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So as is tradition here is my annual post to humble brag about the TFP method and my pool going from opened to crystal clear in 24 hours. I can easily see the main drain cover screws from 10' away I can't recommend the TFP app enough and it sure beats paying someone else more money for subpar...

Been following/using the TFP method for a few years now and every year I remember why. Opened the pool on a Sunday, ran the robot a few times, tested the water, added salt/CYA/borax/liquid chlorine, turned on the SWCG, did a mini-SLAM and four days later pool looks immaculate. Can clearly see...

Hmm I added 4 lbs over the past week or so, will keep an eye on pH and see if it stabilizes with no cya being added. Thanks for the insight as always.

Not that I'm aware of, haven't had to fill except for once at beginning of season. Didn't think of rain but the pH drops even with no rain. What you are saying makes sense, pH shouldn't drop unless acid is being added. I will have to think about what could be introducing acid into the water...

No cover unless pool is closed for the season.

Every week my pool pH is consistently lower by .1 or so. I have a SWCG so I assumed I would have to deal with the opposite. It's not a big deal, I add 1lb of borax every other week to bring pH back up to 7.7-7.8 and my TA remains about the same at 70 every time I test. I am more curious than...

Hah easy enough, thank you

Hi all, I opened my pool on Sunday and all went well. I did my initial testing yesterday and added/adjusted chemicals as needed (not much really needed, thanks TFP!) The only issue is according to the TFP app my CSI is -.89! I wouldn't usually be concerned about this except I now have a SWCG...

My water is clear and I passed the oclt but I have the same specks visible in front of my light at night and exactly the same as you described: visible 6"-8" directly in front of the light and that's it. I figured it was natural occurring debris and don't worry about it too much

I went ahead and tested for phosphates. Taylor test indicated between 250-500 ppb (lighter than 250, darker than 500). I will probably re-test when I open the pool and add the appropriate amount of Orenda PR-10000. I don't really think this is influencing the amount of chlorine being produced...

My 406a heater uses an intermatic t104r timer with the intermatic fireman's switch, works great and ensures the heater isn't running when the pump is off. I didn't look up the spec for your heater but mine is 240v, if you are using 120 the t103r should be fine.

My gauge spit out a bit of oil when I pulled the pin the first time. With the pin out I squeezed the gauge just enough to get a bit more oil out then I put the plug back in. It's common for liquid gauges to have a small air bubble at the top to allow the fluid to expand without coming out of...

I use a driver with a long extension and hex bit, works great. Like others have said, I lubricate mine in the spring before screwing them down for the season.

I am going to spring for the Taylor 1106 phosphate test kit and see what the results are.

Measured FC of 6.5-7 (sample was very slightly pink after 13 drops) at 7:30 pm which indicates a daily FC loss of around 2-2.5. To summarized my amateur testing results: Water test CYA 70 Salt 3200 as per Taylor k-1776 test (3500-3600 as per CircuPool display) Temp 84 degrees Equipment rj-60+...

My inclination is the manufacturers list the cell performance based on very specific criteria and operating environments, similar to how car manufacturers list their EPA fuel mileage. Sure you can hit those mpg numbers if you tape the doors shut, run 0w oil, inflate the tires to 100 psi, etc...

FC level at 7:00 am after running the cell for 9.5 hours at 100% is 9 so that's a total gain of 2.5 FC. Pool math app calculated it should have risen by 6.1. Going to turn off the cell and test the FC level in the late evening to determine daily FC loss.

I cranked up my rj-60+ cell output to 100% at 9:30 tonight, FC level was 6.5. Will measure again in the morning and calculate overnight FC gain and tomorrow will shut off the cell to determine daily FC loss.

My understanding is the unit has a duty cycle which corresponds to % generated. For example if the duty cycle is 200 minutes, at 50% the cell will turn on for 100 minutes and off for 100 minutes. At 100% the cell will turn on for the full 200 minute duty cycle. The amperage does not change...

Interesting. In your opinion given the current range my unit is displaying (5.75-6.25 amps) it would seem the likelihood that it is producing the manufacturer's specified amount of chlorine is not very likely since that would require 8 amps, is that correct? This is all interesting to me and I...

When my RJ60+ was running the current indicated on the display ranged between 6.12-6.2 amps. I'm not sure if salinity levels or temperature can influence the current being sent to the cell but mine never went above that range. I just checked again (the joys of working from home I guess...) and...

In order to get a better handle on chlorine generation/replacement I guess the next step would be to raise FC level to around 10 in the morning, keep the SWCG off for the day and test in the evening to determine my chlorine loss and that would tell me how much I need to replace during the day to...

Not sure how helpful this will be but I recently installed an rj-60+ cell. My pool is roughly 24k gallons and I run the cell at 50% for twelve hours a day (9:00 am to 9:00 pm). According to pool math that should equate to an output of 3.9 FC per day and my chlorine levels have been fairly...

I'm in the same situation. I scooped out the mass of leaves and debris yesterday but there is still a good amount of fine dirt on the bottom. I'm adding liquid chlorine each day and brushing to mix it all up, hopefully the power comes back on today.

If it's a Hayward niche then any current Hayward halogen fixture should work just fine. For lubricating the cord I would lube up a few feet of cable after it's attached to the drag line and before you dunk it in the pool. There should be enough residual soap still on the cable to get it to work...

1) Do you have a model number from the light you took out? Should be a sticker somewhere on it. I would want to make sure the new light fits inside the existing niche but 120v 500 w fixtures are fairly common. Stainless or plastic frame doesn't matter, it's just aesthetics. I wouldn't have any...