My pump motor is leaking.

FloridaPoolGal

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Jan 8, 2016
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Altamonte Springs, FL
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For now, it's a small leak. Maybe 8 weeks ago, I started noticing there was air in the system (lots of bubbles) when the pump started up but I didn't see a leak. My pump is about 9 years old (motor spec pic was taken in Dec 2015) and it's still working fine but I can finally see where it's leaking. I'm not sure if it's actually the pump motor itself or at the connection to the next piece. I don't know the correct names of all the pieces parts. I went to YouTube to see what it would take for me to replace the pump motor and it looks doable...with y'all's help! Does anything other than the pump motor typically need to be changed when changing the pump motor? What is the name of the part with the metal band around it with a handle? Is that white piece between the pump motor and the big, flat round part made out of concrete? This is the YouTube video I watched about how to change the pump motor:
. I found a couple of motors that look like mine on Amazon in the range of $200 but I haven't done any other online shopping yet. Looking for any advice and warnings. Let me know if you want additional photos. This pump does everything we need so not looking to install anything different.View of of Pool Pump from Side Old Picture.jpgView of Pool Pump from House Side.jpgPool Motor Drip.jpgSide View Close Up of Drip Area.jpgOverview of Pool Equipment.jpgPool Motor Specs Dec 2015.jpg
 
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You will find it is the pump shaft seal that is probably leaking. The motor may be fine and only the seals need to be replaced if you caught it soon enough.

There are seal kits, called GO-KITS, that contain all the seals you need to replace. You just need to identify the exact model pump you have.

Maybe @1poolman1 can identify your pump.

 
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You will find it is the pump shaft seal that is probably leaking. The motor may be fine and only the seals need to be replaced if you caught it soon enough.

There are seal kits, called GO-KITS, that contain all the seals you need to replace. You just need to identify the exact model pump you have.
Okay, I'll look up the seal kits. I can see a lot of information about the pump motor on the label picture that I took back when it was still legible. I looked it up a few years ago and I don't think this manufacturer is in business anymore. I'm assuming the pump motor itself is fine since it hums along and the water is moving normally.
 
Post pictures of those labels.
I posted 5 pictures, including one of the label in the original post. Can you see them? I'm posting again but wondering if you can see them on the original. I posted at attachments. Now I see maybe that I should have also inserted them.
EDIT: I went back and 'inserted' the photos on the original post.
1 HP Pump Motor when new.jpg
 
I posted 5 pictures, including one of the label in the original post. Can you see them? I'm posting again but wondering if you can see them on the original. I posted at attachments. Now I see maybe that I should have also inserted them.
EDIT: I went back and 'inserted' the photos on the original post.
View attachment 635714
This is the motor and not the pump label.

I believe your pump is an old Sta-Rite pump. Pentair acquired Sta-Rite.
 
This is the motor and not the pump label.

I believe your pump is an old Sta-Rite pump. Pentair acquired Sta-Rite.
I looked for some kind of label on the pump but I couldn't see anything indicating the brand. We've been in this house 10 years and who knows how long it was in place before that. We had the pump motor replaced in 2016 and I got a picture of that label when it was still legible. No print left on it now since all the pool equipment gets a lot of afternoon sun.

Can you tell me what the other part is called that was replaced when the pump motor was replaced 9 years ago? The piece on the left end of the pump motor that interfaces with the pump is different in the current setup compared to the pre-2016 setup.
View of Pool Pump from Side 2016 (New) Pump with Mark-Up.jpgPool Motor 2015 Side View OLD Original Motor with Annotation.jpg
 
This looks like your pump…

I think it's the Dura-Glas, not the Dura-Glas II because of the non-horizontal lines/features on the pump.
 
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Could be. Call Inyo Pools. They can be helpful in identifying the parts you need.

