Broken pipes

Jump to latest Follow Reply
D

drsaxman

Well-known member
Jun 21, 2022
55
Mooresville, NC
This was an unpleasant surprise. A small branch (like 1" in diameter and very light) managed to do this damage during a wind storm. Fortunately the heater valves were turned off. I'm wondering how this could happen? Could it be attributed to not having water running through the lines?
I've propped up the bottom pipe that goes to the chlorinator with bricks as to not put strain on that section of pipe.

I'm also looking for guidance on the best strategy to repair this. I'm guessing that I'm going to have to replace the two 3-way valves, the check valve, but not sure about the flow sensor or the temperature sensor. Any guidance and suggestions you have are much appreciated! I imagine all the pvc has been glued together. I'm hoping to do this myself (I don't have much plumbing experience but am handy) and hoping to not to have to replumb the entire system. Certainly the output to the drain and the section running from the pump to the filter could remain intact. HELP!!!

Thanks,
DanIMG_3110.jpgIMG_3004.jpg
 
Get a PVC socket saver. It will ream out the remaining PVC in the valve. Socket saver the union on the heater, or get a new union, then just build the connection with Schedule 40 PVC. Do not use DWV pvc.
 
  • Like
Reactions: drsaxman
Another option: the diverter valves will accept a fitting one size bigger on the outside of the socket. That should take care of the valve side.

1746119290101.png
Can't really see the heater side where the pipe connects to the union.
 
  • Like
Reactions: drsaxman
Those sweeps all look like DWV sweeps with small hubs. Do they have Schedule 40 markings on them?

As was said a socket saver can limit the PVC work to the two heater pipes.

See this page at plumbingsupply.com for pictures of how their PVC Fitting Savers work.

Home Depot sells a less expensive 2 in. Socket Saver by JONES STEPHENS.

Pasco has a PVC Ram Bit on page C-1, like the Jones Stephens socket saver. Unfortunately, Pasco says they don't sell to the public.

There are videos on YouTube showing how a socket saver works. See PVC/ABS Socket Saver Instructional Video By: Everything Home TV and 4 GENIUS Ways To Remove Glued PVC Fittings | GOT2LEARN

Read through PVC Repair - Further Reading
 
  • Like
Reactions: drsaxman
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Another option: the diverter valves will accept a fitting one size bigger on the outside of the socket. That should take care of the valve side.

View attachment 642132
Can't really see the heater side where the pipe connects to the union.
Click to expand...
He can try dry fitting it that way but I think the length of the coupler will then require more twists and turns in the pipe to fit in the space.
 
  • Like
Reactions: drsaxman and Rancho Cost-a-Lotta
Assuming 2" plumbing I'm with @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta. Cut the broken internal joints off flush and use either a 2-1/2 inch 90 or coupler on the outside hub of the valves. The bottom of 1 joint has to be reworked anyway and the other seems to have DWV fittings so it should be replaced as well. Can you shoot some pictures of the bottom of the pluming runs?
 
drsaxman said:
This was an unpleasant surprise. A small branch (like 1" in diameter and very light) managed to do this damage during a wind storm. Fortunately the heater valves were turned off. I'm wondering how this could happen? Could it be attributed to not having water running through the lines?
I've propped up the bottom pipe that goes to the chlorinator with bricks as to not put strain on that section of pipe.

I'm also looking for guidance on the best strategy to repair this. I'm guessing that I'm going to have to replace the two 3-way valves, the check valve, but not sure about the flow sensor or the temperature sensor. Any guidance and suggestions you have are much appreciated! I imagine all the pvc has been glued together. I'm hoping to do this myself (I don't have much plumbing experience but am handy) and hoping to not to have to replumb the entire system. Certainly the output to the drain and the section running from the pump to the filter could remain intact. HELP!!!

Thanks,
DanView attachment 642124View attachment 642125
Click to expand...
Cut the broken parts flush with the valves, install 2" pipe extenders, replumb. Do that wherever needed. Likely won't be able to use sweeps as you will lose some room that way, but with a VSP you won't really notice any difference.
 
Lake Placid said:
Assuming 2" plumbing I'm with @Rancho Cost-a-Lotta. Cut the broken internal joints off flush and use either a 2-1/2 inch 90 or coupler on the outside hub of the valves. The bottom of 1 joint has to be reworked anyway and the other seems to have DWV fittings so it should be replaced as well. Can you shoot some pictures of the bottom of the pluming runs?
Click to expand...
Here is the rest of the plumbing. The heater is completely broken and needs to be replaced. There is no fixing that thing and I've tried a couple of times. The circuit board is also fried.
IMG_3142.jpg



IMG_3143.jpg
 
Last edited:
drsaxman said:
It is schedule 40, however some sections are ASTM D 1785 and other sections are ASTM D 2665.
Click to expand...

PVC Repair - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Pool PVC (polyvinyl chloride) should be marked "Schedule 40". Schedule 40 PVC is made for water under pressure. If the pipe has ASTM D 1785 on the pipe, it's suitable for pressure applications. A rating of ASTM D 2665 means non-pressure applications and should not be used for pools.

A pipe can be dual-rated ASTM D 1785 and ASTM D 2665, but it has to say ASTM D 1785 if used for pressure.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I believe your heater unions, like the diverter valves, will accept a fitting (elbow, tee, coupler) of one larger size (2.5"). Use a reducer bushing on the other side of the fitting (2.5" to 2"). A pipe reamer is the other option.
 
drsaxman said:
Here is the rest of the plumbing. The heater is completely broken and needs to be replaced. There is no fixing that thing and I've tried a couple of times. The circuit board is also fried.
View attachment 643919



View attachment 643920
Click to expand...
If the pipes are cut flush with the heater fitting and the valve, and have no cracks in the part left in each, a 2" pipe extender can be used and then the rest re-plumbed as needed. You may not be able to use sweeps afterward, but with a VSP it won't really affect much in the way of flow at slower speeds, or even the higher speed used for the spa.

If there are cracks in the pipe left in the union or valve it needs to be removed or it will leak. Then, you can use a pipe reamer to remove that.
https://www.amazon.com/Pasco-3244-2-ram-bit/dp/B00SSKN0OC
For years I used this type. There are more expensive ones, but this is probably a one-and-done for you.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply