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once it is cleared up, you may want to get some of the two-part underwater-curing epoxy and stuff or smear a little over that spot. I think there is small hole or gap a that location where the water is getting to the rebar and it needs to be plugged.

You need to use Glass Block mortar for sure. Post on this site and you should get some good advise and product recommendations from the tile pros pretty quickly. Tile Forum/Advice Board - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Probably not. IMO. Those booster pumps are designed for high pressure and low flow. What you want is the opposite (low pressure, high volume).

I've used a penetrant sealer on my paver deck, and it soaked into the pavers and left nothing on top. It sounds like yours went on too thick and left a layer on top. So you should be able to strip off the excess. There are several products available such as this Paver and Concrete Sealer...

You could just use the built in dropper from the food dye bottle (if your bottle has that style tip). Then reach in the water and squeeze a drop out near the area your testing. The key is to be able to watch the drop and see how it moves.

I used to have the IntelliFlo pump and it was controlled through the IntelliTouch (relay). It was capable of running itself with its built in timer, but the IntelliTouch can also provide the control (which I believe was the preferred setup when you have the IntelliTouch and IntelliFlo since the...

If the pump is not connected to a relay in the IntelliTouch, how do you turn it off an on? EDIT: I came back to this to update it. I forgot how this pump worked when I had it (I just looked a the manual). It does connect to "always hot" 240V and then receives its RUN/OFF commands from its low...

It is not permitted to cut/splice the feed wire to the light. If you need to replace the light, you would pull the old light out with its cord (attach a pull sting the the old cord), and pull in the new light/cord at that time.

The dye test usually involves putting a drop or two within inches of the suspected leak then watching the dye to see if it moves towards (into) the leak. If the leak is small and there is no other water movement, eventually the dye will go into the leak. It won't work if you create a cloud of...

See if the calibration instructions in this post can be of help. Salt Just be sure that you know the correct values before making any changes.

I was making a not-so-funny joke - thinking of how a garden rake is used in dirt. Sounded funny in my head. Sorry.

You should be pulling the rake, not pushing it. :D

The 601101 is the 120V model, correct? Check the supply voltage to see if it is dropping under load. Put your voltmeter leads on the load side of the GFI breaker feeding the light. Turn on the light and record the voltage, then watch the voltage as the light dims (does the voltage drop?. If yes...

That's similar to the problem I had with my SWG. When the pump was on "Low speed" there was not enough water flow to let the SWG run. So in order to get chlorine in pool the pump had to run faster. I think you will find the same thing on your heater. You will need to increase the pump's...

If those wires are 12V then the risk drops considerably. I think I will cut the wires and then measure the voltage, if 12V I'm going to proceed with my splicing plan, if 120V I will scrap the light.

Thanks - that's what I'm seeking here. I doubt I'm going to find a local electrician to give me an opinion since this is not a typical project they would come across. And if I tried to hire a qualified electrician they would tell me to just replace the fixture (they don't want the liability -...

Do any of you see any problem with my plan to cut/slice the 120V wires located inside a 120V pool light? These two wires feed the "color wheel" on a Pentair SAM light. The color wheel has a circuit board on it that has gone bad (color wheel doesn't rotate). I have a spare SAM light for parts. I...

I learned something important today. Thanks. BTW, the link provided in post #2 even states that motors should not be on GFI breakers - so i guess both of us are outdated.

It's real hard to figure out your plumbing layout form the picture provided. This is what I think id going on (usually the Pool or Spa mode would be controlled by automation) so I marked the drawing accordingly. Can you confirm this is correct?

There was a similar post about the ScreenLogic not being able to connect through the OPs home network, and it was due to the ScreenLogic having a default gateway (network address) setting of 192.168.1.1 For some reason the ScreenLogic reset itself to its default settings. Many home networks use...

Bump Any thoughts on this? Replacement light bulbs have arrived. I'll be finishing this project tonight. Should I install the new gasket dry or use something extra to help the sealing? Maybe I'm over thinking this.

My replacement light bulbs have arrived for my old Pentair SAM Amerilite lights. I have new gaskets. One of the light leaked and was half full of pool water. I want to be sure it doesn't leak again. I will install the new gasket around the lens dry, but should I put anything between the rubber...

Are you saying the pool pump shuts off too? If yes, what do you do to restart the pump? Is it just a matter of sending a "pump on" command from the easy touch or do you need to reset something? You may want to disconnect the remote control from the heater and run it manually to see if it stays...

BTW - What we sometimes call salt water pools (i.e. pools with a salt water chlorine generator (SWG)) are still considered to be "fresh water pools" since the salt concentration is less than 6000 parts per million (ppm). The ocean (salt water) is 35 parts per thousand or 35,000 ppm.

The heater can be wired/installed with either 120V or 240V power supply. The Blower is available as 120V (p/n ... BWR1931) or 240V (p/n ...BWR1930), from what I have seen. Be sure you are getting the correct part for the voltage you have. You would be able to tell what voltage your heater is...

On my RayPak heater the instructions say for remote control use set the heater's internal setting to max (104) before switching over to remote operation. So if you missed this step, and say only set the internal heater setting to 90, even if the remote is commanded to heat to 104, the heater...

You can get the IntelliChlor power module "built-in" to the IntelliTouch load center or you can have a separate power box for the IntelliChlor. I added my IntelliChlor later so it has a separate power center (about 6"x8"x10") that I have mounted on wall next to IntelliTouch which is then wired...