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Nope, the way you fixed is about right. Here in SoCal, its set in the concrete deck during pouring and its not meant to come out. Kinda sucks.

Sorry, I have no idea what they are talking about. Air switch buttons are installed so that you don't have an issue with wet hands turning on electrical switches usually in spas. A GFI is connected on the pump circuit and has literally no relationship to the air switch. Power source to air...

I've been a spa tech for 30 years plus. Yes, you can remove all of the components and use them for your project. Without any idea of your plan I will mention these things. Any equipment would need to be covered. Electrical connections.need careful thought; distance, GFI needs, wiring size, etc...

I'll be the dissenter on this one. 6 bolts are it, plus the electrical. If you have had any issues with leaks in the plumbing, then replace the whole pump. Using unions on the suction and discharge of the pump will make things much easier to work on in the future.

Sounds like the voltages are wrong. I suggest you verify with a volt meter that your jumpers on the motor board are set for 220v.

Eventually the plastic will pierce the fabric and allow DE to return to the pool. And, of course, it will happen when you host your next big pool party!

I'm not that smart but why are you adding a heat pump and a pool heater? If your flow is going through both, (in series) your filter psi will probably double for certain

Costco? It's Goodwill for me!

It's best to buy a cheap sump pump. It will save you a lot of time to throw it in the pool and not have to change anything with your equipment.

It's not only possible, it is probable. But don't blame your pool tech since the PTest is to confirm where your leak is with the assumption that you would repair said leak. The pressure used in a Ptest is more than the psi in your pipes during its Norman running.

I believe that you can purchase some grip strips that you can put on the fiberglas steps that are similar to the ones that disabled people use in bathtubs to prevent slipping? I have no idea where to find, and they could look cheesey but would solve your issue and probably be able to be...

Well the bottom of the light has a piece that fits a slot and the top of the light has a screw that screws into a threaded tab and hold the light in place. It looks like it's broken off. There is a tool called a light wedge that is used for this problem. Any pool store has this item, on line...

Just turn down the flow to the tail. Or attach the optional tail soap dispenser so your windows come out clean! Sorry, sometimes I want to have fun. LOL

I've sold several of those, yeah, 4-6 years, then the plastic parts start to break. But I love it as a cleaner!

A bad bulb or water in the light will trip the GFI. If your multiport valve is good, and you added DE, then you probably have a broken lateral(s) or you have channeling in your sand. The curious thing is that a broken lateral allows DE and sand to return to the pool.

What you have is a StaRite full size pool light niche. The light in your picture is a Pentair full size light. Normally the Pentair light will fit that niche but it looks like the niche is missing the screw socket at the top. I have no clue what that thing on the deck is.

Use Teflon tape and silicon sealant if necessary.

Usually the pump issue you are describing is a motor set for 220volts and it is only getting 110 volts. The pump goes on and off constantly. Check the back of the motor plate as to the jumper settings and then check the voltage going to the motor and at the time clock or controller. Got a volt...

Ditto to option #2. Take the flow option. .

If able to, put gaskets on both side of the vinyl. The one next to the concrete is problematic but will help a lot. Some silicone sealant is a good idea also.

Yes! A missing nozzle will cause total unbalance in jet flow and power.

Here is my take on this, based on my experience. You mentioned the pressure switch was fixed. Just for your education, if a pressure switch is broken, stuck, or adjusted incorrectly, then your pool heater can continue to fire even after the pump has shut off. The possible result can be a fire...

Actually, I've seen thus situation before. Cause I'm old, I guess. An old pool like this would have the bonding wire attached to the light itself via a bonding lug. Today the bonding wire is hooked to the can, and with the light in place,also bonds the light fixture. You can attach the bonding...

Is the blue suction pad worn down? That will make it stick also

Have you checked the tubing to make sure there is no water in it or the tubing conduit? Generally about 50% of the time is a water issue. I know its a hastle but if you are out of solutions, try pulling the tubing out and see if its wet. Sometimes, water is in the conduit, when you pull new...

Here in Calif. It's to drain water from the pool. Which is idiotic because it never rains here. LOL!

They are attached with a strap kit. You cab go to any reputable pool store and get a universal blanket strap kit for your swivel roller.

Sorry, I meant backwash line,just to make sure the water was no going out there. I was also saying that it seems that you have a pressure side leak and usually most leak detection companies promise to pinpoint the leak. It already looks pretty sure that you have a pressure side leak and if...

By closing the flap, it makes your pool main drain pull water. The float in the valve will drop down in case of low water level and also engage the drain and close off the skimmer, which can save you pump or piping damage.

Yeah, that's what valve #3 is for. I should have recognized that.