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This seems to be the only resolution I can find. "It came back" Except mine went off and never came back...

Yes it still works from the panel but my panel is not easily accessible. It just looks like this in the app, and I have tried different rs845 connections from the chlorinator to the main board.

@matthanna Mine is driving me crazy. Mine went down a few months back and has never reappeared. I really need it to work as I have separate programs for the pool and spa. I have cycled on/off and reseated the connection multiple times. Has anyone ever had the board replaced?

Anyone else have any idea what that spot could be? I rubbed some absorbic acid via vitamin c and it didnt do anything.

Hi Everyone, My pool is relatively new (9months) and something happened to my aqua link last week. It froze up and then it basically turned off my swcg for 1-3 days (not sure) and when I checked the cl level I was at basically zero. I boosted the pool running the swcg for 100% at 24 hours and...

That is exactly what I did. I will take a picture when I go button things up. Thanks for your help.

Hd didnt have the breaker i needed but i wired power to that aux and everything works now. I am going to order the relay but in the meantime at least i got it to do what i need.

Thats exactly what I thought. In reality

When my pool was built all of my lights were wired onto one relay. I have 12 feet of sheer deescent led waterfalls and want to be able to turn them off/on separately from the pool/spa lights. I purchased a tork tpx300 and mock connected everything yesterday but when flipping on the lights in the...

That is great thank you.

Hello, This is probably an easy question, but would I be able to put a JVA 2444 on this valve and use it to open/close the bubbler? I either want it fully on or fully off so I dont really want a smart JVA. I just wanted to make sure this would work before purchasing and hooking it up. Also...

I have a swg. I think it is in my signature.

Based on this picture it seems that I need the STK0135 and a check valve plumbed after the STK0135 on the water exit side before the bypass connection. The sad thing is my PB has built about 50 similar pools in my community and I can guarantee no one knows about this.

I read that before when I initially tried to figure this out. For the time being is that valve positioned good when not using the heater? Would this be a good place for the check valve?

Thank you. Last question on this: 1. When the heater is not in operation should I leave it positioned to block the flow to the heater or should i leave it in the position in the attached picture?

One question on this. Does this mean that while heating only I need to keep it between 30/70 GPM and then after I can turn it back up to let the Venturis bubble a little (because my air blower is insane) or does that mean that while the Aquacal is having water sent to it I cant exceed 70 GPM...

Thank you both. I added the pool details to my signature (need to add the robot). It was cold (75*) here in Florida last night and I was trying to heat the spa. I know the rest of my valves pretty well, but this was the first time I have touched the heater since the pool was built. The PB just...

I tried run run the heater with it wide open but it didnt seem to be getting enough flow, when I tried it closed, the pressure in the filter went up a fair bit. In the end I compromised and set it to 65/35 heater to bypass. Should I just send it all to the heater? Thank you and happy thanksgiving!🦃

Awesome. That solved it. If anyone finds this thread in the future, go to your pump and select the third dip switch and turn it to "ON'. The dip switches are located under the rear cover with a center screw in it.