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Your pH goes up quickly mainly because you are trying to maintain it too low. Only in a pool without CYA you need pH in the lower 7-half for chlorine efficiency reasons. In this case the HOCl concentration (which is the main sanitizing and oxidizing chlorine species) decreases by 50% from pH...

That's my guess, too. AstralPool cells that sensor at the wing nut "flow sensor" I think it just detects when the electrolysis products are building up and glow must have stopped. It may also play a role in the low salt warning. My old Hurlcon SWG (eventually bought my Fluidra and rebranded...

What's the reason why you maintain such low pH? Do you have very high CH and need tight CSI management?

4 AAAs. The PH60 is a much better meter. Even the PH20 is much better. The advantage of the PH60 over the PH20 is that you can replace the probe. So, in a couple of years you don't have to throw out the complete meter, but just replace the probe.

This would have reduced TA by about 20. Still pretty high after that. MA is usually mixed in after 30 min with the pump running, no further pH drop after that.

Yep, the PH60 is great. Storage solution is essential from my experience, since I have started using that the calibration is very stable. Calibration ideally at 7, 4 and 10, but 10 is more important than 4 with a TFP pool. If your pH is never below 7, then calibration at 4 doesn't add much. You...

Yes, this is valid. But it's important to use distilled water, not tap water. With distilled water having no chlorine, the dilution halves the chlorine, removing the interfere with the pH test. And because distilled water has pretty much no Alkalinity, it doesn't significantly change the pH of...

What is your definition of a jug? I suspect that's where we have a mismatch between what you were adding and what PoolMath thought you'd be adding.

Adding chlorine will raise pH. But the processes that "consume" FC are acidic. By the time FC is down to where it was before the chlorine addition, pH is also back down to where it started. There can be a small effect due to excess lye in the bleach. But in the meantime, pH will have risen due...

Great, then you don't have to worry about CSI being too low (only about pH being too low, this applies everywhere, especially where metal is involved, e.g. in heaters). But you still don't want CSI to be too positive, scaling can happen on every surface. Should you change to an SWG, then you...

That's not a bad place to be - apart from CYA ;) If your pH is stable, then there is nothing wrong with TA 90. If your pH tends to rise quickly, then you can reduce that a bit, but it will do that pretty much on its own each time you add acid when pH gets too high. Your CH is absolute fine...

Time to drain...

Don't be too focussed on "optimal". Post a full set of test results and we can talk you through what makes sense for you. But do be focussed on not letting FC slip too low.

Regarding cost, I'll let others chime in, I can't really speak for the US market.

I would always switch to SWG. I think that it's not just the most economical way of pool care, but also the most convenient and trouble free way. When switching, make sure to get a salt drop test and verify your salt level before adding more salt. All added chlorine turns eventually into...

As long as there is no algae present in the pool, it is possible to maintain a pool with CYA, enduring the required FC level. We don't recommend maintaining a liquid chlorine pool at these levels, because the risk is quite high to eventually drop too low with FC and algae creeps in. SLAMming...

I just had a look at the list. I couldn't find liquid chlorine (sodium hypochlorite), but there is 10% hydrochloric acid on the list. Which is very annoying for pool owners...

Ammonia and FC can basically not coexist. As long as there is ammonia, it will combine with FC into CC within minutes.

Try another scoop or two of the powder. It should be dark pink/purple, not just a bit. It's still bleaching out in the diluted sample, FC must be way higher than 14. Or make another 1:1 dilution of the 1:1 dilution.

I can see how you like the bottles. Similar to the Taylor ones that you can hold in one hand and flick open the lid with your thumb without it flying away. I do prefer this design over the Clear Choice Labs bottles with a screw on lid, and I think the Tftestkits ones are similar.

The FAS/DPD is more accurate, allows testing higher levels, and takes the subjectivity out of the test. Instead of comparing colour shades, you add and count drops until you get a transition from pink to colourless. It is considered a prerequisite to apply the TFP method and maintain the...

Have you tested CYA? Any chance that these tablets are actually Trichlor? Honestly, selling unlabelled chlorine tabs is in my eyes a "go straight to jail" card. This is bloody irresponsible and could cause a huge catastrophe.

If you had added CYA straight away, then the high FC would have been moderated sufficiently to not do any damage to equipment. That's why I suggested it.

He probably added way more than was needed. These guys don't calculate, they just dump. Now you have to add chlorine until it starts holding again before algae takes over. I would have just waited, rather than playing yo-yo.

By the way: I'd recommend to add the FAS/DPD reagents to your K1005: https://analizaragua.es/product/r-0871-c/ and https://analizaragua.es/product/r-0870-i/ The R-0003 for the CC test should be in your kit. Test instructions...

Keep in mind that each clean cycle with muriatic acid takes some of the plate coating away. And the more of the coating is gone, the more they tend to scale up. Just ride this cell for as long as it's working, with the next one try to avoid scaling as much as you can with water chemistry...

I wouldn't add that much acid in one go. The PoolMath calculations get less accurate for large changes, and small inaccuracies for example in TA have a larger impact on the result. Your pH is likely above 8.2, so that would save you probably, but I wouldn't count on it. We generally say, don't...

What was your salt level at the end of last season? I can't find any salt readings in your logs from last year.

What lowers TA is the acid, the TA decrease is directly proportional to the amount of added acid. Then you want to have pH rise back up without taking TA back up. This is done by letting carbon dioxide outgas, which raises pH, put not TA (this is in fact the only way to raise pH without raising...