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That price seems fair, I know the approx cost of your liner.

Arts and crafts might have caused a poorly glued elbow at the bottom of that pipe.

Cover off if no wind, cover on if windy. Remember wind cools.

You would be better imo to just let the paver guys put the new pavers as they want them, then use new paver or grass anchors. I would use the longer grass 9nes because they will need to bite fully into the existing cements. Paver anchors won’t fully seat in my experience.

No to foam floors and imo no to foam on walls, because it makes it easier to poke holes accidentally in the liner.

No DIY will matching the efficiency of manufactured ones. Many have tried and many have failed.

Make sure the liner is measured after the new pour.

How do you get your salt water pool to be unique? You neak up on it….aka, add half bags at a time.

It’s fixed now, just use your old information and even reload the app.

Replace and lube a new oring in that union.

Just remember that when air leaks are ruled out, it can only be two more things, suction side or pressure side has a restriction of some sort. Are you certain you don’t have a compromised pipe on the suction side?

Add to the above, if water is too high on the face of skimmer this will reduce surface skimming.

I would be highly suspicious of your skimmer.

Maytronics Dolphin has cordless robots, there is a reason they are number 1.

Wiggle, wiggle while pouring water on the vertical SS rail.

BTW, sand bottoms are easier to install new liners. Kicking and adjusting the liner is way easier with sand vs concrete and vermiculite.

No, no and no. First, you use vacuums to pull a new liner tight before filling, turning the vacuums off allows for adjustments to remove wrinkles. Wrinkles, even minor, that are not smoothed out become worse after the fill starts. Plus once water goes into the pool, that new liner is slippery...

That bits just going to end up in your pump basket is my opinion, but just to be sure it won’t get into the pump impeller, you could take a similarly sized bit and see if it will go through the holes in the pump basket.

Go with the 1.5” elbows

Simple, after you remove a screw, place a plug in it the same size as the opening of the new faceplate. I always keep 4 pieces of dowel in my truck for this. Then put new faceplate over the plugs, remove one at a time and insert the screw.

Easy enough to do, make sure to note where any existing anchors are in case the shingles get replaced. Those straps are very important to hold down the panels in big winds.

Normally one would want the pool plumbed in this manner, pump to solar, solar to heat pump, then the salt cell. The Chlorine the cell produces can do damage to your panels.

No, that’s not normally how they should sit after the snow melts off it, the springs should be pulling it taut. Your photos seem to show that they installed the anchors too close and that’s limiting just how tight it can be. A small dip is ok but not that big, it looks very very loose to my...

Dead algae goes poof into the water when brushed, other particles just push along, I suspect that’s what you’re seeing.

Short answer imo, is no, there is no way to secure a wall anchor into that stacked wall. You could get a winter cover that locks into the top bead though, but they are not safety covers.

Simple, delivery costs for any liquid's have skyrocketed

I don’t because I can do more pools in one day plus I don’t have to lug my pump and hoses all day long.

Block off plates are only useful to those of us that,don’t want to lower water and want to clear the skimmer of all water. Plate in, gizmo in, blow to remove water in line, remove gizmo as needed to let the sitting water go back down the line, blower On until you’ve got it all gone, cap it then...

Every return needs a bungee plug, if only using 1 then the other lines never clear of water. I’ve been using bungee plugs since they came out on all my pools, zero issues.

Just an FYI, Richard didn’t figure out this ratio, it was Ben Powell from the old Pool Forum. I believe Richard took the industry to task regarding their poor understanding of CYA. We used to use 7-11-40 with 11% being your target level. That got bumped down to 7.5%. Certainly a far cry from the...