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Perfect. Start by lowering your PH to a target of 7.2. Once you've added the acid, let the pump run for about 30 minutes and go straight into SLAM mode. CYA 30 is perfect for SLAM. Add enough bleach to get to 12 PPM FC, test and add back to 12 as often as possible but not more than every...

Welcome to the forum. I assume your location ne is Nebraska? If so, I'm also in Nebraska. Let's start with the basics. How are you testing the water? The system on this site is based on owner testing and adding only the chemicals which the water needs and the owner knowing the outcome...

Welcome to the forum. The methods taught here are different than you'll find recommended by the pool store. We do not trust their testing either. IF their testing is correct, you are primed for an algae bloom right now. You have some choices ahead of you. The method taught here is built...

I cannot help you with the Pentair Racer. However, your comment about the big dust cloud caught my attention. How do you chlorinate your water, pucks in the chlorine feeder? And, do you have the capability to test your water? I don't see a test kit in your signature. I'm concerned about low...

If you have recharged with the proper DE, it will filter the food grade DE. It will probably take some time. DE filters typically filter down to around 3 micron. 3 micron is smaller than a human red blood cell. In other words, if you can see it the DE will catch it. Scrub like crazy and run...

You'll certainly learn this as you go, but thought I would tell you that the algaecide probably didn't do much for you in the past. Algaecide is a terrible name for what it does, it's primary purpose is prevention of algae and does little to nothing when it comes to killing algae, this site...

Higher CYA is recommended for SWG pools because the cells produce chlorine slowly. It helps protect the chlorine from the sun. There are other reasons which better chemists than I can explain, but you'll notice that the Minimum and Target FC are also lower for SWG pools. I've read that is...

The Cal-hypo shock added chlorine and calcium. The "bac pacs" added chlorine and CYA. The "Black Algaecide" was probably simply a waste and it likely added some copper to your water. I'd hold off on any additions other than 5ppm of that liquid 12.5% you have (it adds chlorine and salt)...

Unfortunately, without a good reliable test kit we are not going to be much help to you. How many gallons is your pool? You might consider a full drain and refill. Otherwise, you'll want to get a good test kit on order we recommend the TF100 from tftestkits.net or the Taylor K2006C. While...

Have you looked at this thread? https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/vinyl-liner-pattern-roundup-project-post-pic-name-of-your-liner.116729/

So sorry for your loss. I'm sure you feel a little lost with more than just the pool. The people here will help you. If you've read on this site much, you'll know that we do not put a lot of stock in pool store testing. The method we follow is based on owner testing and adding only the...

Love seeing Nebraskan's show up here! A warm welcome to you from Kearney!

Looks like you are into SLAM mode. Consider your CYA 60 and follow the FC/CYA chart. Keep FC at SLAM level until the water is clear, CC is .5 or lower and you pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. From there, let FC drift back down to the target zone and maintain. You're doing well!

You have a good test kit. Good job on that. Start with CYA. Add enough dry acid to get to 30ppm. Use that handy PoolMath app to calculate how much you need. Put the acid in an old sock, or pantyhose and hang it in front of your return. Squeeze the sock every 15 minutes or so to help it...

The TFP method is built on owner testing and only adding chemicals to the pool that it needs and knowing the outcome. Phos Free is useless to this method. As for the shock, since you don't know exactly what it is, you probably shouldn't put it in the pool. I wish I knew of an option to help...

I tend to err on the side of caution. Therefore, I wouldn’t recommend adjusting anything until you have a valid set of tests. If your Taylor kit is supposed to arrive this week, I’d recommend that you add 5 ppm FC liquid bleach to the pool every day until your kit arrives. That should at least...

Looks about right. Keep up with the SLAM. It’ll clear.

You're doing fine. Keep FC at SLAM level for your CYA (16), try not to go above as that will just waste bleach and risk damage. Test often and dose as necessary until you pass the three SLAM criteria. 1. CC at 0.5 or lower 2. Pass an OCLT. 3 Water is crystal clear, Here is the FC/CYA chart...

Can you post a picture of the current state of the water? It sounds to me like you are on track and doing the right things. I've only ever had to perform 1 SLAM, it took 9 days to complete. I've seen many threads here that took anywhere from a few days to well over 10. Patience may be key...

SLAM level for CYA 30 is 12. Keeping FC between 20-30 is wasteful, possibly damaging to your pool and will not make the SLAM complete faster. Are you brushing every day? As you know, the SLAM is complete when the three criteria are met. 1. CC is 0.5 or lower 2. Pass an OCLT 3. Water is...

Welcome. Good to see more Nebraska folks here! The Pool Math subscription is separate from the forum support donations.

Take out the tabs and follow the SLAM process. Your CYA is perfect right now for a SLAM, but the tabs are going to continue to raise the CYA. SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain - Trouble Free Pool

I just saw your signature. You have good test kit. Please re-run the CYA test using a diluted sample. See the extended test directions in Pool School. Start at step 8. Let us know what that level truly is.

Cya 100. Where did that result come from? Pool store? Your CYA is possibly/probably much higher than 100, but you need to know for sure. Do you have your own test kit? If not, you’ll want to get one. TF-100 from tftestkits.net is the kit many of us use. You likely have an algae bloom that...

I don't expect you'll get many people here that would recommend it. I certainly wouldn't, copper is one of the last things I would knowingly add to my pool water. Since your CYA is 80, I'd advise you to bite the bullet and install a SWG and follow the FC/CYA chart for SWG (80 is perfect) or...

TA and PH go hand in hand. Lower TA and your PH rise should slow down. TA will come down naturally as you add acid to bring down the PH. You could try to force your TA down to 60, or even 50. Or, you could wait and add acid when needed and let the TA drop on its own. How high are you...

I'd suggest an OCLT. Your description sounds to me like live algae.

It's hard to say from the pictures. You could do an OCLT. That should tell you if there is anything in the water that shouldn't be. Maybe also post a full set of test results.

30% of your water will only drop CYA into the 80's range. That is still a bit high for a manually chlorinated pool. I'm confused, your sig shows you have a Salt water generator, why have you been using trichlor tabs all this time?

I'd say ditch the pressure side cleaners and go with a robot. I have the Maytronics Dolphin M400 and LOVE it.