Search results

Yeah I like this method since I couldn't determine a level with the strips:?:

10" of rain in a 15'x30' pool is <3,000 gallons without any runoff. That's < 25% dilution.

Except for the cloudiness, FC loss sounds ok to me. You typically don't lose much or any FC overnight since chlorine is only consumed by organic matter in the pool or by sunlight. Lots of sun in Texas will burn chlorine during the day. Low CYA will also lead to a greater FC loss each day.

Sounds like magic:stirpot: Keep us posted as you progress!

I'm just addressing the bolded and underlined part. When you are doing a SLAM and adding chlorine, it's imperative that you check a FC level 30 minutes or so later so you can make accurate overnight assumptions. You might normally get a FC rise of 4.5 ppm per container under some circumstances...

:goodjob:

Well probably 70-80 for SWG Pool School - Water Balance for SWGs

SWG is the way to go if you can:cool:

Just the 0871 and 0870. The XL deal combines the 2 for a little savings. I replaced both but depending on your shock level, you will usually use way more drops than powder.

I know you are asking about filter size, but this link discusses different filter types so you don't just make the decision based on a pool company recommendation Pool School - Pool Filter Comparison do a search on this site for filter size and you will find good info too.

Yeah the CYA test results are heavily impacted by light. I bought a 50 ppm standard test sample from TFTestkits and tried it on an overcast day, sunny day facing sun and the recommended back to the sun method and really got a feel for what I should be looking for. Testing indoors would probably...

Chorine is essentially pH neutral. PH can't be accurately measured with FC > 10. Keeping FC at shock level for your CYA of 50 is the only way to clear up your pool.

I ordered refill reagents from TFTestkits on Thursday and they arrived Saturday in time to continue a SLAM.

You can check your FC a half hour or so after adding chlorine.

I put one of the glycerin-filled pressure guages on this year and it's so much nicer than the stock model that came on my filter. $12.50 + shipping and it could be used on any new equipment you get. TFTestkits.net

I recommend following these guidelines for SWG water balance: https://www.troublefreepool.com/content/138-water-balance-for-swg-saltwater-chlorine-generator TA won't rise on its own. pH can have a tendency to rise over time. CYA should be 70-80.

I hope to see the end of this story.

It makes a big difference. You want your back to the sun with tube down at your waist like JoyfulNoise advised. Under a can light or facing the sun the black dot can stay visible longer and give a false low reading.

Yeah it seems like a huge missed opportunity in Northern California. The company never responded to my enquiry and I wonder about their ability to keep up with demand. I understand they have to train people, etc. but California should be a major focus.

3 hours a day about 1200 rpm gives me enough FC and a good skim.

I second the Diamond Crystal water softener salt which I learned about on TFP after previously only using "pool salt". Cheaper and worked fine.

Thanks for tha link to poolspanews. Interesting.

I have the Triton Plus 2016 version which = Z5 (see the link below about different names for the same robots) and it's been great. Easy to use, easy to clean and pulls up stuff I never knew was in my pool before. Next mini-project is unbolting the Polaris booster pump and making more room on my...

One cleaning with Ahh-Some is better than none and 2 can be better, but not always necessary. I agree with white foam indicating you are good enough. It makes a difference running the jets for at least an hour with Ahh-Some and I think they changed the directions from 30 minutes to an hour...

That was great! Thanks for posting all the photos.