First Opening Salt Question

nodnarb481

New member
May 5, 2025
4
Pennsylvania
Hey everyone. Recently bought a house with a pool and just opened it. So apologies if I'm asking something already asked 100 times. I took the water to get tested at a local store 24hrs after opening. Among some other things, they called for adding 125lbs of salt to the pool. But the salinity reader on the generator is already telling me it's at 3300ppm right now. I'm having trouble reconciling those two things and want to avoid damaging anything by pouring too much salt in the pool. Curious if I'm just misunderstanding the assignment here. Any insight is helpful!
 
Welcome to TFP!!!

Pool store testing is not accurate. You need your own kit to maintain the pool. We give chemical advice when you have your own test results. Link-->>Test Kits Compared
Why do we insist on your own testing? We know pool store testing is not accurate. Giving advice on bad test results, we could do more harm than good, or do damage. (like adding 125lbs of salt when your salt is fine).

If your salt is happy, leave salt alone (don't add more).

When you get your kit (make sure it has salt test like the TFPROsalt) post up numbers and we can help you get square.
 
^^^^^ all that. But also this :


apologies if I'm asking something already asked 100 times
You have never once asked it, so please go right ahead. If it doesn't click right away, ask it again, what's one more ?

Welcome to TFP. :wave:
 
Alrighty I took my tests. Did each twice to be sure and it was consistent. Here's what I got:

FAS-DPD
FC: 1
CC: 1.5

CYA: dot never obscured. I assume that means I have none in the pool at all.

TA: 130-140

CL: 0.5
BR: 1
ph: 8.2

CH: 450

Salt: 2,800-3000.
For the salt, my meter is reading 3300 or so. So I think I need to rinse off the sensor.
 
And off we GO !!!!

When did you last add chlorine ? (Or is the SWG on?)

How does the water look ?

0 CYA can be normal after winter or a red flag.


For the block test its either or, not CL and Br 5-10. Its CL 5 BR 10. (Etc) disregard Br entirely.

And the FC block test isnt very accurate and is vague. Skip that too and do the powder test exclusively. Basically we need the block for the Ph side. Mess with it down the road one day maybe.
 
SWG has been on since opening last week. It's been reading about 3200 or so pretty consistently. Since opening, the only thing I've done is DE the filter at opening and I put two bags of shock in a couple nights ago because I was worried about algae starting to grow while I got all my stuff together.

Water looks great. 1000002410.jpg
 
The cell uses electrical conductance to calculate the salt level, and that calculation can vary by a huge amount, depending on circumstances. My current drop salt test shows 2200 after over-winter dilution. My SWCG shows 3200 (!). Surprisingly, my SWCG is actually generating CL at that low actual salt level. Likely not near as much as it would when I actually get the proper amount of salt in the pool.
An example of how much an alternative method of testing can give skewed results. Miscalibration, other factors , etc. - similar to why we stress over and over to ONLY believe the results of an approved test kit and not fancy pool store attempts, strips, home electronic devices, etc.
 
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Ok based on the situation you have little red flags (1.5cc) but not honking red flags (ammonia). So there is that.

I'd SLAM Process so you retain the upper hand in the battle. If the 1.5 CC more or less overnight is some sort of fluke, it was still a wise call.

There is a printable checklist in the slam article link (click the blue words above) to keep with you.

Lower the PH 0.4 at a time with muriatic acid per PoolMath. Mix for 30 mins, restest and repeat until Ph is 7.2. The last dose may or may not be a 0.4 correction, dose accordingly for that one.

Get 30 CYA granular hanging in a sock per poolmath. Visual link here. Treat the CYA as added as soon as its soaking. Your target FC will be 12.

slam away.
 

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