Pressure Testing

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tylerharm29

Member
Jan 5, 2025
15
Omaha, NE
Looking for some recommendations on pressure testing. My local plumbing inspector requires 50psi of water or air to hold for 15 minutes. I’m using water and was having problems blowing out cheap rubber plugs (Sioux Chief Test Titan brand) at 30psi that were in my main drains. Since these are end of pipe plugs they don’t fit inside a 1.5” male threaded coupler fitting very well. The more I research, the plugs I’m using aren’t rated for 50psi so my question is, can I just use a schedule 40 pvc threaded plug to test at 50psi for my returns and skimmers? I’ll need to figure out something for my main drains still so I’ll take any recommendations on this.

Also, I finally got everything to hold at 30 psi last night but when I got up this morning, the gauge read 15 psi, plugs still holding. I noticed all of my returns and skimmers had water dripping near where the threaded coupling meets the skimmer or return fitting. Before I cut these out and reapply thread tape, is there any recommendations on how many times I should go around the fittings with thread tape? I believe I went around twice and screwed them in all the way so I’m a little baffled at how they would be leaking. I recharged the system to 30 psi this morning and could see water dripping at these locations.
 

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tylerharm29 said:
can I just use a schedule 40 pvc threaded plug to test at 50psi for my returns and skimmers?
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Yes.

tylerharm29 said:
Also, I finally got everything to hold at 30 psi last night but when I got up this morning, the gauge read 15 psi, plugs still holding. I noticed all of my returns and skimmers had water dripping near where the threaded coupling meets the skimmer or return fitting. Before I cut these out and reapply thread tape, is there any recommendations on how many times I should go around the fittings with thread tape? I believe I went around twice and screwed them in all the way so I’m a little baffled at how they would be leaking. I recharged the system to 30 psi this morning and could see water dripping at these locations.
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PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

The "Do's and Don'ts" of Assembling Threaded Plastic Fittings from Lasco Fittings, now Westlake Pipe & Fittings, provided a great explanation of the Do’s and Don’ts not to have threaded fittings crack.

From the Lasco article:
  • Don't over-tighten joints by giving them "one more turn to be sure.”
  • Do finger tighten plus one or two turns - No More.
  • Don't use "stronger" Schedule 80 threaded fittings, assuming they may solve the problem of splitting through over-tightening.
  • Use only Schedule 40 threaded fittings with Schedule 40 pipe and fittings.
  • Don't wrap Teflon tape, paste, or pipe dope to add bulk or lubricate the joint.
  • Do use a sealant for threaded joints.
  • A sealing compound must be compatible with plastics. Many brands of pipe sealant contain oils, solvents, or carriers that can damage plastic. A proper sealant must be certified by the manufacturer to be harmless to the fitting material and not to contaminate fluid in the pipe. Finally, a sealing compound must not lubricate the joint to encourage over-tightening. Several sealants on the market meet all these requirements.
Pentair has the label below on some MPVs saying to use Plasto-Joint Stik only and not Teflon paste or pipe dope on the threads. Take the Plasto-Joint Stik and drag it across the threads as you rotate. Pentair also says to tighten hand tight, plus 1 1/2 turns maximum.
 
I decided to make the switch to Rectorseal T + 2 although I did see chlorine listed on their label as not suitable for use. It’s actually listed on all of their thread sealant products. Anyone else have problems with this? Should I head this warning? The rectorseal worked on 2 out of 3 of my return fittings so it looks like I get to cut out another one and try again. I’ll probably replace the return fitting and the threaded male coupler since I have extra.

The pvc plugs work great for testing the returns and skimmers but for the main drains, the style I have from Hayward has a threaded female connection on the side of the housing where I use a threaded male adapter to connect. My issue with this is as I’m pressure testing, I end up plugging the inside of the threaded male adapter and no water sees the threads of the main drain housing. How do I ensure this isn’t leaking before I cover everything in concrete/poolcrete?

Attached are some photos of the main drains, threaded male adapter and plug in using.
 

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I would redo things with a sealant that chlorine will not breakdown.

I would use Plasto-Joint Stik. Take the Plasto-Joint Stik and drag it across the threads as you rotate. Then tighten hand tight, plus 1 1/2 turns maximum.

www.epoolsupply.com

Plasto Joint-Stik (11775)

Plasto Joint-Stik (11775) Teflon based thread sealant suitable for all ABS and PVC applications. Heat Resistant up to 250 Degrees. Ships Free to U.S.
www.epoolsupply.com www.epoolsupply.com

1748142795833.png
 
New inground installation. I had all 3 return fittings leak on the backside of the pool wall when I started the pressure test. I cut out all 3 fittings, cleaned off the thread tape and applied rectorseal T plus 2 to all 3 threaded connections and 2 of the 3 held. Upon further reading, I see that chlorine is listed as not recommended for rectorseal T plus 2. I was wondering if anyone had similar issues with this. Since I need to cut out one of the fittings I’m considering just redoing all 3 again with an approved thread sealant or just retrying thread tape. The more I research, the more I question how long and good of a seal I will have underground. I’m looking to make sure I have this as done correctly before I backfill. Attached is a photo for reference.
 

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tylerharm29 said:
I question how long and good of a seal I will have underground.
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Do you have threaded pipe or connections underground? Have you done any type of pressure test to confirm all is good? This can be done with air and using an air inflator with proper fittings.

tylerharm29 said:
I’m looking to make sure I have this as done correctly before I backfill. Attached is a photo for reference.
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Will all 3 returns be covered once you backfill? Will it be accessible for future repairs.

tylerharm29 said:
Photo on the back of rectorseal T plus 2. Looks like number 7 is the one to use but nobody sells it around here.
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My view is that rating is for a pure chlorine type of fluid - such that may be found in a chemical plant. Your pool is 10ppm on average.

Personally, I have more faith in teflon thread tape if properly applied. however, there is a product called Plumber’s Pal which is a teflon type of sealant. I have never used it but it is an alternative to teflon tape.
 
HermanTX said:
Do you have threaded pipe or connections underground? Have you done any type of pressure test to confirm all is good? This can be done with air and using an air inflator with proper fittings.
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Yes, threaded connections to the back of the returns and bottom of the skimmers. All plumbing is 2” schedule 40 PVC. I have pressure tested using water and failed at these threaded connections. Slow leaks but loses pressure.
HermanTX said:
ill all 3 returns be covered once you backfill? Will it be accessible for future repairs
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All will be covered with concrete, inaccessible. Beginning to rethink that approach but not sure how that will look if I used pavers or something else.
HermanTX said:
My view is that rating is for a pure chlorine type of fluid - such that may be found in a chemical plant. Your pool is 10ppm on average.
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that was the feeling I had. Haven’t confirmed though. I will retry with Teflon tape on the one that is leaking. Attached are a few more photos of the build and plumbing for reference. Was planning on 4ft of concrete around the perimeter.
 

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Thanks for the photos. It provides a better understanding of your issues.
My suggestion
Clean the male and female parts to remove grit and old thread tape.
Put one wrap of teflon tape.
Put some of the plumbers pal on it or equivalent thread seal.
Wait for all to dry or whatever time they state on the thread seal
Test all with air or water
 
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