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The pump runs on 120V. It's not new... Has been up and running for a couple years.

My pump actually runs on 110V. It's a Pentair Superflow. There's no 220 in any of my pool equipment. The light draws such little power that it seems like a waste of a dedicated circuit. That's why I would like to run them both on the same circuit.

Hi all, I'm looking to free up some spots in my electrical panel. I have a newish LED pool light (Hayward ColorLogic) that never gets used and has a dedicated manual switch (which is always in the OFF position). I reckon once my kids get older they'll swim at night and start using it more...

Quick follow up... given the impending hurricane I am tempted to put the cover on the pool for the next few days to protect it from what could be massive amounts of leaves and tree debris. Is there a good reason to not do this? Figured this might also help protect from sunlight chlorine loss...

Thanks guys! Sounds like this should be manageable.

Hello folks, My old Hayward Super Pump just started tripping the breaker and I went ahead and purchased a VSP to replace it with. It's going to take about a week for the new pump to get here, so in the meantime my pool will not be circulating. Obviously I'm worried about algae growth, etc...

Ok I think there is progress. I added 12.5 ppm of liquid chlorine. Tested 15 minutes later and got near zero FC. Added another 12.5 ppm of chlorine. Tested 15 minutes later and got 9 FC and <0.5 CC! Tested ammonia and it showed <0.25 ppm! (At this low end, it's hard to distinguish between 0...

Thanks. Just curious - what would be the downside of going beyond shock level? - - - Updated - - - That's great to know. Thanks.

Ok, I went to a pet supply store and bought an ammonia-testing kit. I have ammonia - about 5 ppm according to the test result. Go figure. I read in a few other posts that the rule of thumb is add 10x the ammonia amount in chlorine: so I would need to add 50 ppm of chlorine. For my 25k gal pool...

Ok, I'm starting to get more confused here. After testing FC at 2 ppm, I added 2 gallons of 12.5% sodium hypo (this should increase the chlorine in my 25k gallon pool by 10 ppm). 30 minutes later, it still tested 2 ppm. So I added 2 more gallons. One hour later, it tested at 1 ppm. That's 4...

Thanks borjis, that is useful info. I am holding at least 2 ppm of FC so that's good to know. I did just try adding more powder to ensure not all of it dissolves and it gave me the same results. So at this point I am inclined to believe my own test results over the pool store's which means I...

Thanks again. I'll give it another shot with more powder. Ammonia would make sense since my CYA level plummeted between when I closed it last year (>100) to when I opened it this year (<20). I've now raised it to about 35.

Hi Richard, Actually, I don't have any granules leftover. And, now that you mention it, I do remember having them last year. Should I try using more powder? If my results are correct (low FC and high CC), then I would need to SLAM to get rid of CC, correct? But, I don't want add all that...

Thanks for the response. I'm still somewhat confused because now I've gotten my water tested at 2 different places (each of which has a different testing method) and they're both giving 10ppm for FC and 10 for TC (so 0 CC). Whereas I get like 2ppm FC and 8ppm CC using my DPD-FAS kit (TC does add...

I have a TF-100 kit that I bought last summer. So it is one year old, but has been indoors at all times (always kept at room temperature). When testing for FC, I fill the cylinder with 10 mL of pool water and add a heaping spoon of DPD powder, as indicated. The water turns pink and I start...

Ok, thanks. So I should do this first, then increase CYA, and then SLAM, if necessary?

That's what I'm hoping. I have a mesh cover and we had tons of snow this winter. Is this essentially the SLAM process?

Great, thanks! Not sure how it looks yet. I'm gone on vacation and will open it when I return next week. But I did test it right before I left (last Thursday), and got 7.5 pH, 40 TA and very low (<20) CYA, which surprised me because it was above 100 when I closed it last fall (I realize this is...

Hi everyone, When opening a pool, does the water need to circulate for a while before being able to obtain accurate results with a TF-1000 kit? Specifically, pH, TA and CYA, I'm wondering if my readings are meaningless if tested BEFORE turning on the pump. Thanks!

Thanks for the responses. Just a point of clarification: I have been reading these forums for quite some time and, with the resources found in here, I have been fairly self-reliant with pool maintenance. I now understand the distinction between SLAM and regular shock. With due diligence and...

Yes, good call. I'll create a signature. I have a LoopLoc mesh cover - so I don't think it blocks UV. I do have a TF-100. I'll test it today and post the results. No SWG, that's a project for next year. I use an in-line chlorinator for now, which I know is not ideal and increases my CYA. I have...

Hi all, I have quite a bit of traveling planned in June. Would it be ok to leave the pool closed until after? I peeked under the cover and the water looks ok right now - a little murky but not green. The way I see it, I will have to SLAM no matter what. Maybe it will take a bit longer if I...

Thank you Dave!

Hi, I'm a relatively new pool owner. Last year was my first time closing the pool, which unfortunately coincided with the birth of my first child :). I naively decided that cleaning out the DE filter could wait until spring, and forgot to open the bottom drain valve. So today I opened it up to...