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I got my iron tested at the pool store today, and the reading was .1ppm. I find this difficult to believe. Is it possible that the sequestrant is concealing it from the test?

Ok well, I was organizing my pool supplies and there was an old bag of salt from three seasons ago. Yep, it was chlorox. And right around that time is when I started having this iron problem. I guess what I need to focus on now is finding a more effective way to exchange my water.

Thanks for your reply. In response to your questions: I did add more salt to the pool. The brand I'm using is Diamond. I used Jack's Purple. In the past I've used Metal Out. Yes I did do maintenance doses, if I used even more, perhaps it would work better, but at some point it gets to be...

After enjoying several seasons of trouble free pool using the methods on this forum, I'm having a problem with Iron that I can't seem to overcome. My iron test strips show that there is no iron in the municipal water or in the pool water, but that is clearly not true. Last season I started...

The street is indeed paved, there isn't a storm sewer system so I presume it runs downhill and eventually drains into the ground. However some areas do have issues with water pooling in the road or at the bottom of a driveway. If it's rainwater there's no one to blame for it. I guess maybe I...

Ok so I have another question on this topic. Whether doing drain and refill or exchange, I need to drain a significant amount of water from the pool. My pool drains to a drywell, and has no main drain. There is no sewer system in our area. Where is it advisable to drain the water? The town code...

Ok thanks, I'm thinking what I will try is to keep the winter cover mostly on for the UV protection and do the job quick with a big pump. TDS isn't a number I've used in water chemistry, but what I really mean was any dissolved solids, to see how effected the water turnover was. For example...

Thanks for your response! I believe the Iron is coming from patio furniture and other items in the pool surround area that rust and runoff into the pool during heavy rain. My plumbing is brass pipe(I know unusual) with some modern sections in copper tube. The water is from a municipal supply...

I have a vinyl liner pool, the liner is about 11 years old, but has given me no trouble and perhaps it can hold up a few more seasons. However last year I had a bit of a headache with Iron. I'd like like to replace some of the water to reduce the iron, and I think it would be smart to do so...

Is there a lab or service I where I can send a water sample to get an accurate sense of metal levels in the pool?

No I don't know the source of the iron. It is a vinyl pool and there are no metal features in pool other than a pool light. My plumbing is mostly brass pipe(yes this is uncommon) and newer sections in copper, there is no iron/galvanized pipe in the system. My water source is municipal water, but...

Yes. We opened the pool and swam in it before I treated the Iron stains. Also we do not believe the taste existed when we closed the pool in the fall.

The CULaer has been in place about 3 weeks, in the pump basket.

It could be, I've been using a CU later to try to remove some of the Iron. The taste does not appear to vary with the pH it is still present when he pH is higher.

Yes I did consider this, but the evidence against that hypothesis is substantial. 1. The taste appeared before the use of the liquid cover. 2. The manufacturer of the liquid cover states that it should not impart taste. 3. I did not observe the problem in previous years while using the same...

Problem: Pool water continues to taste sour despite water apparently conforming to TFP specifications. Background: I opened the pool this year in may with a slam, and balanced the chemistry as normal, but on the first swim my kids stated the water tasted sour. Everything tested in the...

Just opened the pool today! So I have the heat pump plumbed as the last stop before the salt generator, and then it goes into the jets. There is a manual bypass for the heat pump loop that I can use during slams and for other reasons. However I noticed something. I have a variflo multiport valve...

TA 80 FC 8 CC not tested CYA 30 CH not tested PH 8 Water condition - very clear SALT - 3000ppm I have a vinyl liner salt water pool. I noticed towards the end of summer, my pH keeps rising to around 8. I usually address this once a week by adding MA(yes I finally got comfortable using this...

Thanks, I thought about this, but what I really want to avoid is having a tripping hazard of a hose running across the deck. I also considered whether I could position the hose to arc water into the pool across the deck, has anyone tried that or is there a device meant for this purpose?

In the summer when I'm not around, I sometimes have someone stop by to backwash my filter, empty the skimmers, and check my chemicals etc. However a problem we've been having is that the water level is too low to backwash, and it can take an hour or more to top it up. The pool has no main drain...

Thanks folks! So my heat pump was under warranty and I was able to get the technician to come out. But before that, the heat pump gradually started to work for longer and longer intervals before cutting out. I think the issue may have been that the pressure in the refrigerant circuit was lower...

I replaced my autopilot whose screen failed. I'd like to input the pool volume into my autopilot for the salt adjustment calculation, only I don't know how many gallons the pool is. It seemed accurate before, but without the screen I could not determine what volume the autopilot was using. The...

If the problem causing the fault is resolved, will the low pressure fault go away, or does the machine need to be reset or unlocked somehow?

I tried to fire up my aquacal SQ150VS heat pump for the first time this season today and after starting up for a couple minutes, it shut down and gave this error. Now when I cut the power and turn it back on it just displays the code without trying to start up. Is there anything I can try before...

The display is blank today on my Autopilot digital, but it appears to be otherwise working. My forum search suggests I should check the wiring harness(done, I reseated the connectors, no improvement) and then replace part 833N, the upper circuit board. The part seems to run about 300 bucks. Is...

So the CYA level made it's way down to the 50 over the summer, probably rain and backwashing did it. I would say that with the CYA up at 80, it was not great for me. TFP recommends keeping the CYA at 70 or above for a SWG pool, but it does not recommend slamming at 70. So what do you do if the...

I use an aquacal pool sync to control my aquacal heat pump. I don't often heat the pool, so it's useful to turn it on remotely to give it more lead time to heat up the water. However I've noticed that every two weeks or so, it loses the wifi connection, and is unable to reconnect on it's own...

Yes but if the power is out and I come back in 3 days and the pool is green or cloudy, I need to boost the fc to 26 to clear it. We'll see how it goes. If there is a problem I guess I can also do a partial drain and refill, it's not that easy with my setup so hopefully rain and vacuuming/...

Well I tested again, and my pool is around 70-75. I definitely think it takes more than 48 hours for the cya to full dissolve and test on the Taylor kit. Now I'm not not loving this level so far. Basically it makes the consequences of a mistake much greater than the might normally be. If the...

Cool thanks. I have 1 more 4 lb. bag in the pool shed, so I'll test the water this weekend after I'm sure everything is dissolved, and then toss that one in. If I'm still short of 70 I'll use a trichlor tablet or two after rainstorms. Still have a few left, but not expecting any more to come...