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I think I might know why the issue is being brought up - the Primera Stone finish is heavily polished after install, the tile would need to be at just the right height to be able to polish around it, and not damage the tile. They will be using polishing pads to "grind" down the plaster finish...

I used pour-a-lid drains on our deck, they blend in very nicely. https://www.pouralid.com/store/p5/4InchRoundPouradrain.html#/ https://www.pouralid.com

I agree with you ! We need a better system. I have always been frustrated by how limited the Jandy iAqualink interface is. One of the biggest things I see is that it was a design based on PDA ,or whatever they call them (I don't have one). I think they outsourced the software - and it hasn't...

I also often put mine in the skimmer - especially if I am out at the pool for most of an afternoon - I remove it every once in a while to squeeze it which helps to make it dissolve a little faster. I have also found that the Clorox stuff dissolves about 2 times slower than some others I have...

I don't have any photos that I can find - There are just stainless brackets - and then then coping concrete "stones" sit right on the stainless brackets...and on the motor. I see the post above from @steve_NY has some photos - that is pretty much how ours is setup. We just have the concrete deck...

There is always the neighborhood price upgrade. We get that in our little spot here in Santa Cruz. If I can get a quote before someone sees our house it is always lower. I don't mind paying a good hourly rate for a craftsman to do work on our home - but when I feel like I am getting the...

I do see the difference in your lights - the one on the right has no recess, the one on the step is recessed much like my lights are - I have two lights and both of mine are recessed much like the one on your step. It would probably bother me quite a bit if mine were noticeably different. That...

My Jandy lights are recessed just like that as well.

My coping ending up with little stripes that were etched into the concrete...just like the fabric ribs on the sock.

I had tons of trouble with my white nicheless Jandy lights - several warranty replacements - and we hardly use them. Once they replaced them with the new water cooled version they haven't failed. I was looking for future options and found a few that I will use if needed in the future - one is...

Don't hang your sock on the edge of the pool like the picture above (ask me how I know) - it is better to hang it on the end of a pole, or something else, that can keep it off the edge of your pool. CYA is acidic and can etch surfaces.

Big pool day planned - might be last one of the year....but. Yet another wildland fire just over a block away last night has dumped ash on everything - so now I have to do some yard and pool cleanup...hopefully the air clears enough to enjoy a nice 85° day.

I have "old school" dark ones - they look pretty nice compared to white, but yes stubbed toes are part of the issue - especially with a sports pool where you can walk in the deep end. My robot also gets stuck on them.

Very nice looking design I would suggest going with pebble top drain covers like these: https://www.poolfittings.com/channel-pebble-top These covers are one of the only changes I wish we had made. We used pour-a-lid concealed drain covers in the exterior decking and it looks great. Or...

Saturday I did some work on our cover. We ended up with a several tiny pinhole leaks in our cover - I cleaned around them and then used some patch material that came with our cover to fix 4 areas. Looking at the areas where the cover was failing led me to decide I should probably check the...

I wish I could help, but I am in the Jandy cult :eek: There are some others here with lots of Pentair experience who should be able to help - hopefully one will be along shortly.

I have an idea... What about changing some of your retaining walls - giving them a nice curve? The retaining wall you have designed with the steps could have a nice curve to it and still look nice. I did that with my big retaining wall just to break up all of the straight lines. If you need...

I had similar 120v connections in my tub - mine were extra terminals that are part of the 120v power section - I also have some other extra connectors for ozone, UV and an even an AUX connector, but they have a special plug so I just used the push terminals to connect my Saltron....

Another alternative repair is to use Plast-aid - it chemically bonds with ABS, acrylic, and PVC - vs just sitting on the surface like epoxy...I have used it for several PVC repairs and it is pretty amazing how well it does.

I shoot for 30ppm to start and test for it to verify - then after a few weeks I test again (expecting it to have dropped) - if it has dropped I add around 20ppm worth which typically gets me back to the 30ish range.

We are planning to do a fancy back yard modern shed...pool room. If we do one less than 120 sq/ft we can build it without a permit...

I use the 14.5% stuff - it isn't as powerful as the 31% but for a hot tub you need so little it isn't a big deal, and is a little easier to handle. I can't buy the strong stuff at my Home Depot anyway so I stick with the low percentage stuff. I buy the two gallon HDX packs at Home Depot....

I would get Muriatic Acid instead of using dry acid (sodium bisulfate) - less chance of damage to your heater and any other metal parts in the hot tub.

Are you using Sodium Bicarbonate? That is good for raising TA if it is too low - not really for pH control. You should be using Muriatic Acid to lower the pH and lower the TA - aeration will cause the pH rise until you get to a lower TA - so you will need to do MA additions and aeration cycles...

I use diluted 14% acid (final % is around 7%), and the injection rate is so slow that I think the water that is passing through my SWCG is just slightly more acidic - I tested at the nearest return and it was around 6.8 PH. I also turn up my RPM to 2000 from 1000 for 1 minute to keep the water...

I have a newer Jandy system - and while the newer iAqualink setup is adequate - it is still pretty antiquated - I feel like I am still dealing with 80's tech when I use it. It is really just a PDA programmed to be on a web page...There are not any smarts or reporting that even a good 90's...

From my research I don't think doing anything with a automated PH measurement and dispense system is reliable enough. I would stick with a simple tank & pump system. I don't think the complexity of the "Intellichem" setup is worth the hassle, cost, or potential issues. You don't need to be that...

I added a Pentair Acid Tank and Pump to my Jandy system - works perfectly... Here is a post that shows how I did the job - this was thanks to help from several other posters on the site

I have seen a fomous Hot Tub repair guy do some repairs wet on YouTube - he uses Christy's Red Hot Blue PVC glue and primer - primer the joint and the fitting, add the glue to both sides and put the part(s) on quickly

So far it is holding up - this month it is 6 years old.