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True, the parts are more. But look at my plumbing there. If I replace the valve then I'm in for all-new plumbing from the spa, cleaner, and skimmer returns through to the pump, including a second diverter valve. I'd prefer to just buy a new valve and toss away the body.

Thanks, was thinking maybe similar. Is there an easy way to find the size/model of the diverter valve? I'd like to get the replacement parts before I open it, so that I don't have to do it twice.

Here are some pics. I included a pic of the skimmer basket to show this clue... with the spa filled and the pump turned off, the flow is all out of the skimmer and into the pool, strong enough to displace the basket. There is no flow into the pool on the return side as the spa drains out.

Came back home yesterday after a 5-day Thanksgiving trip to find my pool over-filled with water and my elevated spa completely empty. Everything was normal (of course) when I left on Monday. I read several threads about spas draining in this way, and they mostly describe a failing check valve...

Looks nice. Brighter than my 200W halogen ever was, though my system splits the light 6-ways.

Well, yes and no. The robot is working more-or-less as it should now. But I didn't do anything definitive to get it to work. I did use the coarse filters for several months, and with the robot working well enough, I put the fine filters back in to see if that would cause the problem to...

I want to replace my old Fiberstars fiberoptic system with LEDs. The Pool Store offers a house-brand system. It seems like a value when compared with an SR Smith PoolLux system. Has anyone tried it...

Did you check the calibration of the thermocouple? I had a similar-sounding problem a while back. Spa would not heat up above 95 or so, but the water temperature was reading 104 on my controller. Basically, this water temp sensor was reading higher than the actual water temp and preventing...

Over the weekend I took the robot apart to see if I could find anything obvious. I removed the motor unit but could not open it. In doing so I found a small stick stuck underneath the metal plate on the motor's top cover. Plugged it in and ran it that way. It went through its cycle and...

Yes, it really didn't make much of a difference, unfortunately.

Worth a try!

Hi Jim, Thanks, I'll check that review out. Hoping I don't have to drop a grand on a new robot at this juncture. It will not climb the wall backward, but they aren't supposed to. I can drive it manually forward and get it to climb, no problem. But put it in automatic cleaning cycle and it...

Hi all, I think my Active 30's behavior is somewhat akin to the below thread. The video by the OP looks just like mine. It starts up normally, but then will only move backward in increments of around a foot, then pauses for a moment. It repeats this cycle until it pushes itself against a...

Woot! Bubbles! It finally worked. I guess the breaker was the culprit all along, though I think the pump needed to be rebuilt and likely was the root cause of the failure originally. Thanks very much for your help, @Ahultin ! And for anyone searching for pump rebuild info: The motor...

In the above, I was measuring voltage across the switch when it was off. So on the right side one, with the blue wires, when the switch was off I measured 240V. On the lefthand switch, with the red wires, the voltage was 35V with the switch off. Very odd. But I think I did find the issue...

They are both single-pole. The left one for example has 2 red wires and one green ground. Nothing on it's left side. I didn't get a chance to troubleshoot today. Will try tomorrow.

I think 3, but it's hard to tell because the labels are cryptic. One says filter pump, and there are 2 that say booster pump. Today I disconnected the white wires at the Water Witch and capped them with wire nuts. So the Water Witch is out of the circuit now. no change to the voltages. Then...

+1 to this and to checking the switch. Will do and report back. Though I believe that switch also controls the purple wires that lead into the block by the yellow ones... this is for the slide pump and it does have 240.

Sorry, I buried the answer in the above post. The white ones seem to lead to the Water Witch. The red ones lead down a conduit to a toggle switch, and that switch kills the power to the pump. So I think the red ones ultimately lead to the breaker.

Here are some more pics. One thing I discovered: the white wires leading into the black block measure 35V between them. They seem to lead out to the old Water Witch auto-fill controller which never worked. the red wires also attached at the same points lead down the right side conduit to two...