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It looks like the corroded connection is the MV (main valve power) connection. PV=pilot valve power and MV/PV= common power connection. It looks like the male spade connection at the gas valve is corroded off. Due to the excessive corrosion of the gas valve, just replacing the gas valve may not...

If the gas valve solenoid is sticking closed when voltage is applied, you will draw more amperage than the listed amps on the gas valve label and might blow a low voltage fuse. If the solenoid coil is open, you will show 0 amps when the gas valve is powered.

If it did submerge the heater I would also include any and all electronics, safeties and wiring connections. Feel free to ask any questions of our experts here regarding a new heater.

If the water level reached the height of the rust on the outside of the AC condenser it is likely that the gas valve, inline regulator and some heater safeties were in the water and these should be replaced in order to run the heater safely. This is true even if these parts were only partially...

Regarding the high-pressure trip/lockout, the water flowing through the heat pump from your pool is what reduces both the pressure and temperature of the discharge gas from your compressor and causes it to condense into a liquid transferring the heat to your pool water. Low water flow from a...

If your heater is running the AFS contacts are part of an electrical circuit and you would be measuring voltage not resistance. If the blower is not creating adequate differential pressure either to close the AFS contacts or keep the AFS contacts closed, there can be numerous causes for that.

There are only 2 choices when you have an airflow switch problem. Either you are developing the correct pressure differential to make the switch close and it isn't closing (failed airflow switch) or you are not developing the correct pressure differential to close the switch. A differential...

Difficult to tell without seeing all of the parts both inside and outside of the burner compartment, but from the excessive amount of corrosion it might not be due to a water leak from the heat exchanger/water manifold. You could try running the heater with the gas supply shut off to see if you...

I used Craftsman Coatings Inc 1625 Athol Ave, Henderson, NV 89011 (702) 829-8135 they are a concrete contractor

Ended up getting all of the old removed, etched, rinsed, coated and colored. and then sealed for $ 3000 (just under $6/sq,ft. Crew was very detail oriented and left everything very clean. Looks great! I might have them clean, stain and seal my concrete patio next.

I have a 20-year-old pool with a type of cool deck in Las Vegas. The decking was showing wear and deterioration. During covid I had a company attempt to do a repair and it turned out badly. The parts that they repaired looked good for about a year, but are now showing ugly wear in the repaired...

So you are saying that the "IGN/FS" and the "PS" wires are switched at the Fenwal? In that case you would be putting 24V from the closed contacts of the pressure switch to the flame sensor circuit which is not active until the end of the sequence of operation when the Fenwal checks for flame...

You said that you get a 1 blink fault code at the Fenwal. That is an airflow fault code and you would not start the ignition sequence by putting 24V to "PS" on the Fenwal and powering the ignitor for the 40 sec warmup nor get 24V between "VAL" and "GND" after the warmup.

How did you test the airflow switch? With a differential manometer? If the blower starts up, you should have 24V between "W" and "GND" on the Fenwal. If you then don't have 24V between "PS" and "GND" on the Fenwal, either the pressure switch is not closing because of insufficient airflow (...

You are showing both sides of the connections for the 2 wires (at the connector for the "fuse circuit board" and the "control module"). It appears to be burnt off at the 2 pin connector to the "fuse circuit board". The fuse circuit board part number should be FDXLFWP1930. The 2 wires are the low...

If it is a weak or open compressor capacitor it should be warrantied by Hayward. Out of curiosity, how old is the heat pump, who did you purchase it from and who installed the heat pump?

You should also check that the compressor capacitor is within + or - 10% of the listed MF rating.

Discoloration of the HTR2 connection at the circuit board is an indication of a poor/loose connection which would cause increased resistance and high heat at that point.

As I meantioned before, there is a very high probability that the damage extends beyond just the burner tray. Attempting repair by someone who is not thoroughly trained in ALL safety precautions needed to make the repair competently would be a big mistake and might result in a hazardous condition.

That will still not address the core issue. It would appear that you have a direct short to ground on the low voltage side of the transformer. You will need to track the short to ground down or you will just keep blowing fuses instead of the transformer.

It should be a 2 Amp fast blow glass fuse. Most fast blow glass fuses have a small thin wire inside. Slow blow fuses have either a coiled wire or a flattened ribbon wire and are meant to blow only under a sustained overcurrent load. If you have larger than a 2 Amp fuse or a slow blow fuse, you...

When you replaced the fuse was it an exact match for the one that as blown? That fuse is the protection for the transformer.

Tried to google as Pentair 471424. While most on the list showed as discontinued or out of stock, you might try contacting those that do not show the part as such. Someone may have one sitting around.

Most fan motors can be replaced with non OEM motors as long as the specifications match. A photo of the fan motor and its label is needed to confirm that. Some manufacturers attempt to make it difficult to replace by using OEM fan motor connectors or OEM fan motor mounts or non traditional shaft...

Heat pump reversing (4 way) valve wired incorrectly or incorrect reversing valve. When the reversing valve is powered it shifts in one direction and when it is not powered it shifts in the other direction. The valves could be either powered for heating or powered for cooling, depending on the...

I can see that CSI would need to be extremely negative and PH would probably kill my heater.

Recently had a failure of autofill valve and noticed it had popped up and overfilled the pool. Pool filled to within an inch of the top of the skimmer. Reseated autofill at a lower level and shut off autofill feed. With the pool level above the accumulation at the tile waterline can I try to...

At least any parts needed should still be under warranty

Should still be under warranty for both parts and labor then. Just make sure that the heater is running 100% before the one year covered labor expires.

Good idea... looked at your user guide and it doesn't really give any technical information.