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Did the pH meter thing for a year or so, gave it up....if it is always calibrated perfectly, cleaned, stored properly, it will work. My problem was the cost of calibration, storage, cleaning far exceeded what was needed using TF100 or K-2006c test kit.

I am in a similar situation, salt level around 4800, CH 1000...I would guess most people using liquid chlorine for a few years have no idea what their salt level is.

I use about 2 times as much acid in summer months vs winter months to keep pH 7.7-7.8 range.

With a CYA of 40 and in a non-SWG Pool, recommendation is FC 5-7 with a min of 3

I tell my young great grandchildren, if they pee in the pool, they will turn green, pool water stays nice and blue.

Yes...Hardness is 200, and their TA is 100

I thought that, even without running it rises about the same.

keep it at 50-60

I did a re-plaster in March 2015 and still fight rising pH at almost same rate for 2 years. This past weekend added Boric Acid and will see if that works a bit better.

I sit at the kitchen table to test, rinse at the sink, and I even wipe tube clean and dry afterwards, just me....I have also sat outside, rinsed in pool water, just move to next test and find No difference.

Buy the Taylor 'Standard' keeps your skills sharp in testing & accuracy.

sounds good, thanks

I always test pH first, I will leave it sit go on to test FC, then rince both tubes.....I always notice that the pH has risen say to 7.8 after initial test of 7.6 within just a couple of minutes....is this normal?

Patrick_B has got you covered, didn't notice his post Don't stop at 30 drops, keep going until clear...if using 10ml multiply by .5

Re: PH options Just my personal experience using a Hanna Digital pH tester...the care needed to have an accurate test is excessive, the probe needs constant cleaning, constant calibration, constant proper pH storage...and how you calibrate and to what you calibrate can be up to .3-.5 off. I...

Donldson...thank you kindly, will follow your suggestions

Yes, I am referring to granular....thanks I will go with the granular Does the granular dissolve quickly and should it be broadcast across pool and brushed?

Adding borates using boric acid, should I use crystals or powder?

what pooldv said

I have tried several of the so-called pen style and they are more trouble, time & money and they will keep you guessing. The care needed for storage solution, calibration solution, calibration itself...I keep going back to the Taylor testing and find if you test in the proper lighting as should...

At the top of the page click on 'Pool Math' gives you all the recommended numbers for your pool.

What you need in a real test kit (see recommended) and do your own tests, then post the numbers, including CYA

First welcome and hope you would reconsider the TFP way. Testing and caring for your own pool is what this site is all about. Save money, stay out of the pool stores and know that you have a clean and safe pool.

I had the opportunity to spend a couple of hours with Greg Garrett back in March of this year. I had an issue with my pool, and the builder contacted Greg to look at the pool and get his expert opinion, his credentials speak for themselves....I will also add that Greg used Taylor reagents &...

I test every day, but more importantly is knowing how much chlorine you use daily. I add chlorine every single day.

I would rather have my test kit tell me what I need to add....simple, accurate, and cheap

Just my 2 cents here....I would get my face down there on a tile and see could it be 'etched' into the tile? If so raise up water level to that line, you mentioned when wet does not show.

That works but remember when something like your CH goes up or the water temp changes you have to tweak things....the 0 to -.3 is not set in concrete, you just have to be aware of what is changing and how fast it changes so you can adjust. and yes the CSI works well.

Looks about right, you can play with the numbers to see what you can tweak, to stay in that 0 to -.3 range

With CYA of 160 you will need to drain 75% of the water to get the CYA to 40