Low Chlorine/High PH

costanzoeric said:

Good afternoon,

I’ve browsed a few threads here and have looked over pool school and somewhat got the answer I was looking for, but still don’t have a firm next step as I am very new to this.

Pool is 14000 gallons. Salt water with Hayward salt cell. Using Taylor 2006 testing kit. Pool was installed a couple of months ago. I originally had very high chlorine, around 20. Did a partial discharge and refill and adjusted the SWG and had the chlorine and other levels just about perfect for a few weeks.

My problem now is low chlorine, possibly 0, but I’ll say .5-1 and PH around 8. CYA is around 55. I have the chlorinator at 20% for 4 hours per day.

Any help would be appreciated!

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• FC of 0 means that your chlorine is being consumed faster that you are adding it with the cell. (or the cell isn't working).
• UV increases in spring through summer, as a result, your FC demand (daily use) will go up. It will go back down in the fall.
• 3-5ppm is typical FC demand in the summer, depending on latitude, etc.
• You need to compensate for that by turning up your output %, or run time to keep up the the FC demand. And turn it down in fall.
• Always round your CYA up to the next 10, your CYA is 60.
• You should keep your FC at the top of the recommended range for your CYA. Link-->FC/CYA Levels
• Now that you have gotten to 0, add liquid chlorine to get back to range...it may take the cell a while at high output continuously to raise FC.
• Do you have PoolMath? Use it to calculate, then add LC to get to FC target for your CYA.
• Also use it to figure out how to add enough output% and runtime to add 3ppm per day to your pool. Then use those poolmath recommendations, and change the runtime and output% on your pump and cell. We can fine tune from there.
• And because you got to 0, it may be that you have algae, even if you can't see it.
• Do an overnight chlorine loss test that @Bperry indicated. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
• You Fail, you SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process