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And here's the temperature controller mounted on the side.

Not sure why it is around here but the cheapest used spa is not cheap. Plus I really wanted a wooden hot tub and there's no used ones. I could of course clad a used one in wood if I could find one. Here's the only pic I have attached. Even if I fixed up a used spa I'd likely have to buy a spa...

Hot tub

I've found a used jetpack 941100 pack but it doesn't have a topside controller. Is it possible to make the pump work without the topside? I'm assuming it has its own on off switch. It does have a separate Johnson a419 controller mounted on the side of the pak but it's a separate controller...

I know you're supposed to use clear cedar but they are hard to find. If you use knotty cedar, what are the chances that one of the knots blows out? I assume if it did you can just plug it with another piece of wood that swells? Or put some water seal on them?

Is it possible to build a wood hot tub out of pine or spruce? I've only ever seen cedar used but it's difficult to find around here for a decent price

So, it would take about 3 days to heat up. After that I assume they maintain temperature with a cover fairly easily? Is there a calculation for heat loss or estimate say on the really cold days? I assume your heart calculation above is at reasonable temperatures?

The ones I've seen are 4.5kW heaters, only need one 240v circuit and a very 120 for the pump. I'll check with your calculation, thanks.

No, they're the air difference ones, they are a stand alone unit. They don't work much below -20 Celsius but until that point they're still pumping out heat. No coil in the ground.

I'm not sure about heat pumps, I assumed it was resistive. We do use heat pumps here for heat in houses that work below -20 Celsius but not sure if the same could be used for hot tubs.

I'm thinking 1,000 gal, maybe 2,000 (2' x 8') Electric heat. Will be covered whilst kept hot. Maybe kept hot for a week then off until next use maybe a free weeks later (would need a heater to prevent complete freezing).

I am thinking of making an 8 person diy hot tub for use in the winter. However, at our location it can sometimes get to -20 Celsius at night, -10 during the day. What size heater would I need to maintain a good hot tub temperature in those conditions?

FC 7.8 TC 9 Cyk 42 I have shocked multiple times now increasing to 16fc each time. No matter what I do, I cannot get the difference between FC and TC to be less than 0.5 The water has been crystal clear for days now. Any ideas what to do?

When I open the air purge valve on my pump, it seems to just let more air into the pipes that I can't get rid of. The only way to get it running is to open the lid, fill with water as a prime, close and start. If there's ever a tiny bit of air left, I can't seem to purge it. Could it be a height...

Do you think shallow pools have their chlorine bleached and evaporated quicker then a deep big pool? Wondering if that's why my FC is disappearing so quickly. The water's clear so seems unlikely to be bacteria or algae.

By the way, as cya gets higher you have to add more chlorine to be effective. Does this mean the safe level of chlorine to swim in goes up as well? If not, why does it stay consistent at a safe level of 10 or below. Is it because total chlorine is just as irritant to skin with or without cya?

Yeah I have to drain to the nearest drain in the alley and connect up the sump. it's quicker to add chlorine and maintain

Yeah I have to drain to the nearest drain in the alley and connect up the sump. it's quicker to add chlorine and maintain

I raised to 16. That was slamming it :) I have a dpd kit. Should I test again this morning?

Ever since I put the filter in, I'm getting severe FC loss on sunny days (probably the small pool gets more bleaching?) I shocked to 16fc, cya=40 The next even it was back down at 0.2fc, TC 0.57 Should I be adding chlorine twice a day for a pool this size and is it worth increasing cya more?

Shocked lastnight. 10ppm this morning. Tonight is 6.5 FC but TC still 7.25 meaning cc of 0.75 (reduced slightly) Shock again?

Level was already at 7.2 though. Should the cc be over 1 even at that high level of FC?

Haven't added any cya through powder, it's got to 15 from chlorine tablets. Measured with a digital kit and tablet

Is shock of 10ppm enough? I've read somewhere I should be doing 15xcc level

Cya 15 FC 7.2 TC 8.5 400 gallon kiddie pool. Looks clear but no filtration. I'm shocking it tonight up to 10 FC since one of our kids had an accident in the water :) I cleaned everything up but I don't have filtration other than a net. Without filtration will the CC always climb or will...

Thanks. I am finding that the chlorine tablets are overchlorinating my pool. It's only 2500 gallons and the tablets do 5000 gallons each. Can I just cut the tablets in half?

Is it necessary to slam a small pool when filling with tap water (residential)? Or can you just raise it to 4ppm or whatever?

I'm basically worried that I could get a reading saying I have good chlorine levels when in fact I have zero FC and it's all CC. Why is CC near zero in an outdoor pool?