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Yeah, I see that now. I'd been told when I purchased it that it was a direct replacement for the CT1102, but I guess that was incorrect information. Is it just straight up dead now? Any way to fix it, or am I just out the money?

Thanks for the reply! Here are the labels. Like I said, CT1102 and UCT1102:

I had an issue with my old 1081 CT1102 1 HP motor. I wasn't able to fix it, and ultimately ended up replacing it with a new UCT1102, which is just the more eco-friendly version of the one I had. I installed the new pump and turned it on. I kept an eye on it for about ten minutes and everything...

So my attempts at soldering failed. Tried four different hardware stores talking to their staff about other means to secure it, but nothing ended up working. I think I'm ready to throw in the towel and take it a professional repair shop at this point.

Sorry for the lack of info in the original post. I circled in red where I believe the wire disconnected. It's a 1081 CT1102 AO Smith 1 HP motor (Mod. K48L2N100A1).

The pump was humming and shutting off, so I went to remove the capacitor to test it, and as I pulled off the leads, one of them just popped off (see the included pic). I assume I'll need to sodder it back on, but I don't own any soddering equipment, and have never used any before, so I wanted to...

Thanks for the replies. I did end up just ordering the T104.

There is no neutral wire coming from the breaker or the motor. Both have two hots and one ground. Hence my problem.

No, no return policy for the T103. So no work around other than buying a 240v motor?

Hey... so the timer on my pump bit the dust this past week after only having been installed for a few months. It was a relatively cheap digital timer from Home Depot that was 120V, 240V, 277V selectable, and when I went to leave a review for it it had already been discontinued, haha. So I...

Yes, thanks! The strap wrench worked like a wonder. I got a used motor on there which works, but now the unit is just hemorrhaging water out of it when I try to run it, so I reckon I need to replace the seals etc on the impeller unit.

I definitely don't see a screw holding the impeller in place. The pump is a Hayward Super II, Model: K48M2N123 / SP-1615-Z1-BEE. I don't have a strap wrench... looks like a trip to Lowes is in order tomorrow.

Thanks for everyone's advice. Unfortunately, as with everything with this project so far, I've hit another hitch. So before I can even get a new motor I need to get the impeller off my old one... and it won't budge. I've removed the impeller off my old Super II pump a few times with no trouble...

Thanks for the helpful replies! My original issue had been with my Super II chassis. I was given a replacement Super II unit from someone here on the forums, but the motor for that didn't work (as posted here in this thread) and my old pump didn't fit that chassis. The SF on the broken motor...

So I began the process of dismantling the pump to replace the bearings, and it's internally degraded far beyond being worthy of repair. Any suggestions on the cheapest route to next pursue? Thanks.

Thanks for the advice. I found a guide online to do it and will pull the motor tonight to check it out. Only thing I'm missing are external ring pliers.

So I replaced my old motor with a used one that a member here was getting rid of (Super II 1.5 HP). It's an older unit that had been sitting out for at least a few months. A touch of WD40 got it spinning fine and the gasket and o-rings all looked serviceable. I have it installed now, but when I...

So yeah, busting out the measure tape it would leave just under 3/4ths of an inch of pipe where I proposed a cut. The piping coming out of the ground looks like 1 1/2 to me, with the angle adapting from 1 1/2 to 2. If that's not enough to glue onto, I think Kiss4aFrog is right, and the only...

The plumbing specialist store was completely useless. So unless anyone has any objections, I think I'm going to try to cut the PVC at where the horizontal end of the pvc leaving the 90 joint meets the angled piping (at the red line in the below picture) and remove the male pump connector (along...

The motor was already out, it's getting it in that's at issue. I was going to go to a plumbing specialist store today to see if they had some ideas for the easiest way to accomplish it.

So is it definitive that I wouldn't be able to cut the line going down into the ground and use flexible PVC to attach it to the pump? That would give me the play I need, but I don't have any experience with flexible PVC to know whether it would be appropriate for the task.

I tried that initially, but wasn't able to make it work.

The original issue was with my chassis. I was given a new one and installed it, but didn't think to check to see that the connector I got from Lowes was longer than the original that had been used, so even though I removed an inch from sawing off the old unit, I gained 1 3/4ths of an inch from...

Just the motor needs to be changed.

Thanks, below is a full view of the area. Is there really no simple fix here? I was really hoping adding a single inch wouldn't be that challenging a process. My gut instinct when I discovered the problem was to just knock out a small section of the slump block where it was hitting, but I both...