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70

Yes, I bought it from duda diesel.

I was lowering my TA with MA and aeration over the past few weeks. It seemed to settle into a stable 70. Then, I added boric acid in 3 increments to get to 50ppm. My understanding is that borates shouldn't really raise your TA. I haven't added anything other than that since it was stable at 70...

Ok. It was rather new plaster (~1 year old) when this was happening. So perhaps that was it. In theory, what can happen if you don't allow the CC and CO2 to off gas?

I've tried scouring for all the answers I could find about how a pool cover would affect chemistry but still have a few lingering questions. It seems that a cover will generally reduce FC loss from UV. Additionally, it should slow pH rise since it cannot off gas CO2. Both of these things...

Is it possible to take a sample of water into a jar and put it into a closet (or somewhere dark) for 8 hours to simulate an OCLT. Would the results tell you anything?

So this says to circulate the pump on high for the duration of treatment. But instead you are saying I should start draining during treatment? That's where I'm confused.

Is there a thread or link with specific instructions? Is simply turning off the pump during treatment enough to protect the heater copper core? Or do I simultaneously drain while using jack's #2?

Just got my stain ID kit and it is indeed copper. I know that jacks requires a heater bypass, but does the zero alkalinity test also require this? I don't have a bypass but am reaching out to my builder to get it installed.

Are there any options to clean it if I drain it first? I ordered the stain ID kit to try and confirm what it is.

Is the Zero Alkalinity Acid Treatment an option here?

When you say take the system offline, does this just means turning off the pump? I've never taken the cartridge out so I'll try and figure that out tomorrow. The tabs were in a floater. To be honest, chemistry was quite neglected for periods of time. PB came once a week but did not come...

The system in the front is for the spa. It was previously using the pucks pictured below but I have switched it over to LC.

Yes

This is the spa with the stain and the lighter picture is the pool. The pool looks the same as the day it was built (about 2 years ago)

I haven't but it's possible the PB did. I also did a partial refill before the slam because the CYA was over 100 due to pucks. I got it down to 40 before starting to slam. I've never seen pH drop off a cliff but it was always on the high side (8+)

I have a plaster pool and spa that both were initially the same color. The spa developed a blue green stain. I am in the middle of slamming it because I assumed this was an algae stain. I read more about it and tried both the trichlor pucks test and the vitamin c test. Neither removed or...

Yes, the intent is to have 2 separate IC units. I'm not sure what personality but it shows this:

Thanks. PB was using trichlor pucks but I've decided to take matters into my own hands and am now using LC until I can get a SWG. And noted on the GFCI. I will get that checked out.

It's an intellicenter control center

I do have a spa cover, but I don't think I plan on using it except in the winter and when there is heavy leaves/pollen falling. It is currently set to circulate 24/7 at about 35 gpm.

I have a ~1000 gallon spa that is currently on chlorine. When I asked about converting it over to salt, PB stated that he wasn't sure if it was possible because the IC20 might over chlorinate. Is this the case? I'd like to stick with Pentair since everything else I have is as well, but I'm...