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I successfully repaired freeze damage that cracked my IC60 using Plast-aid. It bonds extremely well with PVC, and it's unbelievably strong. Waterproof Plastic Repair Kits Fixes cracked ABS PVC Acrylic Wood More

They are fittings that return the water from the equipment pad back to the pool

Do you have a CC reading? 0 FC and CYA combined with low pH may suggest ammonia. https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Ammonia

You can type in any number in the "Target Level" window. PoolMath is a calculator. Chlorine and pH management are two different things. Also, don't use dry acid. Use muriatic acid instead. While you're waiting for your TF-100...

3' is extremely shallow. I'd recommend 4' for the shallow end. Get the IntelliFlo3 Get a robot. I wouldn't recommend an IFCS. Adds a lot of cost, complexity, and potential failure points to your pool. A robot will clean much better at a tiny fraction of the price. Make sure they all point...

Add that to your signature when you have a minute.

Yes. Do you have a saltwater chlorine generator (SWCG)? When it's generating chlorine, one of the byproducts is hydrogen gas which can be seen as small bubbles coming from the returns.

You would have high CC and low pH. Your test results don't suggest ammonia. You can do both, no need to wait. Once your pool can hold FC, add 30 ppm CYA. Follow the SLAM instructions carefully and completely: https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2018/12/12/slam-shock-level-and-maintain/

A consistent background is key. I prefer a backlit background. To get a consistent backlight, hold the block in front of your computer monitor with a blank white screen displayed (I use Google's homepage). Also, try holding the block sideways or upside down. Sometimes that helps distinguish...

Are you trying to take advantage of TOU rates? You might be able to operate 24/7 for negligible cost. However, California may have very high electric rates. What are you paying per kWh?

Do you have automation? Fill out your signature when you have a minute. Rheem/Raypak and AquaCal make good heat pumps, although you'd be fine with most major brands as well.

With some experience, you should be able to determine pH within 0.1 or 0.2, which is plenty of precision for our purposes.

Try those techniques and I think you'll have better results. Consistent and uniform backlighting from my computer monitor makes the test easy.

That's the strongest MA that's commonly available. $10/bottle is the normal price (used to be much cheaper a couple years ago). PoolMath --> "Effects of Adding" --> "31.45% (20° Be) Muriatic Acid" For a 28k gallon pool, each gallon of MA will reduce pH by 1.1 and lower TA by 18...

A consistent background is key. I prefer a backlit background. To get a consistent backlight, hold the block in front of your computer monitor with a blank white screen displayed (I use Google's homepage). Also, try holding the block sideways or upside down. Sometimes that helps distinguish...

Given your fill water has CH 125, I'd add just a little calcium now to take your CH to 250. Over the course of the summer, fill water and evaporation will slowly increase your CH level. TA (and subsequent pH) increase due to fill water is easily managed with MA.

You're looking good! TA of 50 is perfectly fine. Once you pass the OCLT and then bump up your CYA, you'll be set for summer.

What's the TA and CH of your fill water? Those are perfect. Remember to leave the SWCG off for at least 24 hours when you add the salt so it can mix evenly.

I think every heater or heat pump should have one. All it takes is a 3-way diverter and a check valve. It's very easy to add during initial construction, and shouldn't be hard to retrofit on most equipment pads. Can you post pictures of your equipment from different angles?

Hard to tell from the zoomed in picture, but it appears to be between your pump and filter. If so, it gives you the ability to vacuum to waste (attach a hose to the barbed fitting) or quickly pump water out of your pool.

How are you measuring salt? (You should be using a K-1766.)

110 isn't that bad. (We have TA 330 in our area.) Make sure you meet all the SLAM exit criteria before stopping a SLAM. Don't add CYA until that's done. Don't add baking soda (at least for now). For the TA test, are you continuing to add drops until there's no further color change? We...

For the TA test, are you adding drops until there is no further color change? PoolMath is just a calculator. It's important to not blindly follow it. You're adding too much MA (stop adding acid). See where your pH stabilizes.

Another great option for our Texas climate is a salt water chlorine generator (SWCG). It's by far the cheapest, easiest, and most convenient way to chlorinate. There's upfront cost, but over time it's the least expensive method. With the tools and knowledge you gain here, you'll never again...

Your fill water has plenty of CH unless you have a water softener on your fill line. CH of 300 is great for your location. What model test kit do you have? (Add it to your signature.)

What test kit are you using? For the TA test, are you continuing to add drops until there's no further color change? Your TA is reasonable, and TA is the least important variable in your water chemistry. You don't need to make a dedicated effort to lower your TA. Manage your pH with MA, and...

How are you testing? Fill out your signature when you have a minute.

Two additional techniques for the pH test: 1. Try holding the block sideways or upside down. Sometimes that helps distinguish colors better. I also use two old hotel keycards to mask off areas and narrow down my decision. 2. To get a consistent backlight, hold the block in front of your...

What model test kit are you using?

What model test kit are you using? PoolMath is just a calculator. Don't blindly do what it tells you. You need to have an understanding of pool chemistry, then use PoolMath to help with the calculations. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2018/12/12/abcs-of-pool-water-chemistry/...