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I keep mine in its original round container in the original large white plastic kit. I store it indoors in a kitchen cabinet. I just emptied it today on the counter and crushed all the clots and put it back in the round container. I'll look around the house for one of those packets and stick...

Attached is a pic of my R-8070 powder. I store it indoors but it still clots up. When I do a FC test some clots do not disolve all the way. The powder used to be a lighter purple but turned dark pretty quick. Also my test container doesn't get clear anymore. Is my powder still good/usable...

What percent chlorine does HASA or Napco sell.

I’m down southwest in Missouri City. If I head to Spring will they fill my 20 empty 1 gallon jugs?

Hello all. Where in Houston are you all getting your liquid chlorine? If I can find it the cost has jumped to $4.50/gal and up for 10%. I go between Home Depot and Walmart. Lowes just price matched Home Depot at $4.50. I have a 30 gal barrel. Thanks.

Thanks.

Old thread, I know, but are the refills on sale now? I forget where to go to look. Thanks.

My ph levels slowly but continuously rise. I have a raised hot tub that pours into my pool. I like to keep the ph between 7.4-7.6. I have to add a little acid about every 2 weeks. My older brother's pool is almost identical. He lives about 2 miles away. My next-door neighbor and a friend...

I bought my first TF-100 last spring. A couple of weeks ago I ordered refills. My old R-0870 powder has darkened. The new powder is lighter. Is my old powder still good to use until gone or should I throw it away and go with the lighter powder (or combine them into 1)?

I found the video on YouTube that helped. Thanks.

Thanks. I have the waterfall on. ph is up .2 from yesterday and TA down 30. Will do as you said, wait for 7.6 then hit it with the recommended muriatic acid to get back down to 7.0.

Correction. I was looking at yesterday's scratch sheet. My CH is 275.

Also, I need a better tutorial for the Pool Math app. I upgraded to premium yesterday. Since I'm starting with a new complete water fill I started a new log. I inputted today's readings but it still shows yesterday's values. I added the reminder to clean the filters but the reminder came up...

Yesterday I added 7 pounds of Calcium Hardness Increaser from Home Depot. My CH was 225. We got about an inch of rain overnight, I tested the water this morning at my CH is lower, 175. I took my sample about 12" deep and the pumps had been on for about an hour. My ph is still low at 7.2...

Will do, thanks. I didn't know what Braume was.

Also, as I get my ph (which is currently 7.8) back down to 7.0-7.2, how soon will my TA respond and go down? How soon do I retest TA? You helped me with a month ago with issues. I eventually had to empty my pool and start over. My replaster guy came out yesterday and polished the pool, I had...

This is all I see:

Hi. I just upgraded to a premium on the app. As I use the pool math app it gives me the option of 14.5% and 29% for muriatic acid. I get this stuff from Home Depot. Should I just use the 29% figures?

Water now: ph: 7.5 TA: 170 I know the TA is still high. Should I address it or just let the pool stabilize for a few days and see if it keeps coming down? Water is clear and I am currently running the pump about 15 hours a day.

With lower temps and less sunlight, I was hoping to use up the last of the bucket I had since I switched to liquid.

ok. Thx. I added a little over 1 quart of acid. Will give it time to mix and will check later tonight or in the morning.

Pool filled, new cartridges installed. No leaks! Now time to get new water numbers right. FC: .25 CC: .25 ph: 8.0 TA: 190 CYA: <20 (close to 0 with all new water from refill) water temp 64 So far I added recommended liquid chlorine at 10% of 1 quart and 3 cups. Will put a couple of 3"...

Thanks. I just tried to close up the filter without the cartridges in it just so I could circulate the pool. I tried 5 times but the filter would leak. I think the water spray pattern inside was too different without the cartridges in there. The good news is they are supposed to be here by...

After watching the above youtube video I decided to take off the front manifold to see what condition the copper end connectors looked like. I was happily surprised. They weren't that bad. I will flush each line then reassemble.

Any reason if I did this that I could inhibit water from flowing through the heater from now on except when I'm using/testing the heater? What ramifications would there be if no water ran through the heater for months at a time?

I watched this youtube video on opening up the heater and might consider doing this. At least I might open it up today and look inside the heater tub. Anyone ever do this?

Thanks, Tim. I dumped 1.5 gallons of 10% in it on Saturday. The water is pretty cold (50-60 degrees) which should slow down any growth. I will dump another 1/2 gallon in it today. Is there any reason why I can't close the filter back up without the cartridges in it and turn the pump back on...

To a high enough level that will mess the water up again?

I won't have too much more info for a few more days. I am replacing the filters before I turn the system back on. Amazon had a 4 pack of filters for $160. Leslies had them in stock for $400. I can wait 5 days for that $ difference. Didn't want new refilled water running through the turquoise...

ok, thanks. Besides the heater leaking I was worried about re-contaminating the pool that I just emptied.