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A quick sketch would help immensely.

Just remember to set a timer whenever you open that drain valve. Don't want to walk away and forget and then remember after the pump ran dry.

DE filters are really good at masking algae problems. It's very likely that your "all good" chemistry is off. If your FC has dropped below the minimum level for your CYA, you probably have an algae problem that you can't see... yet. I had the same problem before I found TFP (clear water...

I cut my 24' round pool cover in half. It's much easier to deal with that way. The two halves generally sit nicely together without much movement or overlap unless there's considerable wind.

I would start by using clear primer next time around. lol 😂

Have you read through this article? https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/leak-detection/ You should use a pool lube for the pump o-ring. Did you grease the o-ring in the union before the pump suction? How does it run when your multiport valve is in bypass?

Does the problem improve immediately after backwashing? Can you be more specific? What does your latest set of tests look like?

When was the filter backwashed last? How's your water chemistry look?

First question is what are your current water chemistry results?

No, slower flow allows more temperature rise, but in less water. Changing the flow does not change the amount of heat. My suspicion is that the rating on the heater is for ideal condition and you are not operating under ideal conditions. The website for your heater says: 80* water, 80* air...

Unless the heater output is somehow related to flow, changing the flow shouldn't matter. Heat is heat.

My mistake, I flipped the fraction upside-down. I don't know enough about heat pumps to know whether this is what you should expect or not.

You have a 10,000 gallon pool, which is 88,000 lbs. of water. Your heater is 55,000BTU/hr. 1BTU raises 1 lb. of water 1*F. So you would expect a 1.6*F temperature rise per hour under ideal circumstances and 100% efficiency. You're getting 1.5*F per hour. I would say it's working just like...

Where have you read that? Like Reggie, I have to backwash and/or break down my DE filter 2-3 times per season. I see the problem: you're opening the pool too late. Much easier to open early and maintain it than open late and fight a mess.

Please post some pictures of you equipment and pad.

How are you testing your water? Did you complete the ? Do you pass an ? It's likely that you still have algae even if you can't see it.

What is making you think you need to do a deep clean? Asking because a couple of years ago before I found TFP I was in the same boat. Then I realized it was the pool chemistry that was the problem, not the fingers on my DE filter that were working precisely as intended.

I don't think you need to run at that high for so long. If it were my pool I would run for 30 minutes 2x per day at a high enough RPM to get GOOD skimming, then at a lower RPM for several hours in between and call it good. If you find you're not getting good results, change something. Without a...

Can you post a full set of chemistry test results?

There should always be a bit of undissolved powder in your sample The test ends when the sample goes clear the first time. Don't worry about it turning pink again if you let it sit - that's happens to everyone's samples. I would run the ONCL test again tonight just to be sure, but yes a 1FC...

Can you also provide some pictures from further back so we can see where all the hoses go?

Yes

There's only a few reasons to run the pump under normal conditions : 1. Mix chemicals (including chlorine generation in salt pools) 2. Skim surface 3. Vacuum 4.?? If your pump does all 3 of these to your satisfaction in 5.5 hrs per day, then let it keep doing so.

I don't think you understand what the is telling you to do. You should be dosing chlorine to reach the SLAM level for your CYA, which is read as 50, since you always round up to the next line when testing. See the chart. Re-check FC levels several times per day and add chlorine to get...

All the DE is missing the fingers in there altogether the way that this is plumbed.

Can you post a picture or two?

Don’t delay! The sooner you get your kit, the sooner your filter problem goes away.

I was you in the summer of 2019. Clear, "balanced" pool, but with a DE filter plugging continuously. TFP set me right. Get the test kit and the collective wisdom here will put you on the right path. Welcome to the club!

That's great to hear. However you're likely to see the problem repeat until all the algae is eradicated through the . The number one cause of dirty, clogged DE filters is algae. (Un)fortunately, DE filters are so good that it may not look like your pool has algae in it, but the fact that it...