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That works, but you must remember to NOT set the temperature to 104 on the heater unless that is the temp you desire. That connection is for an automation system to have control of the heater on/off. Without that the heater is on its own. That's why I didn't mention it. The OP has a mechanical...

Do you have a spa-side control? If so, open the panel, remove the faceplate, remove the brown 6-terminal connector. See what happens. Those buttons are the cause of most "ghost" operations in a Jandy. No amount of "resetting" will stop the problem if it is in the spa-side remote. It can also...

It is better to keep the heater powered at all times so that the cool-down cycle can work if the heater happened to be running when the system shuts down.

In normal use, a single-speed pool pump will be too hot to touch, around 140 degrees with no problem. If the motor is in the Sun the case will be hotter, but still without issues.

Do you have an automation system that could communicate with the new board? If not, you will get a few additional "bells and whistles," but nothing that will improve the efficiency of the heater. If it works, don't fix it.

Don't worry about that ring too much. The diffuser you list is too large in diameter around the impeller to do what it is supposed to do. The diffuser does two things. It does "diffuse" the pressure in the tank so that the water exits properly, but it also, because of the tight clearance around...

Look closely at that sand. You can see the sharp edges, just as they are supposed to be. Sand virtually never needs replacing, but it is not unusual to need a "top off" if the filter has been in use for five years or more. A bit of sand is lost at each backwash and does need to be replaced...

Old impeller is the proper one to use with that new motor. And it is good to see a .5hp pump in use. Don't worry about the size of your plumbing, it is just right. And, those old Sta-Rite pumps are probably my favorites.

Your new grids are doing what DE grids are supposed to do, letting the DE fall off when the pump stops so that the heavier debris stays at the bottom of the tank and the DE recoats each time the pump re-starts. They are considered "regenerative" filters. If you found DE on the old grids after a...

That impeller, and the old one if it is the same, are 3/4hp, 1.25total horsepower impellers and require a motor of the same rating. Your are correct, if the motor is equal to or greater than the rating of the impeller it works. Your new motor is not equal to the rating of 1.25 total horsepower...

With the orifice in the one jet missing, most all the flow goes there instead of the more restrictive jets with the orifice in them. When you block that one the flow increases to the others and they work as they should. Your spa is "circulating" its just not giving you the jet action you expect...

Those plugs work great. They will even straighten a deformed ladder/rail if installed carefully. There should be a "bottom" to the anchor cups that you have now, it should not be open. No dirt should be getting into that area. Here's a picture of an aluminum one: You can use whatever you need...

Why do you want to use a fireman's switch? They were designed to let a pool heater cool down before the pump shuts off. Your heater has a cool-down cycle built in to its control.

Likely your flame sense rod is "dirty." Pull it out, clean it with something like a Scotch scrubber, or even a new dollar bill (old HVAC trick). Don't use sandpaper, you will remove the coating that protects the rod from the flame. It usually has a single white or yellow wire going to it and is...

Sounds like a short in the wiring or at a device (hi-limit, pressure switch, etc.). It can even be in the temperature control/t'stat. Temporarily jump each device and see if the problem goes away. NEVER operate a pool heater with any of the safety devices bypassed, they are there to keep you...

What impeller are you using? That motor you bought and replaced is designed for a 1/2 horsepower (.95 total horsepower) impeller load. A blocked line will not increase the amp draw of a motor. Since the pump won't be moving any water the load is less. You can't use that motor on a pump that has...

Its a clone of the Pentair Legend, not the Polaris. It has 4 wheels, only two of which drive the cleaner. In the pool industry you really do get what you pay for. If you were selling your house and needed and inexpensive cleaner to last until the sale, I would get that. If you want something...

Not sure about the laws in your locale. Here, as a licensed contractor, I have to provide a warranty that could last up to 10 years on certain improvements. A workmanship warranty is automatically 1 year and the contractor's board can extend that if it goes to arbitration. Have never had that...

Does it continue to "spark?" You'll hear a clicking. The usual issue is that the pilot burner assembly is too dirty at the "fork" for the system to sense that the pilot is lit. The burner assembly is also the "flame sense" component. You can remove the gas line, pull the burner tray out to get...

First, check the depth of the niche the light is in. Your light mounts differently than most others. If it is a Hayward "shallow" niche your options are limited. The Pentair light is thinner than a standard pool light, but you need to get the measurements before purchasing. Also, I don't believe...

Just watch that the bag does not blow off the pipe. As it collects the DE and debris it will clog and the pressure from the pump can caused that.

You're dealing with a pressure vessel that is damaged. It needs to be replaced, sadly. There is the danger of a "catastrophic" failure that could harm someone or cause flood damage. That much water dumped into your yard would not be pretty and can even get under a house foundation. If the pool...

I would always be suspect of any pool part that didn't look right. That side of the seal plate isn't where that half of the seal "seals," but I wouldn't put that back in service if I were doing the repair.

Yes.

There is no switch on terminals 3 and 4. Look on the back.

Along with Pool Stored advice, you just clean the filter, find a speed that allows the heater to work and add 200 or so rpm for a dirty filter and you are good. You don't really get to adjust an EVO to that degree, so just find a speed that works, and one that doesn't. Use the one that does...

Autofill. Looks like you have a low-profile fill valve at the bottom. Yes, that's what is used in a toilet tank.