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Oh man, I totally did that. I was reading the directions that said "Rinse and fill 25 ml sample tube (#9198) to 10 ml mark...." I just stopped reading after 'fill 25ml' . Thanks for pointing out the obvious.

It's been a year since I tested the salt levels in my pool, but last august they were 3800, which is right where I want it for my SWG. I've noticed that it's been flashing lately for high salt and I tested twice today and it came back at 8,000. What would cause that number to rise like that...

This bleach bought 1 month ago has seen a little sun and now it’s all bloated. Do you think it’s still good?

I'm going to refill my pool and add salt per the app. How long after the salt is added will I get an accurate salt reading from my test kit? Once all the salt is visibly dissolved?

Yup, that's why I'm doing it. Just replaced my Intellichlor so I'm giving the new one a fresh start. CH is currently measuring around 1300. My plan is to add the appropriate amount of salt per the app, cya, and chlorine to get it into normal range

I'm going to drain and refill my pool. This is not related to any algae issue and my FC has always been at normal levels. Do I just have to shoot for a FC goal within normal range, or should I be slamming to start?

I think I bought it in a previous life.... I was more concerned about the higher % and didn't think about the extra additives that may have been in it

*Edit: apparently it's not recommended... disregard part** Is this bleach ok? It doesn't have any scents, looks like basic bleach. Wondering because of the 'easy pour' formula

I just tested my water. My pump has been off for two days and I'm at FC 4.5. I'm sure it helps that the water is ice cold still and we'll be around 70 degrees for the next week. The pool is cloudy but that is because all the dirt from my water feature dumped into the pool when I was working...

And of course I go on vacation from Thursday night until Sunday night so I either need to get a friend to come over and swirl the pool around, or knock up the chlorine a bit before that. I will monitor every day to get an idea of how much it jumps around and go from there.

As referenced here (Diverter Replacement Project) I have a 3 way valve that broke and I'm trying to repair it. From a water chemistry standpoint, is there anything I can be doing to help the pool stay as clean as possible while I get this fixed. I cannot run the pool pump unless I find some...

thanks, failed to mention that i was keeping an eye on that, went from some unmeasurable color below 7 to 7.4 and stable

Update: I retested after over an hour with the water circulating and my TA is spot on at 80. So unless baking soda has some sort of long acting effect where the TA will continue to rise, I think I'm good.

I have a dog that dumps gallons of SW pool water on my grass every time he swims and it hasn't caused any issues. Granted, my grass is watered every few days so that may dilute it out, so keep that in mind.

I just dropped the appropriate amount of baking soda into my hot tub to raise my TA from 40 to 80. Is there any amount of time I need to wait to get a reliable number? It's a 425 gallon spa so water circulates pretty quickly.

I use the HTH brand at walmart, and my CYA always rises in accordance to what poolmath says it will. If that stabilizer is in powder form, I believe they say to give it a week before measuring.

Would you say it's better to blast the infloors with higher RPM's for a shorter amount of time vs lower RPM (still high speed settings though) for a bit longer? I'm curious if getting debris suspended in the water allows it to be filtered out easier that way.

I've never used gloves or other protection, but I was thinking of wearing some for some upcoming staining repair work, thanks for the input everyone.

I'll look up his postings, thanks. In regards to infloor cleaning heads, do they generally just need 1 full rotation at high speed for maintenance cleaning?

Is there an ideal number of turnovers my pool water should get per day?

What type of gloves are recommended for handling pool acid? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input everybody in this thread already. Just curious to hear if anybody floats pucks in their saltwater pool during the winter? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Out of curiousity, why do you choose 70 as opposed to a lower number where the Intellichlor will still produce cholorine (i.e. 60)

In Phoenix, my water temps will drop below the 52 degrees needed for my Intellichlor to producine chlorine. Previous winters I just tried to stay on top of it with adding bleach here and there, but like every winter, I get lazy since the pool isn't being used and I always drop to FC 0 at some...

I find that house lighting makes it difficult on testing for pH and TA. I try to hold up a white sheet of paper, but even then it's a bit difficult since my indoor lighting is soft.

Hi, I'm getting my speedstir as we speak. I see that it has lights that supposedly allows you to view results in less than ideal lighting. How accurate do you guys find viewing results in darker areas w/ the light on for the speedstir? I find myself having to do nighttime test a lot and it's...

According to their website there are. I've never heard of them. I'll have to check out a nearby dealer

Thanks everyone. I will check it out at Lowe's next time. The pool store 2 gallons is getting up to about 14 and change after taxes. I'll see if there's a cheaper at Lowe's or Home Depot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don't they have the lesser concentrated acid? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I currently only go to the pool store to get the ~30% muriatic acid. Is that usually the best deal or is there another method of getting better pricing on acid?