Search results

I have a 3HP VS pump, that mostly runs at a very low RPM for my SWG to work...it goes to higher RPMs for solar heating, skimming, etc a few hours a day. I have always used the 25% pressure rise as the trigger to backwash, and actually cleaned the filter annually. My last filter...

Yesterday, I did the spring cleaning of my DE filter. Most of the time I do it, I seem to find one panel that needs replacement. Normally that has been because the fitting that connects to the water supply manifold was broken/cracked. I was surprised yesterday that four of the panels had a...

This might be obvious and I've never done an RO treatment, but it would be nice to sharp-shoot it so that you still have the "right" amount of CYA and/or CH in the water when it finishes. You'll want at least a CYA of 30 and CH of 250. If either goes below, you'll want/need to increase them...

You're on the path to sanity by finding TFP...welcome! For now, just focus on keeping chlorine in the water...between the algae, other organics that might be there, and the intense sun, it might be challenging. But, you should be able to make it to the 26th when you can test using your test...

I'll add a few things to the good advice above... The ranges of levels provided try to address most circumstances, which you should fine tune to your situation. For calcium, I think it's best to be near the minimum (which can be as low as 250 on the recommended levels page). As it gets higher...

That is about as fresh as liquid chlorine gets. As long as you can verify your testing supplies are providing accurate results as discussed above, I would roll right into a SLAM. It might take a lot of chlorine at first and will require frequent testing, but it will only get worse if nothing...

Negative CSI isn't a concern in a fiberglass pool, it is only a concern in plaster-based pools since a negative CSI can leech calcium from the pool plaster and weaken it. Positive CSI is a concern in all pools since it can lead to calcium scaling and other problems. Depending on it's...

I would try adding another gallon or two of chlorine with your pump running, and test after 20 mins or so and see how that turns out. It should show some chlorine and will determine whether the chemicals you are using for testing are good. If that shows chlorine, then you have something...

When I've had DE entering the pool like that, it's always been a cracked filter grid. Take the filter apart and check for grid cracking, especially around the round plumbing fitting that snaps into place at the bottom of the filter. If they all look good, then post back here and someone will...

You can do this, but using stabilized chlorine tablets will add CYA to the water that will not leave quickly. If you do this long term, your CYA will rise to the point that you'll struggle to keep your water sanitized. When you add chlorine (whether it is stabilized or unstabilized), the CYA...

Beautiful pool, serenity is the right word! I bought my new-to-me house with a pool 6 years ago, and it took me 2 years to finally come around to the TFP way. So, you're ahead of my progress. Learning to maintain a pool is a process...I'm still learning from this site all the time. Do your...

You're going to need more liquid chlorine very soon...with FC at 0, algae will grow quickly. 2 gallons of liquid chlorine will add 10ppm of FC, but it will start to drop quickly, so you'll need to continue testing and adding more based on those tests. Yes, make sure to follow the instructions...

You wouldn't want to go much higher than this. Your SLAM chlorine level would be 24ppm. The CYA will slowly drop over the coming months and eventually you would need to add more. If you have pucks left over, they can be good for trips when you'll be away for a few days. Using them every once...

Also, the chlorine pucks will add CYA to your water. If you keep using them, CYA will get too high and make sanitizing your pool harder and harder. If/when you do the SLAM, make sure you stop using the pucks and only use liquid chlorine during the SLAM process.

I had the same problem as you a few years ago...algae would only form on the shady walls of the pool. The only way to truly rid yourself of it is to follow the SLAM process. You'll need time...it will take at least a few days and require lots of liquid chlorine and testing. Don't try to rush it.

I have an older version of the same panel. For me, the buttons on the main panel only work when the panel is in service mode. When it's in auto, I can only control things from the remote panel in the house. Yours could be different of course, did it work differently before?

In the PoolMath app, if you haven't already done so, go to "add pool" and fill in the 4 boxes under "Pool Information". Your type of sanitizer is bleach. Everything else is optional and can be added later as long as you uncheck "Log Weather Conditions" in the weather section. Once the pool is...

I had a different weir door issue, where i couldn't get the old one out because it was cemented in place. I was able to use one of these to make it work (that particular one is not available at Amazon, but I'm sure there are similar options). I'm not sure it will help with your issue, but it...

I was in a similar situation when we moved into our house 6 years ago. It was completely overwhelming for me at first, but I stayed at it, and eventually we got it figured out...you can do it too! I have a few thoughts in addition to those above: Could your pool guy help you fix this? It is...

If you are available to test daily, I would bring the pH down to the low 7s, and test each day. When you hit a pH of 8 (or you could choose to use 7.8), add acid to bring pH down to the low 7s again. As your TA drops, the rate of your pH rise will slow down, until it eventually will stop on its...

It's worth measuring the TA of your fill water too. Mine is 110, which isn't too bad compared to others, but it still slowly pushes my TA up over time. So I need to add acid at least a few times a month to keep pH under 8 in the short term, and TA under control in the longer term.

Does it feel like sand or DE? It looks more like sand to me in the picture. DE would be a very fine powder, much finer than normal sand.

A third option might be to just replace the motor on your pump. We have three pumps total for our pool, and I've replaced the motor on 2 of them over the last few years that were 20 years old and had issues.

I have an RJ60+ for my 18,000 gallon pool, so it's more than 3x, but I think it is well worth the extra money. In addition to what Newdude alluded to about better longevity, it also gives you more options. For example, for my son's birthday party next month we'll run the automation in spa mode...

In addition to the advice above, keep in mind that your FC loss each day is going to keep increasing as we move toward summer. This is the time of year that you'd much rather be on the high side than the low side with FC. When I was starting to figure my pool out, I checked the FC every night...

I went to the pool store all the time for the first 2 years after we moved into our house with a pool. I was PoolStored when I went in and their test told me that my phosphates were high. So, I did the phosphate treatment, which was slow and required me to backwash my filter a few times...

We'll be able to help you figure this out, but we need more info first; add details about your pool to your signature (see this link) and add to your signature what test kit you are using. Also, provide a complete set of test results (FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA) from your test kit. If your free...

It seems likely that you have something growing in the pool that's consuming chlorine, even if the water is clear. Do you mean 4 gallons of 10% or 12.5% liquid chlorine? If so, with the CYA level you mention, the pool should still have some free chlorine tonight, which is more evidence you...