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I have the kind of stains that are instantly dissolved with Ascorbic Acid. However, I hate using that due to the difficulties it causes with lowering FC and algae bloom risk. Not to mention, it is just a time-consuming nuisance to do it right! I have two questions: Does a metal sequestrant...

Yes, I overestimated the Liquid Chlorine requirement, but not by that much. According to the TFP SLAM Chart, at 60PPM CYA 24PPM should have been sufficient. Overnight that 33PPM was down to 19PPM. The next night was 17PPM. However, pool is crystal clear. I think I'll keep it around 20PPM for now...

Yes, sir. Cerainly did. However, the big problem was that it was simply upside down. When facing the the right way, the O-Ring has protruded ridges that go into the holes to prevent leaking. 100% leak-free now.

Thank you. I wondered about the accuracy of the PH. However, my tap water's PH has been extremely high lately, so it's not all that surprising. Pool is looking great, but now I'm dealing with stains.

Mine was clear, but had al algae ring around it. The FC was just 1.5PPM. I went a little bit overboard wanting to avoid an Algae bloom and SLAMMED it with 3 x 121oz jugs of 7.5% chlorine and 2 x 1lb bags of 58% Cal-Hypo. After overnight the FC is now 33PPM. The PH is sky high at about 8.5...

Fixed! Really stupid on my part. The double o-ring needs to be facing the wholes. That is what helps seal it. I have had it wrong for 2 or 3 years now!

I deal with this every year when I open the pool. I have a small leak coming out of the housing of the chlorinator; possibly because the PVC pipe with the two holes is a little warped or flat. I crank it down until it is almost stopped, but eventually I end up cracking the saddle housing by...

Yeah, I think draining the filter would do the trick. Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and do that. I just wanted to avoid having to reprime the pump. My pump is a long, long ways from the pool and it takes time and wear and tear on the pump. I did get some marine glue, but I think your idea...

Thanks, I will look into this 3M 4799. The problem is that I cannot get the contact area dry without completely draining my plumbing equipment. The water valve area just continually feels with water. I even tried sucking it out with the shop vac, but two 10-gallon buckets later it still was not...

Can I use an underwater adhesive to help keep my spider gasket secure? I recently replaced it and it worked great until I backwashed. The gasket became slightly jarred loose and was making a loud air vibration noise. I sealed it all up and it works again, but I am afraid it will just come loose...

As it turns out, my instincts were correct. The valve gasket was not seated properly so water was escaping from the filter into waste port. I was losing water simply because the gasket was not seated properly. I lubed up the new gasket and firmly seated it in place and 1 week later with the...

Thanks, I will try this if needed. Since I've already ordered the parts, I will replace them and see if that solves the problem before I take that next step.

Last year. I cleaned the pool, backwashed it and put the port back on filter. After about a half-hour I lost about 6 inches of water. I filled the pool back up, tightened the bolts around the gasket, and reseated it firmly. That solved the severe issue, but the slow leak has continued ever...

My pool is losing water; about 1" every five days even with the solar cover on 24x7. I just ordered a gasket replacement for my sta-rite mutli-valve port. I plan on replacing the gasket, o-rings, and spring. They have never been replaced before and this seems like the most logical thing to try...

A very simple solution thanks to your inspiration: Used a 2" to 1" reducer bushing on a 1" piece of pipe with a 1" valve on top. Works great.

Thanks. I think this will be a work in progress. I bought a 2" PVC valve from Home Depot and it just doesn't quite have enough clearance to fit. I am going to rethink what you said about 1" contraption of some sort.

Thanks. Exactly what I needed to know. Do you know precisely what kind of valve would fit inside the top opening of the pipe? I have done some Google searches and can't find exactly what I am looking for. The main drain has never frozen, so I think it's just reassurance more than anything.

My method in the past has been to screw 2" pipe into the skimmer and main drain threads. If I put my cyclone blower directly into the skimmer to blowout the lines, should the filter and pump be plugged or unplugged while blowing? It seems I should keep things plugged to make sure the water is...

Thanks. I'm tempted to skip the polyquat altogether and just go with slam and temp under 60. I have never worried about water temp before when I closed, so I think that's been the problem the few times I had a mess in the Spring.

Thank you all so much for the valuable information. I think I have enough to work through this. I have closed the pool successfully on two other occasions. The 3rd time, I forgot to blow out the overpass pipe in my pump room so it froze and exploded. I had the pool guy fix it and close it a...

Thank you! Just to clarify, there is no need to blow or pour antifreeze down the main drain? What's to keep the main drain from freezing up in the higher part of the pool? But, I should still pour antifreeze down the skimmer line and blow it towards the jets, but plug within a 1/2 second to...

Thanks. Honestly, I just don't think I followed the below-60 rule before I closed. It was below 60 when I opened. By late October, I should be ready. So if my CYA is around 50PPM, I should get the FC up to around 10?

I've read lots of conflicting opinions on what chemicals to use. It seems the most important thing is to get the temp below 60 and open pool before it gets above 60. I've had some severe algae problems after opening the pool 4 of the last 5 years so want to make sure I get it right this time...

Thanks. What I did was clean and re-lube the O-Ring on the pump lid. Also, I don't think the filter knobs were cranked down enough. I tightened all of those. The side pump o-rings looked good. I removed the plumber's tape which I put a few years ago when the pump was installed. The plumber had...

Good idea. Note the air bubbles in pump. I think this is the big clue there is an air link. The pump is running at 2375RPM when I snapped the photo. I don't think I should have air bubbles, but where are they coming from? The O-Ring on the Pump basket looks pretty good.