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My supplier has a sign up limiting you to four gallons of chlorine per visit. It didn't say anything about acid.

Tap water will have no CYA, so you don't need to test beforehand. To expand on Jim R's answer, we've discovered that inground pools are seldom the volume they claim to be. So work up to the CYA level, because trying to lower it if you overshot involves replacing some of your just-balanced water.

Yes.

The key is to not let the granules get into the filter. You may need to backwash due to plaster dust and you would have zero idea how much undissolved CYA may have gotten flushed away with it. So keep it out of the filter by whatever means.

8 hours filtering might be overkill during the season, and is going to be too much in the off season. I get by with two hours a day. If you know it's going to freeze, but not North Dakota-like, leave the pump on. Not knowing how it's wired, all I can suggest is removing the off tripper so you...

Poor flow can also come from a clogged pump impeller. Are there any pine trees around? Pine needles can slip right through the baskets.

Let's ask @OTPirate She lives in the area.

Refill the pool and add the bleach to the hose stream. It'll dilute and disperse pretty good that way. Then if you want to be extra-sure, do you thing with the pump.

What does the 8th drop do? For me, I usually see it go green to grey to pale pink to Barbie Pink. Keep going until you hit Barbie Pink and the next drop doesn't make it even brighter. Then deduct that last useless drop. I would say your TA is either 70 or 80, but only you will know. Either...

As the weather (and the water) cool and the days get shorter, you'll find that chlorine lasts a lot longer. Here on the west coast where we don't close, come January I'll add in a week what I used to add daily. Enjoy it. The sustained higher chlorine is ensuring a good kill on that mustard algae.

I hope you aren't reading that advice here. Most here advocate handling acid as little as possible, which eliminates diluting it first. Just trickle it into the return stream while the pump is running and it'll dilute and disperse quickly.

Welcome! :wave: Start with so we're speaking the same language. Then follow the video. If you prefer the book to the movie, this is more detailed. But be aware that the first step is going to be to reduce the CYA level to something reasonable, which will involve replacing at least half...

You will need to add CYA to your new pool when it gets filled. However, trichlor is not the best way to do it, even if it's cheap. Trichlor is really acidic, for starters, so depending n the fill water you might also end up needing a bunch of baking soda right away which would cancel any...

It was here when I bought the house.

It should be bright pink when you start. Add drops until it goes clear. If in doubt, add another. If it didn't change things, subtract that last useless drop. Just that easy. Ignore it turning pink after it sits. Just run the test at a comfortable pace. You don't need to rush, but you also don't...

If you have no algae, there's no reason to rush to lower CYA. You can bring it down slowly. I have a spigot on my return line so I can hook a garden hose to it and run pool water onto the lawn. Or down the storm drain to make room for rain water. I've even recently run a few hundred gallons of...

I only have answers for one question. Yes, you must replace the DE after backwashing/cleaning. If it's a backwash, use 80% of what the filter maker calls for, because it never ever rinses off completely. If you opened it up and everything is as clean as new, then use the full amount. I think...

Leave the pucks in the chlorinator as you planned. Your CYA could be that high, but I really doubt it got that high that fast. But do add some liquid bleach as well. If you have low CYA, it'll burn off fast and not get too high, and if you have high CYA, you'll still be well below SLAM level so...

Welcome! :wave: A few things 1) TDS is useless. If you have a SWG pool, you're starting with 3000 salt, then adding another 70 ppm CYA, and you'll want another 300 in CH and at least 50 TA.... it adds up fast. What each one is is more important than the total. 2) Pucks are about 6:10 CYA to FC...

I swept up about 3 gallons of ash from the patio and deck. I imagine there's about that much in the bottom of the pool awaiting vacuuming, but I'm holding off until the fires slow down because I'm sure I'll have to backwash immediately after and I'd rather do it only once.

These older threads may be of interest https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/163361-Clorox-Pool-amp-Spa-Smart-Test-Strips-Save-your https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/166190-Ph-Strip-vs-drop-test-severe-discrepancy-(pic)?p=1467680&viewfull=1#post1467680

I get weird noises out of the skimmer when the water level gets too low. It's almost like a toilet flushing.

I was thinking something more like this when I saw the title .

This jumped out at me. There's an easy solution. Stretch a hairnet or a knee-high nylon over your skimmer basket. It'll catch some pretty fine stuffso your filter can concentrate on just filtering microscopic stuff. Pictures Skimmer Sock/Nylon Illustrated

I can't see the plumbing all that well. But that chrome thing catches the dirty DE. This webpage explains things better. Myself? I'd open up the DE filter and take it all apart and clean it right.

A lot of that is probably recent ash.

Jump in! The FC is well below SLAM level for 70 CYA, so it's safe.

Yes.

No. The filter only knows it gets water from the pump. It doesn't care where the pump gets it from or where it goes after it leaves. Inground Pumps will work for an aboveground pool, but the other way may not work. Inground has to lift water to the basket, above grounds are gravity fed.