'm disheartened is that it seems the TFP SLAM, OCLT passed, then +24 hrs at Mustard Algae FC does not appear to be sufficient to kill it off. Sure, it disappeared while FC was elevated, but it came back in less than a week - and during that week...

Unless my pool's gravity somehow pulls pollen to the south wall, but not the bottom, I think we can rule out pollen. ;) - - - Updated - - - No, I haven't removed the light fixture. The last time I had it out (couple of years back) it was clean. Might be worth taking a look this weekend...

It's the entire 30' length of the south wall of the pool. So the flow varies a bit from the area closest to the return, and the far end of the pool, and no difference in the algae based on that flow. But in general there is a good circular flow around the entire pool. Let me know what you're...

~15k plaster pool in S Florida. I have a yellow/green algae that likes to grow on the shaded walls on the south side of the pool. Here are my general chemistry numbers: FC 5-7 daily (I chlorinate with 10% liquid) CYA 40 pH 7.8 TA 70 CH 250 Temp 85 My pH tends to the high side, so I tend to...

It will come down quickly. I just finished a slam this week. On Wednesday I was at FC 24 (mustard algae high shock level for CYA of 40) and today it was back down to 9 around lunchtime. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Just keep in mind, bleach and liquid chlorine are the same thing. The common advice on this site is to use bleach, because in most areas of the country bleach is easier to find and often cheaper. However, FL is not most areas of the country, and often times liquid chlorine from the pool store is...

Dave, the algae is all gone now. Sadly, I nuked it with a bromine treatment prior to realizing there was a special SLAM procedure for mustard algae. Next time....wait, hopefully there won't be a next time. :D

If the brown is from metal, it's not something you can filter out. You'd be talking sequestrants, which I have zero experience with. If it's particulates from the grout or plaster, your filter can probably pull it out once running. I don't think there's much of anything you can do while the...

Thought it was worth an update, and some pics. Pool is absolutely crystal clear. That bromine absolutely annihilated whatever was growing on the sides. I have had a lot of chlorine demand (especially earlier in the week) from the bromine, so had I known that going in, I would not do the...

Unfortunately, you need that FAS-DPD kit to test FC (and CC) with enough accuracy to call the SLAM complete. Strips and color charts will not get you the accuracy this requires, or test at the elevated levels you need to have present. You also need to know your accurate CYA level, otherwise...

It's also possible (I'll let others debate the likelihood) that you have a chlorine resistant algae like mustard algae that can grow even at recommended FC levels. I went through something similar, even after fixing my circulation issues (missing return eyeball) and passing the OCLT, the algae...

$11 for 2.5gal ($4.40/gal) vs. $12 for 4gal ($3/gal)? Seems like an easy decision to me. Plus, 1g jugs are easier to carry and pour (I have used both, depending on the prices).

Since no one else pointed this out, I will mention one thing. You were at FC 16.5, and added what you thought was enough bleach to go to 28. When you measured 12 hours later, you were actually at 33 (so maybe you overshot a bit?). However, you don't mention adding any more chlorine, but...

Matt, Thanks for sharing the details on bromine. I will keep a close eye on my chlorine demand and see what's happening. If I'm understanding you, you're saying that when I do my FC test on the TF-100, some portion of that will be reflecting the presence of bromine, and not just chlorine. So...

Well, I'm back to having a clean pool...finally. Spent over a week dosing to shock level, watching the pool clear, only to see algae return when CL came back down. I even passed an OCLT, but as soon as I let the chlorine fall, I started seeing the same stuff return. Water column has been...

I haven't shaken all the algae just yet, but the new return eyeball is installed. Had to wait till today so I could get in the pool. Slip fittings, so I had to put it in, and give it a few gentle taps with a hammer (underwater) to secure it fully. Oh my, the difference in flow is staggering...

Brushed the pool last night, and again this morning. Just trying to ensure no film builds up to allow the algae to grow. Very faint discoloration on the wall where algae has been. Not really rubbing off anything at this point, so I'm not sure if it's possibly some mild staining of the...

Hey guys, just a quick update. We're making some progress. I had to report for jury duty yesterday, so the pool had to take a back seat. Last night the FC was at 7, so I gave it a good brushing and added more chlorine. I'm seeing less on the wall patches, but still some around the waterline...

Joyful, I kept the same impeller when I replaced the motor. Same size, should have been a direct replacement - at least that was my thinking at the time. I snapped a pic of the old faded motor plate, and it was 3/4hp, SF 1.27. The replacement is also 3/4 and 1.27. Hmm... both are/were...