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I have the new pump on standby in the garage now. Question: if the old pump on high is no longer making a bad noise, but is running hotter than usual, should I wait for it to quit all together, or just go ahead and replace? I want to get as much mileage out of the old one I can.

Yep will do. Thanks for the video.

Pressure is fine on high and low so eliminated suction or blockage I believe. Some research leads me to believe the rattle is either debris or broken part of the impeller or something and not bearings. Thoughts are appreciated. See video below.

Yeah, I just got the Puritech for $48 for 25lb.

I have a salt water cell that creates the chlorine; plus I monitor the chlorine ever few days. I can just turn that up if I need to. I do have one correction...when I go back and look at the 25lb cyanuric acid granuals I purchased 3 years ago, it was about what 25 lbs costs now (I paid $100)...

I should clarify. What I mean is that I'll see the practical effect on the pool; not the chemical specs necessarily. I am fully aware this limits the chlorine life, but so be it. I am not made of money.

Ok maybe not $125, but not that far off! The ones I bought last time were out of stock so the ones below are replacements.

To answer the question whether CYA is a necessary evil; I'm about to find out. Chlorine is necessary as well as balanced pH. SW cell generates my chlorine; I buy the muriatic acid for lowering pH. I only add salt when needed which helps if chlorine is low due to burnoff. I plan to keep the...

Understood. After pricing the filter cleaning solutions, I think I'll stick with the entire replacement of the cartridges since that is a 100% guarantee of no remaining contaminants. My sense is a cleaning solution may get a lot of the dirt out, but some will likely remain, reducing the time...

I have a cartridge filter and after spending hours trying to clean those filters using a gentle detergent spray, I opted to just toss them each year and buy new ones for about $125 for the package of 4. I change them in less than 20 minutes and life is good. Could be me, but I have many other...

I plan to use a hacksaw to remove the heads of the bolts that are rusted and then slide off the manifold since the bolts only screw into the heater and not into the actual manifold itself so if I remove the good bolts, then saw off the heads of the rusted ones, it should slide right off for me...

I removed some and no water came out. Probably the heat exchanger as stated above.

Thanks. I'm going to replace the manifold with the 10 bolts and do some checking to see what is rusting out beyond that. In the meantime, I have to drill and use a screw removal bit to get 5 of the 10 bolts out. Lots of fun. I'll report back as this develops. Also, regarding the pool...

Here are some more photos. This unit was rusty like this when we bought the house 3 years ago, so this is more of the same. It may have a slow leak or it is the humidity (we are in North Houston) and between that and the saltwater, and possibly a small leak, it is rusting. I would like to...

I have a SW pool and evidently the saltiness of the water rusted out the contacts for the HLS on my Max E Therm SR400NA heater. I replaced the HLS, added new sliding L shaped connectors, etc.... My question is how to avoid the rusting in the future? Perhaps I need to cover it with a rubber...

So I have a portable volleyball net setup with bases on either side of the pool that are not anchored to the pool deck in any way. The idea is you fill up the bases with water and that provides weight to relatively keep them stable. Well, after a while, they leak water and they lighten up and...

See this post for background. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/polaris-quattro-sport-side-pressure-cleaner-drive-shaft-repair-and-fix.283053/#post-2489837 Does anyone know a good plastic adhesive that will hold in saltwater under torque to fix my driveshaft? Epoxy? Thanks.

I have a Polaris Quattro Sport and I have messed around with it a bit (replaced drive shaft, etc...). If the drive shaft was broken and it is doing the exact same thing before and after, that's interesting. I say this because I had a broken drive shaft and the symptom was one of the turbines...

If you think you are rather handy and can figure things out, I highly recommend, when you begin having trouble with your cleaner (probably side pressure cleaners may be best for this task), buy a nonworking model off Ebay for really cheap and use it for spare parts. This is probably an approach...

See this thread. Was able to fix as per the last post in this thread. So thankful for this forum and YT! Probably saved me $500-$1000. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/prologic-check-system-no-cell-power-2-error.178022/

You don't need my agreement here, but I agree that the titration approach is much more reliable.

Had it since April 2021 so over 2 years and well out of warranty. I recommend these for the ease of working on. I purchased a nonworking model off Ebay for parts for $100 and it was WELL WORTH IT! I could even fix that one for cheap and have a backup. To me, the most annoying design flaw is...

Update....drive shaft appears to work fine with glue job. We'll monitor to see how long it holds. After opening this one up, IMO, anyone can repair a number of things on these....they are super easy to work on. I consider this a successful repair.

ok so it was the drive shaft so you can see below I am attempting to gorilla glue it back. I have a parts only sport in the way to me off Ebay that will have a good drive shafts hopefully but figured what’s the harm trying to glue this one? BTW, note that the area that it broke is right where...