Water Test 5-8-2025

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Maverick2022

Maverick2022

Member
Apr 25, 2023
8
Grafton OH
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I just got my pool tested, and below are the results. Is there a reason my Free Chlorine is the same as the Total Chlorine, do I need to super chlorinate?
I have a pool heater. Do I need to increase my calcium within range to help balance my metals to preserve my heating element? Do you suggest I balance my hardness or phosphates first?


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That is pool store testing which is inherently suspect. We recommend you buy your own recommended test kit such as a K2006 or a TF-100. Then you test your own water and decide with the guidance of this forum what you should put in your water. Per that test you APPEAR to have 8 ppm of chlorine in the pool. If FC and TC are the same and this test is somewhat accurate then you are okay there. How are you chlorinating your pool? The CH depends on the type of pool you have along with your equipment. TA is okay, PH is good, CYA is okay, phosphates is a non-issue and iron and copper are non-issues unless you have some staining in the pool. Can you create your signature (click your screen name at the top of the screen and go to Signature) with the deets of your pool and equipment? Follow the following links:
Pool Care Basics
PoolMath
Test Kits Compared
FC/CYA Levels
 
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Thank you! I did update my signature, so that should help to answer my equipment questions (3" tablet chlorinator, Sand Dollar SD40 sand filter. The pool store the phosphates should be below 100 ppb so algae doesn't have anything to help grow. My chlorine is high, so I don't see why I would have algae, water is clear too.
 
Only a proper FAS/DPD drop test will give you the correct readings you need including Combined Chlorine (CC which is chlorine working on organics (you don't want this)), will give you the results you want. A properly balanced pool with a healthy FC level based on your CYA level doesn't care about phosphates. Hopefully you're not using the tablet feeder as tablets either add CYA or CH which you want to control, not just blindly add. Use liquid chlorine only. You many not have algae but only proper testing with one of the recommended kits will tell you that.
 
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Maverick2022 said:
The pool store the phosphates should be below 100 ppb so algae doesn't have anything to help grow. My chlorine is high, so I don't see why I would have algae, water is clear too.
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That's the general though process here. If you keep your chlorine at the correct levels (which is higher than pool store recommendations) you won't have algae and don't need to worry about phosphates.
 
TinFoilHat said:
Only a proper FAS/DPD drop test will give you the correct readings you need including Combined Chlorine (CC which is chlorine working on organics (you don't want this)), will give you the results you want. A properly balanced pool with a healthy FC level based on your CYA level doesn't care about phosphates. Hopefully you're not using the tablet feeder as tablets either add CYA or CH which you want to control, not just blindly add. Use liquid chlorine only. You many not have algae but only proper testing with one of the recommended kits will tell you that.
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I am using the Hayward CL200 as my chlorinator with a check valve between my feeder and heater outlet to avoid highly concentrated chlorine from corroding my heating elements. I titrate the chlorinator level to 1, which maintains my CYA & Chlorine levels.
 
Maverick2022 said:
Yep, that’s why I’m here. What are the downsides of the tablet chlorinator feeder?
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Every dissolved 8oz tablet adds approximately 2ppm cya to your pool.
* If your cya is already 90 (84 counts as 90 for chlorination purposes) then you already have too much cya.
Your fc (if accurate) is not “high” for your cya level. In fact its not even in target range.
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You should switch to using liquid chlorine for daily chlorination now to avoid problems and prevent your cya from rising further.
A little dip in your fc level now will put you below minimum and getting rid of algae with a cya of 90 requires alot of chlorine
IMG_2869.jpeg
 
Mdragger88 said:
Every dissolved 8oz tablet adds approximately 2ppm cya to your pool.
* If your cya is already 90 (84 counts as 90 for chlorination purposes) then you already have too much cya.
Your fc (if accurate) is not “high” for your cya level. In fact its not even in target range.
View attachment 644527
You should switch to using liquid chlorine for daily chlorination now to avoid problems and prevent your cya from rising further.
A little dip in your fc level now will put you below minimum and getting rid of algae with a cya of 90 requires alot of chlorine
View attachment 644529
Click to expand...
Great, thank you. Pool stores seem to love to sell you on unnecessary equipment especially to new pool owners. Just need to check chlorine levels each week?
 

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Just need to check chlorine levels each week?
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There's a little more to it than that. I would suggest you start by reading "ABC's of pool water chemistry" up in Pool School.

It'll give you a much better understanding about how to manage your chemistry (one week intervals will not be frequent enough)
 
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Maverick2022 said:
I am using the Hayward CL200 as my chlorinator with a check valve between my feeder and heater outlet to avoid highly concentrated chlorine from corroding my heating elements.
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The acid sludge from the pucks eats the chlorinator valve when the pump is off. Then it eats the sacrificial check valve. Then it eats the heater.

How old is the pool ?
 
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