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7yrs or so, we just didn't use it. Will need to start checking my propane tank more often :D

Flipped the burners to holes up and heater working like a champ, spa temp from 66 to 84 in about 15min. Absolutely no smoke. I guess that's why we didn't use it much, it just never worked right. It was installed as part of escrow, old heater was toast. Lesson learned, don't ALWAYS put stuff...

No wider shots. Burners were never out of the unit until yesterday. One for Ripley's I guess.

I know what you guys are thinking, how could someone be this dumb? Never having done one of these before, I take lotsa pix....and have the before and after pix. Left is just after removal of burner tray, note soot and bent burners. Right is cleaned up, straightened and, yea, following DIY...

This is interesting. I replaced the burners the same way they came apart, with the holes facing down. Seemed odd to me at the time. I take it the burner holes should be facing up - toward the exchanger. I had everything except the exchanger removed for the powerwashing. Next time I'll...

Rheem/Raypak P-266a-EP-C, installed Dec2012. Good physical condition, no rusting evident. The burner tubes should be installed with the holes up or down? No airflow restriction.

I'm at about 700ft so should be good unless I got the wrong set of orifices. There are 5 part numbers, I assume I have #57? Are they marked? If the orifices are correct and there is unrestricted airflow, then perhaps my propane regulator needs checked/adjusted?

Appreciate you guys giving me a hand with this. On pg 36 it says yellow flame indicates restricted airflow or incorrect orifice. Airflow is not restricted. Where is this orifice? Is it something supposed to be in the propane supply line? Also, I've checked the whole manual, can't find...

I tried it within an hour or so of pressure washing and didn't pull it. Would that explain the yellow flame? Is there a way to troubleshoot the flame sensor?

Pretty open, redwood fence about 1ft away.

Video of the flame, with one cycle.

minor smoking, which surprised me given that I pressure washed until water leaving the exchanger area was clean

Pulled the burner tray, cleaned the burner tubes, moderate soot. Nozzles looked OK. Pressure washed the heat exchanger from above and below. Lotsa soot. Put it back together, now the heater cycles. Flame looks good. Checked pressure switch, seems to be operating normally. Suggestions?

Very similar to pic. Smoke was exiting vents and top of unit. I had previously wire meshed all the larger openings, to rat proof the unit (we live in the middle of an avocado grove), so don't think I have a critter issue. I'll start disassembling tomorrow.

About 8yrs old, hasn't been run for a couple years. Fired up today and looked like a fireplace chimney. It did heat the water, but slowly. From reading through similar posts, sounds like I need to remove the burner tray, check nozzles, then pressure wash heat exchanger. Does this sound about...

Recent DIY repair of cracked elbow on spa return line, described here. Had to saw out section of pool decking to access. Below is pic of pool & decking area, a sunken area surrounded by a couple courses of adobe brick. On the decking closeup it appears the surface has random "divots" for lack of...

Don't have any way to empirically measure the change in back pressure, but the circ pump, with a little priming, started right up and flow seems normal. I was losing more sleep when I couldn't run the circ pump...the nightmare of waking up to an algeafest ;). Left side (pic) was first cut. Have...

Well to close this out, I ended up doing the 4 90s. Yea, I know, more back pressure and more joints to leak. The slip on top was to fine tune the span. Wasn't room for the slide repair coupling, the 1 1/2" is HUGE. Estimates I got for doing this soup to nuts varied from 2K to 2.5K. Even...

Good suggestion. It's hard to see in pic, but the lines are really packed together. Those slide repair couplers are pretty wide at the oring end so they may either not fit or put some side stress on adjacent lines. One trick a local pool fixer suggested was to heat blanket the PVC and bend it...

No ability to pump to waste.

One skimmer, 2 spa returns, 3 pool returns, 3way valves on both circ and jet (spa) pumps. Main drain on both pool and spa, with secondary safety drain on spa. Don't know specifics on plumbing, pool was built before we bought home. I could use the 3 ways to isolate pool/spa and narrow which...

Not sure how to determine which line it is???

Found the leak, cracked 1 1/2" pvc 45 elbow. Slow leak without pump, heavier with pump. How would you folks tackle this? Will I have to drain the pool to allow a dry repair?