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Re: Pool Store said I have "Chlorine Lock". Mustard Algae.H If you brushed all the surfaces, chances are the dead stuff is in suspension. Keep the filter running and chlorine up. If there is little improvement after 48 hours, floc it. That will cause anything in suspension to drop to the...

Re: Pool Store said I have "Chlorine Lock". Mustard Algae.H Point the returns up to break the surface of the water. If you can find it, a return mounted fountain is also a good way to aerate the water which will reduce the alkalinity. Another alternative is to add some acid to reduce the alk...

Re: Pool Store said I have "Chlorine Lock". Mustard Algae.H Chlorine lock is a made up term. Often, as is your situation, it means you have too much CYA stabilizer in the water. Shocking levels at that point are very high for its the unstabilized chlorine that does the work. The solution is...

Pollen? This time of year? Indoors? I don't know about that one. Scott

After the BA is solved, she'll need to dilute. The calcium level should be 1/2 that. Scott

Sounds like the pool failed an overnight chlorine loss test. Something used the FC. Shock the pool as described in Pool School. Scott

Skimmer socks or cheap nylon stockings usually catch it before it get to the filter. Scott

I would also add that if the algae bloom was significant, initially vacuuming to waste would get rid of the majority of dead stuff and not gunk up a filter. Yes, it will wind up diluting things like salt, CYA, and calcium, but it's faster and easier than degunking the filter. Scott

Did you brush it as it was curing? Scott

If it's tar like, it is in fact cobalting. Notify the manufacturer. Scott

I would since you should still be lowering the CYA. 85 is still too high except for the desert south west and long periods of direct sun. Unless you have a salt cell, you would need to keep your FC at 7 or 8, a fairly significant level, cost wise. With a salt cell, it's 5 or 6. Shocking levels...

Most pool stores can test it with strips or sell you the strips. They aren't super precise but for swimming pool use, precision isn't that critical. Scott

Your FC is too high. Lighten up on the liquid chlorine. Check the salt level. Scott

Shocking is a process: Voltage doesn't kill, amperage does. In order to pass enough current, add a few extra bags of salt first. Then drop the the ground clamp of a Lincon Arc welder in the water. (Hint)If you go to a boating store, you can get a couple large zinc anodes and put one on the...

renovxpt, great line!

Indoor pool and 80 CYA = dumping a lot of water. Strips suck. Most Health Departments demand DPD-FAS checking. Many restrict CYA in indoor commercial pools. Di-chlor powder and Trichlor sticks/tabs both add CYA. Cal-Hypo adds calcium. Liquid only adds salt. Scott

Dumped 1/2 the pool? What was and what the salt level? What are you using to test the level with? Are you using a DPD-FAS test for the chlorine? Something is eating the FC, forming the CC. Close the pool until it can pass an overnight test. Keep the filter running. Bring the FC to shocking...

If it's copper, Bruce is probably right but it might just be the remaining stain buried deep. If my earlier solution doesn't get it, then a little acid down a pipe over the stain will tell pretty quickly. Scott

It is a plaster pool. Don't paint it! How old is the finish? Is it still smooth or like medium/rough grit sandpaper? Try a wire brush and some elbow grease and keep the chlorine elevated some, 15-20% of the CYA level. It should fade over time. Scott

Vac out the dead algae. If there is live under it, it will get better exposure to FC and the dead stuff won't cloud up the water. Scott

I wouldn't sweat the CC level. Have you tried to vac out the dead yet? Scott

Clorox or Great Value may be less costly. They are 6% vs Leslie's 12%. Many here use it. After you have killed the algae, give it an additional 24 hours so it lets go of the wall and floor. Then vac to waste, working quickly to minimize lost water. Scott

Leslies will be fine. The only things we typically use strips for are borates and salt. Some iron but not often. Leslie's usually uses their OEM version of the Taylor K2006 test kit. Things we need to know: Gallons pH Alkalinity Free Chlorine Total or Combined Chlorine CYA (aka Stabilizer)...

As Dave/Bama says, get a complete set of results. Then be prepared to start adding liquid chlorine or bleach or if your CH isn't too high, Cal-Hypo .. Stop brushing the live algae or it will just spread more! Algae lets go much easier after it's been dead for 12-24 hours. In fact, you will...

We, as service pros, certainly appreciate the value of the OPs message. I have come to pools with this situation too many times to count. Getting someone on BBB is much easier when they can clear the swamp quickly. They remember how much fun the swamp was. Some never learn. Scott

@ lborne, I know you knew that. I just couldn't resist. As for the builder, he's just too lazy/busy to deal with it. Scott

You have the kind you don't want. Scott

Simple miscommunication. To me a waterfall is a waterfall, not a spa's spill way. Specs don't show in full editor. Full Tx sun or not, that seems like a lot. What are your current chem levels? Scott

Simple brushing just spreads mustard. Shock the heck out of it. It's tough to kill. Use bleach or 12% liquid to get the level up. Turn off the waterfall for now. What are your current chem levels? You seem to be losing a lot of FC per day. Pool specs would be helpful too. Scott

The algae is dead. Vac to waste to get it out. Scott