Splicing wire for 120V Pool Light (splice inside light fixture)

[CountryBumkin]

Do any of you see any problem with my plan to cut/slice the 120V wires located inside a 120V pool light?

These two wires feed the "color wheel" on a Pentair SAM light. The color wheel has a circuit board on it that has gone bad (color wheel doesn't rotate). I have a spare SAM light for parts. I want to swap the color wheel. BTW I can't just replace the entire fixture with my spare because the spare does not have a long enough cable (and Code doesn't not allow splicing the feed cable)

The area where I would cut/splice is not a wet area (water doesn't get to this part of light) however if the lens gasket leaks this area would get wet. I plan to use a waterproof splice kit (3M kit - this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and for extra protection, I put some "liquid electrical tape" over the splice.

Lastly the pool light is feed from a GFI breaker.


EDIT:
To add - I don't know if those red wires are 120V or 12V (there may be a transformer in the base of the fixture buried in that epoxy). Maybe 12V since the replacement bulbs are 12V 35W. But I'll still treat this project as if it's 120V.

 

[domct203]

I highly recommend you seek the advice of a qualified electrician with this.

 

[CountryBumkin]

Thanks - that's what I'm seeking here.
I doubt I'm going to find a local electrician to give me an opinion since this is not a typical project they would come across. And if I tried to hire a qualified electrician they would tell me to just replace the fixture (they don't want the liability - and it's my money being spent). Of course Pentair will tell me to buy a new $500 light.
I also posted this question on the "electrical forum".

Underwater/underground splices are done all the time. The splice kit I'm buying is for splicing submersible well pump wires. This splice will not see the harsh conditions that a truly submersed wire would see.

 

[CJadamec]

At the end of the day you aren't allowed to do any work to a pool light other than basically change the bulb. You assume all legal liability if your repair goes wrong. Any repair or modification to the lite voids its UL listing. I'm not say I don't see where you are coming from with it costing a lot of money trust me I do. The best advice I can give you is not to repair the light and look into a different solution.

 

[Flying Tivo]

I did a repair on a submersible water pump, you do normal braid, then use liquid Electrical Tape, let it dry and then use shrink tube with the special epoxy inside and that will seal it completely. Never has failed me, but as always you asume the liability.

Felipe

 

[CountryBumkin]

If those wires are 12V then the risk drops considerably.
I think I will cut the wires and then measure the voltage, if 12V I'm going to proceed with my splicing plan, if 120V I will scrap the light.

 

[blakeusa]

You can do it if you know what your doing.. its not recommended due to the risk of getting 120v into the pool water...

No electrician will touch this because of liability and code issues.

You can switch over *if its not to a 12v light system.

B

 

[Jedisparky]

I'm an electrician and the only thing I'll say is if you can afford to replace it do it. If you decide to do what your proposing (which I don't recommend) make sure the circuit is on a gfci and that you test it regularly. But seriously, pool lights are sealed at the factory for a reason.

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[CountyBumkin]

Thanks for all the advise. I appreciate the caution for my safety and my families safety.

I'll just restate that the pool light is on a GFI.

The repair is finished. it was all low-voltage. I have some photos of the repair but the forum says I have exceeded my quota. As soon as that is resolved, I'll post the photos

 

[CountyBumkin]

Here's the photos of the repair:

 

[Jedisparky]

The work looks really nice.

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