New pool owner trying to understand test strip reading

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PoolStored said:
Start now. HP are not great at raising temps, they are great at maintaining temps. I turned my gas on now for tomorrow and Friday.
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Heat pump raised the water temp from 68 degrees to 76 degrees from 6pm yesterday to 6pm today. I think that is pretty quick. Was expecting slower. Especially because the temps were only in the low 70s today and temps last night were in the 50s
 
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Thoughts on this week’s reading?
- I’m definitely raising my SWG % back up a little
- do I add calcium or is that fine?
- leave pH alone now and TA will slowly come down?
 

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Near perfect, but move the Cl up. See what the 10% bump for the SWCG does after a day. With vinyl, CH doesn't matter - unless your heat pump requires something else AND you are still in warranty. Your pH may rise, due to the highish TA. When it gets to 8 or above, add acid. With future acid adds, it will slowly come down, and your pool will need less and less adds.
Note that above Cl of 10, the pH reading will not be correct.
 
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sande005 said:
Near perfect, but move the Cl up. See what the 10% bump for the SWCG does after a day. With vinyl, CH doesn't matter - unless your heat pump requires something else AND you are still in warranty. Your pH may rise, due to the highish TA. When it gets to 8 or above, add acid. With future acid adds, it will slowly come down, and your pool will need less and less adds.
Note that above Cl of 10, the pH reading will not be correct.
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Good to know of the chlorine reassign if pH is at 10
 

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sande005 said:
I'd go 20% now, and dial down later. Better to have a little too much, than not enough.
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So just checked chlorine levels again.

And I got:
5.5 FC (down from 6 yesterday even though I raised the SWG from 6% to 20%)
6 TC

Should I raise the SWG to 40%? We are having some people over to swim today
 
Hey guys. I’m leaving for the weekend on Friday and want to get the chemical balancing squared away today and tomorrow. Here is tonight’s reading.

With chlorine over 10. I know pH can not be accurate but do you think I should add some muriatic acid?

I’m going to lower the SWG to 20%.

Add a little CYA?

Thanks as always.
 

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CYA is fine.
If you have distilled water, fill your pH test 1/2 way with distilled, the remainder with pool water and report pH. If not, ignore it.
Your IC 40 adds 2.9FC per day. Your FC went from 6 to 12 for 3 days or +2 per day...so 20% seems reasonable.
 
PoolStored said:
CYA is fine.
If you have distilled water, fill your pH test 1/2 way with distilled, the remainder with pool water and report pH. If not, ignore it.
Your IC 40 adds 2.9FC per day. Your FC went from 6 to 12 for 3 days or +2 per day...so 20% seems reasonable.
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No distilled water here unfortunately. So the higher pH is probably because the higher chlorine?
 
Pas_pool said:
No distilled water here unfortunately. So the higher pH is probably because the higher chlorine?
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Do the pH test quickly. Like 5 drops, invert read. Then watch for 60 seconds. If the hues go more purple, your initial test is accurate, go ahead and lower pH. With a TA of 110, your pH can handle it while you are away.
 
PoolStored said:
Do the pH test quickly. Like 5 drops, invert read. Then watch for 60 seconds. If the hues go more purple, your initial test is accurate, go ahead and lower pH. With a TA of 110, your pH can handle it while you are away.
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What do you mean by an invert read? I can do it tomorrow morning or when I get home from work
 
PoolStored said:
Put the sample in the comparator, drop 5 drops and quickly cap, invert and read the result against the comparator colors. No hesitation.
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Still looks like 8.2. Should I add muriatic acid to bring it down to like 7.2?
 

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