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Even with near perfect chemistry, I have white build up on the tile surface. It takes muriatic acid and a pumice stone to remove. I do this twice a year.

If I could do it over again, I'd skip the glass tile.

Stairs in one corner only. No need for all four.

Pool deck is completely independent of anything about the pool. I can always be done later.

2" would work, but I would insist on 2.5" for all three. There is a trend on this site recommending no main drain. I like being able to balance the waterflow. My water at 9' deep is cooler than the 92 degrees it is on the surface.

I guarantee those cracks are thru the shell. I fixed several with carbon fiber staples during my remodel.

I would never have ledger stone in a pool.

We did dry riverbeds out of the beach pebbles, but they are only $100 a ton here.

1. No main drain. The only place I've seen pushing it is this forum. I'm glad I have one, and use it often.

The only vinyl pools around here are above ground. Even fiberglass is looked at as cheap. Funny how region sets this.

Many people including myself use a suction cleaner. I prefer it over a robot that has to be removed all the time.

I have over 3000SF of dyed and stamped concrete with cut control joints. I was tired of cleaning the dirt out of them so I grouted them. Grout will still allow for the joint work properly.

I'm in the automated liquid chlorine camp, but salt would be a close second.

White plaster = green water, grey plaster = blue water.

It all turns the color of dirt eventually. Grout, caulk, polymeric sand, when used outside always ends up the color of dirt.

Use Stonetech Impregnator Pro. Not cheap though.

Sealing outdoor stone is a waste of time unless you plan on doing at least once a year.

Terrible work. I installed my own 1" glass tile and it looks much better. I'll try to get a picture straight down it so you can see how level it should be. My 100 linear feet is level to the water with in 1/16, and no 24" section is worse than 1/32. I installed a ledger board prior to the...

I chipped all out myself. I have a Hitachi 70lb hammer and a small Dewalt. I had about 30hrs in it.

Might just be the angle, but that slide outlet looks really low compared to where the water level will be.

I've seen it when both sides of a spa are tile, especially in a spillover situation.

I had white plaster for 15 years with no staining problems. Five years ago I replastered with dark grey and it does show more variation over time, but that is part of the appeal. I agree on the glass tile. If I could go back in time, I would do regular six inch tile.

I think it is the coating they used on the back of the tiles. Some made it to the edge. I'd try a razor blade.

It will be "blue", but I think it looks green compared to blue or grey finishes.

My 1" glass tile is about 5 years old and I have no cracks or loose tiles. I installed the tile myself with modified thinset and standard grout. If I could go back and do it again, I would do with a standard 6" tile. Even keeping LSI and CSI numbers at near 0, I have to clean buildup off of...

Price point of the home is something to consider. You won't find a vinyl pool at a high end home here in the southwest.

You are not supposed to rely on the flagstone to span the skimmer. There should be structure under the flagstone. I placed 1/4" stainless steel plate on the bond beam prior to flagstone.

Just my opinion, but I wouldn't spend that kind of money on anything but a gunite pool.

I have a stenner pump with a 15 gallon tank. Best of both worlds, it is automated and no expensive parts to worry about.

I installed our 1" glass tile. No different than any other tile, just use unsanded grout.