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Could this be the result of friction/static causing inconsistent drops/issues with the first tests? I know i've had issues with this regarding past TA testing.

Without knowing your plumbing set up, it might be the best long term solution to install a water softener in the supply line that fills the pool. or, install as softener in a nearby building and manually fill the water as needed.

I really wish there was a definitive CSI value that creates scaling. I know to keep it under the stated .3 CSI, but it would be nice to know if scaling starts at .3 or does it truly start earlier.... possibly .2? .1? Or could it be higher at .4 or greater? I’m mainly referring to the scaling on...

Good morning! This part of Tx is in a very long drought. My CH is now at 625 (we did have an inch of rain, and had a slight improvement). I am curious if lowering my TA to 50 (or lower) is detrimental in some way? This, in order to keep the CSI in a reasonable range. How do folks manage CSI...

Welcome DD88! Good to see another Texan aboard. These are good folks on here and will do a great job taking care of your questions. As Marty noted earlier, a SWG is the way to go...in Odessa, your pool will lose quite a bit of chlorine each day in your sun exposure, especially if there is no...

After a bid of diagnosing, i have ordered a few parts (pump seal plate), but it won't be in for several days. What a pain...in the last few months, i've had to purchase a new pump motor, new SWG...now this...and my polaris 280 is on its last legs...arg! until i get my pump and subsequent SWG...

i'm only chiming in to say EXCELLENT looking water Pat. Well done!

I can attest to this as well. I've had to add CYA again this last week because I've lost 10-20ppm since June 1.

OK you chemistry experts... FC: 7.5 pH: 7.7 TA: 70 CH: 600 CYA: 50 (slowly going to 70) water temp: 84 CSI: 0.12 City Water: TA: 130-150 (depending on lake levels) CH: 150-180 I understand that TFP promotes a slightly negative CSI with a SWG. I also understand that with a SWG, pH tends to...

You want to use to calculate your CSI. I'm not familiar with pebble, however, if your CSI is too aggressive with a low TA and pH, you may cause etching. My fill water has a TA of 120, so i'm constantly battling high TA....if you're fill water is the same, it may creep back up on its own...but...

when lowering TA, use . Enter your proper info and it will give you guidance related to how much MA to add. There is also instructions in Pool School that show how it's done. I also started with a TA of over 100, and have to constantly add MA to lower pH and TA regularly, because my fill water...

Good afternoon! What method of testing are you using to check your numbers? Do you have a quality test kit that TFP recommends? http://tftestkits.net/cart.html

Thanks everyone!

Thanks for the replies! I did test my City water, and it is 175 ppm. I was assuming by lowering my pH I was causing a leaching affect from my plaster. But you both think it is fill water constantly adding CH?

Questions below. A bit of background: Before I found TFP last summer, i did not know how to test water properly (mainly used strips), i let my CSI get high enough that i had scaling in my pool, to include my SWCG. One day, i had white scale flakes coming out of my jets by the thousands...

Good morning Lannjo! Just to clarify, when you performed the OCLT, did you remove all methods of chlorination? I.E. the floating chlorine dispenser? i'm also in TX, and my pool is shaded until 1pm or so, but i am still losing approx. 2.5ppm of chlorine per day.

The easiest way i've found to 'dial in' a SWCG, is to use bleach (Walmart has liquid chlorine in their pool section: do NOT use any bleach will fillers, easy pour or anything else fancy...use liquid chlorine or just plane old bleach) according to to get my FC levels at my target level. Then...

Can you take a pic of your SWCG? if so, send it, or the make/model info. This info will help with the understanding of how much chlorine is (should be) being generated.

How many hours are you running your pump? Also, is the motor a: single, two or variable speed motor? Two speed and variable speed motors have low flow settings, which 'may' cause low flow issues with your SWCG flow switch. Generally, if the SWCG lights are all green, then your switch is likely...

Until you get your SWCG dialed in, i recommend getting some liquid chlorine (bleach) and putting 1 gal in asap. Also, it helps to have a few gallons of it (bleach) on hand for such low FC occasions. It takes a little time for the SWCG to 'catch up' when FC levels are low. Just make sure it is...

Yes sir, I did mean -0.42. I’ve not experienced what ‘corrosive to plaster’ looks like, and don’t want to damage my pool surface. Lastly, my test kit only measures pH to 8, is there a way to measure above that, so I don’t let it get too high?

First winter with TFP... FC 6 CC 0 pH 7.8 Alk 80 CYA 80 salt 3600 CH 360 water temp 40*f CSI 0.42 Question: with the 0.42 csi being ‘potentially corrosive to plaster’ should I allow the pH to rise to 8, to keep CSI on the lower end? I was going to lower it to 7.6 in the morning, but am second...

If you decide to hire it out, i recommend getting a second opinion from a (reputable) licensed plumber in the area. Sometimes, because they do this type of work on a daily basis, they can beat pool store pricing...simply because it can take them fewer hours to complete the work.

pH 7.7 TA 90 FC 7 (trying to get my SWG% and pump run times to work together a bit more) CC <.5 CH 330 CYA 70 Folks, after following advice obtained in other threads, i adjusted my TA a bit then allowed the pH to 'settle' where it would naturally settle. (Prior to that, i was adding MA daily to...

do you by chance remove it and insert that adapter? or leave it in place?

excellent. thank you sir! - - - Updated - - - Thank you!! Good to see some folks living south of the Red River on this forum!

Leaves Leaves Leaves we try our best to skim the leaves out....but there are always a few that linger. we have a 60yr old red oak tree right next to the pool. FC 5.5 CC .5 TA 80 pH 7.8 CH 360 CYA 60 i typically keep my FC around 5-6 by lowering my pump run times to 4-5 hours and SWG @ 90%. I...

Thanks AftonJeeper, i have read that section. Unfortunately, draining and acid washing is not in the budget for some time....i was hoping for a reasonable measure of success by using one of those products.

Let me start by saying that TFP has helped me get my pool chemistry right on target. pH: 7.6 (and holding for days now....which is amazing). FC: 6 CC: <.5 TA: 70 CH: 380 CYA: 50 (hoping to get this up to 60) Salt: 3600 However, before i started testing properly, (and reading this site) i let...

Until today, i've been adding 1 1/4 cup of muriatic acid (daily) to keep pH around 7.4, only because i read that it was around the same pH for human tears. I have alot of kids using the pool and wanted to cut down on the 'red eye'. if i don't raise my TA, it seems my CSI will be corrosive. do...