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I'm glad it worked out for you. However, I can't take credit for the design. I copied someone else's idea right here on TFP. Can't remember who, but they get all the credit. ;)

Oly, you are definitely a candidate for adding borates. Your pH is drifting high very quickly and in the cell the pH is even higher. I added borates this season to my pool and my friend's as well. She was having all kinds of scaling issues last year, but most of that was due to her high CH...

Update: So, I went to my friend's house to change the temp jumper setting, but when I got there, I noticed the unit working.:scratch: As I cycled through the menu, the temp reading was practically right on this time. As I got to the salinity reading, it was in the low 3200's. I did notice...

Divin' Dave, Were you able to resolve your issues? One other thing you didn't mention is your water temp on the unit. A couple of people have commented that if the temp reading is off, it can affect the salinity reading. If that is the case, you can change a jumper on the mainboard that...

Thanks MacGyver, that helps a lot. I definitely remember how heavy that thing is when I did the original installation.

More than a couple of times from the looks of his pic above.:mrgreen:

Thanks will give it a try on Monday. Is it easy to remove the cover to get to the mainboard? For now, I loaded her up with 6ppm of liquid chlorine for the weekend. Her FC was still only at 5. That's a definite thumbs up to running the FC a little 'hot' daily.

I do have a flow switch. From ajw22's link above, it looks like the flow switch with the thinner wire is connected to a square headed thread. My flow switch has the hexagonal threaded head like the 2nd one in the pic. However, looking at the wire, it doesn't appear very thick. I can't...

In March of 2020, I bought two RJ45+ SWGs for my pool and a friend of mine. I installed them both and have been taking care of both pools. Mine has been a dream. I haven't had even a single issue. Went all season in '20 without having to clean the unit even once. On the other hand, my...

I say go for the 10% liquid chlorine that you can get at Walmart, Home Depot, or Lowes. Just make sure the date on the box isn't over 4 months old. It's coded as 21XXX where XXX is the day of the year (1-365) produced in 2021. Bleach is ok, but they seem to be following Clorox's lead by...

I agree with Maddie above. The best thing you did was order the TF-100 before getting too far in the hole. If you follow the TFPC protocols, you'll find that you won't be buying anything other than liquid chlorine and muriatic acid. No "No More Problems" or "Pool Perfect" potions that cost a...

The sad part is if the OP's water isn't even cloudy and looks good, the SLAM could take very little time to complete. Now he's stuck with almost 4k worth of SWGs and he can't even confirm if they are in fact in good working order. I suspect they are fine when you consider how much FC he lost...

The salt from a water softener is only used to clean the resin beads in the softener unit. It does not end up in the softened water. It just helps the resin beads stay clean by flushing all the calcium and magnesium ions off of them and to a drain. Then the tank is rinsed to a drain so it's...

Yes, you need a SLAM. A SLAM is different that just shocking the pool. Shocking may clear your pool, but it may not kill everything. SLAM is a process where you bring you FC up to shock level (20ppm for you) and keep it there until you pass the 3 criteria to end the SLAM. If your pool is...

Check your CYA level with your TF-100 test kit. It should be in the 30-50ppm range. If it's there, stick to liquid chlorine exclusively. Tablets raise the CYA every time you use them and it stays in the water and builds and builds. They are not a great way to chlorinate over the long haul...

Use the 10mL sample. Counting FC at .2 per drop is overkill for our purposes because we are not in the 1 to 2ppm range most of the time under normal circumstances. 1 drop = .5ppm is close enough for our purposes and will save on reagent drops. So, just use a 10mL sample, one heaping spoonful...

When I plug in your #'s, I get -0.28. Check your calculations again. Those appear to be perfect.

Everything looks good, but I'd suggest running your FC no lower than your target level. It won't hurt a thing and could prevent an issue if you have a power outage or even a heavy bather load day because of a party. Running the FC a little "hot" is much better than the alternative and gives...

Draining half your water and refilling will drain half your CYA. With that being said, if your CYA is 65 (we round that up to 70), you only need to drain a smaller portion. Maybe 20%, especially if you live in a hot climate. I know plenty of people that live in Texas on this forum run their...

The OTO test is pointless if you have the FAS-DPD test. It might take an extra 30 seconds to do both the powder and then the drops. BIG DEAL! The Taylor K2006C kit doesn't even come with an OTO test. That shows you how important it is.

That is an OTO chorine test which is not very accurate. It basically tells you if you have any chlorine in the pool or not. It also only gives you a TC (total chlorine) reading which is pretty useless. You need a FC reading which is only obtained with a FAS-DPD chlorine test, where you add a...

For storage, make sure those covers are not in the sun when you have them on that wall. The sun will destroy them. If you have to, add a tarp over the top, that will help some. I store mine on my fence on my side yard. It only gets sun until about noon and then it's in the shade the rest...

You can control the CSI by keeping pH and TA on the low side. Those two plus CH are the 3 most dominant factors in controlling CSI. If you can get your TA down in the 60-70 range, that would put your CSI in the -0.3 to -0.2 range. That should help. Just be aware that pools with SWGs tend to...

Recheck your CYA. If it's still 30, try adding some granular CYA powder in a sock to get it up to 50. That will slow down the FC burn off some.

Each gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your FC by 2ppm in your 50k pool. I agree with the others. I would add 4 or 5 gallons to get your FC up to the 8 to 10ppm range and then run your OCLT. Make sure the SWG is off and remove any pucks from your chlorinator. This will give you a...

Like others have said, using tablets in a floater as your daily means of chlorination is a recipe for disaster. Those tablets contain half chlorine and half stabilizer (CYA). The chlorine gets used up but the stabilizer remains in the pool and builds and builds as you add more tablets until...

That might work. Rolling it up would be no problem. You may have an issue unrolling such a long piece, although if you put that piece back on first, you won't have the other covers interfering if it doesn't unroll very easily.

I agree with Bperry, using pucks won't do anything for you except continue to raise your CYA. Liquid chlorine would work fine. There's no reason why you should wait if you want to get a SWG except maybe a chance that the prices will come down a little in the near future, but I wouldn't bet on it.

If you don't want to have to pivot the cover 90 degrees, there might be another option available. You could use 1 extra 10' pole with a coupler on the end of it and simply fit the coupler over the end of the pipe where the cover begins. Don't ram it in there super tight or else you'll have...

Turn your pump off and then just loosen the two union collars around the SWG. When you pull out the cell, some water will come out, maybe a couple of gallons worth. No big deal. After you inspect the cell and put it back in line, tighten the two union rings and open your filter's air bleeder...