@InyoRich
 
Greetings! It does look like you have a Sta-Rite Dura-Glas/Max-E-Glas pump so use the Gokit6 if your pump is pre-1998 (with the copper seal insert) or use the Gokit54 if your pump is newer than 1998 and has no copper insert. Not sure? Get the Gokit54 and discard the copper seal if it is in there and install the ceramic part of the shaft seal directly in the seal plate.
 
PS The circular part that the motor fastens to in your picture is the seal plate (part #C203-193P). Chances are it probably was not replaced, since it looks like the original factory sticker is still on it.

You shouldn't need to replace the motor - and 9 years is a great life span for today's motors!
 
Could be. Call Inyo Pools. They can be helpful in identifying the parts you need.

@InyoRich
I chatted with INYO, sent them some pictures, and they recommended this kit. I ordered it and will hopefully have it soon. Their video (and a neighbor who has done this before) should get me through it.

Sta-Rite Dura-Glas and Max-E-Glas Pool Pump Seal Kit, 1998 to Present Models | By Pureline | GOKIT54​

 
Greetings! It does look like you have a Sta-Rite Dura-Glas/Max-E-Glas pump so use the Gokit6 if your pump is pre-1998 (with the copper seal insert) or use the Gokit54 if your pump is newer than 1998 and has no copper insert. Not sure? Get the Gokit54 and discard the copper seal if it is in there and install the ceramic part of the shaft seal directly in the seal plate.
INYO recommended the GoKit54 because I couldn't tell them the age of the pump. I watched a video that showed the two different configurations so we'll see what I have inside once I get the seal kit. Thanks for the input.
 
PS The circular part that the motor fastens to in your picture is the seal plate (part #C203-193P). Chances are it probably was not replaced, since it looks like the original factory sticker is still on it.

You shouldn't need to replace the motor - and 9 years is a great life span for today's motors!
I actually found the budget entry ($445) in early December 2015 for the installation of the replacement motor by our local independent pool store. It's actually a bit over 9 years old! I thought it was a bit expensive at the time and it's probably double that cost now. I was encouraged by the comments of people on the INYO site who had replaced their pump motor themselves so I will definitely be doing it myself when the time comes. Thank you for the information about the seal plate.

Our pool is screened and I typically only run the motor only 4-5 hours a day unless I've added granulated stabilizer (sock method) and then I run it overnight. It seems to work because we've haven't had an algae outbreak since I converted to the TFP maintenance philosophy in Feb 2016 and the water is always sparkling clear. And I watch the filter pressure. Not sure if those 2 things have helped extend the life of the pump but I try to make its life as easy as possible!
 
I'm waiting for the seal kit to be delivered later today so I watched the video INYO sent me (they don't have one of their own) that shows someone doing the seal replacement. He completely disconnected the motor from the power cord although I'm not sure that was necessary. It was likely more convenient to take the motor inside to his workbench (especially since he was making a video) to replace several parts in the kit but is it necessary to take the extra step of disconnecting it from the power cord?
 
You don't have to remove the pump from its location. Make sure, however, to turn the power off to the pump, either with the service disconnect or at the breaker, before you rebuild the pump.

Be sure you have silicone LUBRICANT (not sealant) and use it on all the o-rings (Magic Lube II). DO NOT get any lubricant on the shaft seal.
 
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Depends on your equipment pad environment and if you like working on your knees.

Moving the motor to where you have a good clean work environment can help you get it done right the first time.

 
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You don't have to remove the pump from its location. Make sure, however, to turn the power off to the pump, either with the service disconnect or at the breaker, before you rebuild the pump.

Be sure you have silicone LUBRICANT (not sealant) and use it on all the o-rings (Magic Lube II). DO NOT get any lubricant on the shaft seal.
Yes, I will turn off the breaker that is right by all the equipment before I start.
I bought a new tube of Magic Lube Teflon Swimming Pool O-ring Gasket Lubricant, 1 Oz. - 630 when I bought the gasket kit.
The shaft seal is the one that is part white ceramic that you're not supposed to even touch with your fingers, right?
 

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