Sta-rite Max E Therm 333HD

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Aug 15, 2017
7,916
Spring Valley, NY
Beginning season had trouble wouldn't reach desired pool temp but then it was good for about ten days.I guess it's what I have going on the last 2 days. Water temp 75ish cycles on and off can't get the pool to get higher. Cycles several times on and off but at a point it throws a service light but nothing else lit on the back of the board. I changed the thermal regulator in the manifold for the heck of it ,wasn't expecting it to do anything. Manometer shows good pressure before the valve, never drops below the 4" wc which is minimum. Manifold side I can't stabilize it's all over the place. Short cycles non stop 1 min on then off again. Any help, thanks, Allan.

Forgot to mention I checked if thr heat exchanger is leaking but no water out of the bottom left screw....
 
Beginning season had trouble wouldn't reach desired pool temp but then it was good for about ten days.I guess it's what I have going on the last 2 days. Water temp 75ish cycles on and off can't get the pool to get higher. Cycles several times on and off but at a point it throws a service light but nothing else lit on the back of the board. I changed the thermal regulator in the manifold for the heck of it ,wasn't expecting it to do anything. Manometer shows good pressure before the valve, never drops below the 4" wc which is minimum. Manifold side I can't stabilize it's all over the place. Short cycles non stop 1 min on then off again. Any help, thanks, Allan.

Forgot to mention I checked if thr heat exchanger is leaking but no water out of the bottom left screw....
I would change the thermister. This company has good parts for much less:

Forgot to ask, is there automation involved?
 
Yes there's automation but I disconnected the heater wire and twisted both together bypassing the eztouch.
If the thermister has never been replaced, I would suspect that is the problem. Pull it out, it is probably cracked or corroded. I've replaced at least 100 over the years. Some even look to be new, but internally they are no good. Easy repair and doesn't cost much.
 
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it throws a service light
Service Heater or Service System?
Manifold side I can't stabilize it's all over the place.
Show a video.

The pressure should be a steady -0.2" w.c.

If it is erratic with steady inlet pressure, then the gas valve is likely bad.

Check voltage going to the valve to see if it is solid and steady or fluctuating.

Check Flame Current.
 
Cycles several times on and off but at a point it throws a service light but nothing else lit on the back of the board.
Check the Fenwal for a Blinking LED.
Loss of Flame Rectification is common for a Service Heater with no associated Error LEDs on the Board.
Manometer shows good pressure before the valve, never drops below the 4" wc which is minimum.
Pressure Static and Dynamic?

Is the Dynamic Pressure steady?
 
Service Heater or Service System?
The most left service light which I think is service heater.

Show a video.

The pressure should be a steady -0.2" w.c.

If it is erratic with steady inlet pressure, then the gas valve is likely bad.
It's definitely erratic, moves anywhere from .0 something to .4 plus and up and down on the manifoldside. I do have pressure drop on the inlet side but it remains north of 4wc.... which is spec on the heater.

Is the Dynamic Pressure steady?
Almost
 

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How much drop?
Could be as much as 2.5 wc. What puzzles me is it worked like this the last few years and I only took over this pool last pool season so nothing would have changed other then a component within the heater, that's what my brain tells me. Yes, the meter on the house is tool small for all but when the pool season is on then the heat in the home is off and as I said before, it has been working flawlessly up to now.
 
Could be as much as 2.5 wc. What puzzles me is it worked like this the last few years and I only took over this pool last pool season so nothing would have changed other then a component within the heater, that's what my brain tells me. Yes, the meter on the house is tool small for all but when the pool season is on then the heat in the home is off and as I said before, it has been working flawlessly up to now.
Is the heater gas supply hard-plumbed or flex? If flex, that can cause problems, usually immediately, but sometimes it shows up later. I can't tell you how many times I have heard, "It always worked that way before." Then I hard-plumb the heater and it works again.
A small gas meter can still be an issue, even if house heating is off. Most residential gas meters are able to pass 250 cu. ft./hr. unless they are upgraded or the house is very large. That's already too small for a 335K heater. With gas at a property the water heater is most likely a gas appliance as well as the range in the kitchen and a gas clothes dryer.
The average rate of gas usage of a water heater is 1cu. ft./hr. per gallon of capacity (more efficient ones do use a bit less). So a 40 gallon water heater will be requiring 40K BTU/40 cu ft. worth of gas per hour, and since the supply to that appliance is likely closer to the meter, it will get it before the pool heater. A large home would likely have a larger water heater, maybe a 50 or 60 gallon model.
If the 40-gallon water heater is running and your meter is already small, that leaves you short 125K BTU of gas. Then, they may also have a gas clothes dryer running. They usually require about 22K BTU/22cu. ft. when the burner is on (which is not continuously).
Add and older heater and the problem can show up eventually. Having enough pressure, measured in w.c., does not always mean there is enough supply.