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If the issue is only in the spa, I’d leave the rest alone. Losing color probably wouldn’t be a reason to replace anything f as it’s a somewhat common issue. Calcium nodules would be another thing if water is leaking through the shell. I’d try visiting a few local pool shops and ask if they...

Turn the SWG off and add it anywhere it’s easy to sweep around so it dissolves quickly. Wait an hour and test the salt level to make sure it’s right and adjust if needed, wait 24hours for it to fully dissolve and then turn the SWG back on

X2. I’m literally replumbing my pad to get rid of the unnecessary unions. I had one break on me before I closed and replacements are slightly different so I have to cut stuff anyway and won’t need to deal with leaking o-rings anymore.

Something is wrong if you don’t get at least 5 years out of the cell. Replacement cells also tend to be cheaper than the original, but with inflation lately that may not be true anymore.

I had the exact same thing happen, but only 23-ish years old. But I realized I never drained the heater during the winter freezes either and so water sitting stagnant in there was likely contributing to the rust. Remove it from the plumbing until it’s replaced.

The bullets he listed in the reply is how you backwash the filter: Backwash instructions: Turn pump off. Turn filter handle to backwash. Turn pump on. When the sight glass runs clear, turn pump off. Turn handle to Rinse. Turn pump on. When the sight glass runs clear, turn pump off. Turn handle...

The answer is no, there’s not really any reliable automated testing/dosing systems yet.

Can you post the actual test results? “Near zero” isn’t close enough to judge. If you have some long term data to look through, that would help as well. Generally speaking we recommend keeping the CSI slightly less than zero to avoid scaling and also note that CSI and LSI aren’t the same thing.

Hard to say how long it’ll last but spray paint rust converter won’t do much unless that’s all just surface rust.

It should be set to whatever voltage is coming through the wires. Measure it to be sure. 😉

Don’t empty it until you get the test kit and get actual numbers. Don’t do anything based on guessing. There’s no reason to replace the water every three years if the test results are ok.

One of your skimmer pictures shows the basket lifted up and debris is bypassing the basket. You may want to clean out both skimmers very well and make sure the basket sits down correctly. Hopefully there isn’t a blockage from that.

I’d recommend testing and logging your tests more often. You have some odd results in the log and it’d be easier to track down what’s going on.

Yes, the valve allows water back into the pool. The contractor will remove any water that does flow during the process, but it’s generally not going to be a problem if there’s no ground water.

It’s a heat pump not a heater. A heater heats the water directly and a heat pump transfers heat from the environment into the pool water. If the environment isn’t warm, then there’s not much to transfer to the water. They’re saying it’s an expensive piece of equipment that may not work very well.

Ideally your TA should settle around 60ppm, but if you are adding fill water to make up for evaporation, that’s likely increasing your TA. When you add acid to lower the pH, the TA will go down a tiny bit. As long as TA is above 50ppm then leave it alone. The higher you raise the TA, th me...

Anything that adds copper is something to stay away from. The goofy minerals and clarifiers stuff also doesn’t work well. I’d return it if you are able. Regular salt systems work in above ground pools. There’s no difference.

Scooping leaves out is never a bad idea. You can drop a sump pump in there to mix the water up if you want to add chlorine.

Is the HTH comparator tube designed to use the crushed up tablets for CYA or the normal Taylor reagents? How old are the reagents? You use whatever the latest test results are. Earlier test could have been error especially if the sample wasn’t 70F. Don’t sweat it, just go forward. I’d probably...

CYA does not drop unless you replace water, though it can degrade 5-10ppm each month. Which test kit are you using?

before it gets to your filter, it would have to go through your pool pump impeller, and all the 1.5”-2” piping underground without getting clogged or breaking the pump. You don’t want to do that. 😉 The robot is designed to get big stuff rather than you having to brush and sweep up debris by...

the pressure cleaner will last much longer than that even in a mildly salty pool. The robots fail because of electrical problems, not salty water.

No one here will believe Leslie’s testing. Get one of the TFP recommended kits and test it yourself. Looks like plaster wearing off rather than scaling (which is a buildup of calcium)

Got some recent water test logs to review?

Wouldn’t pumping off the water from the cover be wise, or is that helping to keep the cover from becoming a sail in the wind?

Only other option is electronic robot. Those have their own upsides and downsides.

You didn’t need any baking soda and you can lighten up on the acid and let the pH get up to 7.8 and your CSI will be more normal range.

Subcontractor: just tell him exactly how you want it done and ask if he has any alternate suggestions to consider. It’s not rude or unexpected. Plaster folks: let them decide on thickness but you can tell them any minimum thickness. But tell them what brand and color you want if you know in...

I have a quart measuring cup set aside to grab a big sample of water and bring that inside to test at a bathroom sink.

TA higher than 60ppm.