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I bought the one from Salt Pool Store, I think. $400, installed about a month ago. My original Jandy 1400 lasted 9 years. I am curious to see how long the replacement brand lasts.

I ordered R0871 from Amazon on 7/9, yesterday. Original estimated delivery 7/20. Showed up today. Give it a shot you might luck out.

dndrich, I was going to order one of these to have on hand as I also have a 6 year old Jandy AP1400. I saw some reviews that were not so stellar on the generic replacement so I didn't pull the trigger yet. Glad you are having success with it. Any new issues to report from your most recent...

After poolclown's help last year diagnosing a similar issue and replacing several sensors thinking they may be bad from the factory and trying to jump them with resistors all to no avail. It turned out to be a board issue. I sent it to the gentlemen recommended here in a previous thread, got...

Some shadow and a bit of ripple from the wind and in-floor cleaner, but I can make out the main drain from shallow end patio.

That makes sense, that didn't even cross my mind. I will give it a shot once I get through this new SLAM and get the SWG online again.

I did clean it about 2 years ago, when I replaced the sensor, cleaned with a muriatic acid solution. I will try cleaning it again this time around too. I will check and see if any local pool stores can test the unit as well.

Hello everyone, I am not sure if it is due to heavy bather load, high pool water temperature, adding water and rain or not. But my normal 5.5 free chlorine reading on a daily basis took a dive to 1.5. I don't see any error lights on the SWG. Is there a way to test the unit or does a bad unit...

I was thinking the same thing. It's possible I just didn't notice the burn marks and that could have been the problem to start. I will send the board off to BP.

Turns out I noticed a burn mark right below the orange chip on the right hand side of the board. When I went to install the new temperature sensor this message was displayed "universal controller, UI FW Rev: 1.8". I am guessing the board did not like having the 10.0k ohm resistor left plugged in.

Haha. OK, I will give a try again. As a point of reference, when installing the new sensors I did let them "acclimate" to the air temperature for about 10-15 seconds. Once I saw the fault was cleared I installed. I will let it hang for sometime and run the heater as well. Stay tuned.

Understood, great information.... thank you for explaining. I plugged the 10.0k resistor in, LCD screen reads a constant 75 and the the heater fires as it should. So if I am understanding the diagnosis correctly the board is OK and I got 2 bum sensors??

I should have the 10k ohm resistor this weekend. It just dawned on me that there is also a 2 part sensor (high limit) on the plumbing on the right side near the rear of the heater. Should I be concerned about this part being bad and causing the fault? Or is the "shorted h2o sensor" fault only...

OK, I understand. I will source a 10.0K ohm resistor, plug that into the terminal block on the board and hope for 77 degrees. Thanks for your help!

Many thanks. I am not an electrician so let me double check to make sure I follow. I can plug in a resistor with a value of 9.264 to the lugs on the board, then the reading on the LCD screen should register at 80 degrees?

Allen, I just switched the heater on and the temperature read 125, immediately the screen flashed to the "shorted h2o sensor" message.

All wires seem intact. I performed the resistance test on the original sensor (submerged into 85 degree pool water) I took out and got an Ohm reading of 3.41 that reading should have been in the 8.20 range (so I am pretty sure that one is shot), I disconnected the new sensor from the board this...

Hello everyone, I searched and came up with 1 thread relating to this issue with good advice and followed it. I am now on my second sensor however. The heater is 5 years old and I first got the error message a month ago. I ordered a new sensor and replaced, immediately I got the same fault...

Turned out to be the sensor. Got one from Amazon. Newer design, easy install. Up and running with no issues.

Hello everyone. I just noticed the "no flow" message on the LCD screen. I just cleaned the sensor with a scotch brite pad, just cleaned the cell with water and muriatic acid. I hit the reset on the daughterboard and am still getting the message. I also have a add salt message. The computer...

Installed a new motor yesterday. Thankfully I was able to source one locally. Pool up and running, managed to pass my OCLT too. It is so clear it doesn't even look like there is water in it.

I thought I was in the clear. The pool looks perfect. My pump motor seized overnight. I pulled the cover off the shaft on the back and tried to rotate it but it was stuck. I will order a new motor and go kit. Any ideas what do in the next few days while it ships?

Going to test and add bleach before calling it quits for the night. Hopefully I pass the OCLT, pool looks perfect.

Gotcha. Added a gallon, back to 12. Pool is crystal clear at this point. I will be more diligent with the overnight test tonight.

Will do, I will bump FC back up to 12. Can I start to add salt to get that level up and how long after adding salt can I test for it?

I couldn't get to test early this morning so the first test at 8:45 was with sun on the pool for 2.5 hours already. Here are the numbers: FC: 8 CC: 0 Since there are no CCs, does it make sense the FC would drop 3 in 3 hours of sunlight. Meaning this is not an overnight loss of chlorine?

Marty, Yes, I added enough CYA to get me to 20 via the stocking method. I actually just got finished massaging the last 2 stockings which are nearly empty now. Here are this evening's readings as of 8:15pm. FC: 11.5 CC: 0 PH: 7.4, I also ran the hose from the filter to aerate for 2 more...