Repairing the Jandy Fusion 1400 SWG Cell

Sam721

Active member
May 18, 2022
25
Murfreesboro, TN
Like a lot of folks here, I am seeing the dreaded 125/194 codes again now on my system for the third time since the pool was built. We are now just at the end of the 4th season on this pool and we are on our 3rd SWG cell that is now dying. I've had both replacements put in as warranty replacements by the PB, but I think I am on my own now. This last one lasted almost exactly 1 year, which I think is abnormally short. Examining the SWG cell and taking it apart, I found that the center post is completely corroded through (disconnected) at the point where it connects to the center plate. I have never cleaned the cell with acid nor does it have any deposits on it at all. It looks completely clean, like new except for that center post.

Why is it corroding so fast? I have had to SLAM the pool twice this season, but other than that the chemistry has been within TFP guidelines the whole time (only CYA is a little lower but my SWG duty cycle peaks at 40% mid-summer to maintain FC so I think that is good enough). CYA has been around 40-50, the FC around 3-4, I let the pH rise to about 7.9-8.0 before adjusting back down to 7.6 with acid, TA is 50-60 and CH 125-150. Last fall the CSI was just below zero (but pH was high at that time at 8.0 to 8.1), over the winter it dropped to -0.7 to -0.9, but the SWG is only at 10% (or off when water is below 50F). In the spring and over the summer, the CSI has been around -0.6 to -0.7.
Does anything in the chemistry look like it could be conducive to the posts corroding so bad?

Now to my repairs: I tried to solder the post to the plate, but that didn't work, I guess the metals are just not compatible with soldering. I then tried brazing with a copper brazing rod (used for HVAC copper tubing). That didn't want to flow and stick either.
Next, I drilled small holes in the rod and in the top of the plate and reconnected the post to the plate with a short copper wire then wrapped the wire and the connection to the post in waterproof gorilla tape. This worked and it was drawing 6.8A again and produced a lot of hydrogen bubbles. But it only last about 1.5 days before the codes were back again. Taking the cell apart, I found that the complete copper wire was gone (dissolved I suppose) with only a small stub left in the post.

Next, I used a steel nail to make the connection and wrapped the whole rod, connection to the nail, and the connection to the plate completely in gorilla tape to waterproof the whole thing. It's been in the pool for about 12 hours now and still working *knock on wood*.

Has anybody else tried repairing these? It seems crazy to throw away an $600 part only because one connection comes loose!!

Thanks!
Sam
 
Yes I have also tried fixing them. For welding the center electrode, you would need to weld with the proper material. I am not sure what that is.

It is always the center electrode that fails. My next experiment will be to try one of the edge electrodes in the center. Try that and see what it does. I bought a new one this season and mine typically last 3 seasons (6 months 24x7 @ 50%).
 
Yes I have also tried fixing them. For welding the center electrode, you would need to weld with the proper material. I am not sure what that is.

It is always the center electrode that fails. My next experiment will be to try one of the edge electrodes in the center. Try that and see what it does. I bought a new one this season and mine typically last 3 seasons (6 months 24x7 @ 50%).
I'm starting to doubt that can be welded/brazed/soldered actually because the factory attachment seems to be some sort of riveting of the rod to the electrode plate. But it's clear that the center rod is eroding away wherever it is in contact with the water, so I think waterproofing the complete rod all the way down to where it attaches to the electrode plate should do the trick if you can get it to hold over time. I saw another post where someone suggested epoxying the holes at the lid that also leak. That seems like a secondary problem to me, but maybe the primary problem of the rod eroding away could be solved by encasing the complete rod all the way down to the connection in epoxy.

I also thought about using one of the end/edge plate in the center and then using my "fixed" center plate at the edge, but my "fixed" connection is a bit thick and the next plate a bit close so I was concerned it might short. But if this continues, I will find a way to connect on one side of the plate so I can try that.

You said yours lasts 3 seasons? I've been lucky to get 1.5 season 24/7 @ 40%! Anything about my chemistry that looks different from yours?
 
Can anybody weigh in on the water chemistry? Is there something causing excessive corrosion in the way I have managed that? Would a CSI of around -0.7 cause this?

I see people post their SWG cells lasting 7, some even 13 years! What is different in those pools?
 
Would a CSI of around -0.7 cause this?
No, CSI does not effect the metal plates. CSI only effects the accumulation of caclium scale ont he plates.

I see people post their SWG cells lasting 7, some even 13 years! What is different in those pools?
  • Is the cell ever cleaned with acid?
  • Actual generation time on the cell, not the elapsed time installed.
  • Quality of the cell and amount of rare earths on the plates.
 
No, CSI does not effect the metal plates. CSI only effects the accumulation of caclium scale ont he plates.
I didn't think this was the case, but wanted to confirm. Thank you

  • Is the cell ever cleaned with acid?
  • Actual generation time on the cell, not the elapsed time installed.
  • Quality of the cell and amount of rare earths on the plates.
  • The plates always look completely clean, so the cell in the system right now has never been acid cleaned because there was no need for it. I've cleaned one of the previous cells when it was giving me trouble, which looked clean to me at the time btw, but I wanted to make sure it wasn't a case of I didn't know what to look for. The acid solution cleaning did also make no difference at all on that one. I am willing to bet the post on the previous ones was also corroded through.
  • I keep records in my PoolMath log of when I change settings on the SWG %, so I was able to go back and calculate the total generation time on this latest cell. I did have to estimate how much time in the middle of winter the water temp was < 50F when the SWG shuts off, but that's only an adjustment of 100-200hrs at most. I came up with 2400 hrs of actual SWG cell on time. It's more than I thought but still very short of the 7000-10000 hrs I see floating around on the forums for a quality cell like this one should be.
  • These SWG cells were all brand new OEM Jandy SWG cells from the PB. The ones that I see new for $550-$650 right now.
I want to stress that except for the corrosion on the center post, all other plates, posts, connections, etc. all look like new to me. The problem is all in the center post corroding to the point where it snaps because there is no more material left.

My latest repair with the steel nail connecting the center post to the center plate and complete waterproofing of everything except the plate itself is still working after over 24hrs now *knock on wood again*. So it does look like the failure may be able to be prevented by completely encapsulating the center post so it is not in contact with the water at all. Going to see how long this repair lasts....
 
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And the salt cell is still working!! I think I know what to do if I ever need to get a replacement. For the time being I'm going to keep using the one I have and fix it if I need to. Might take it out next weekend to see what it looks like now.
 

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Just saying for whatever the reason it's only happening in the center but it seems to me the failure is related to the contacts between the plug at the cell itself and the center post. Dielectric grease helps stop the arcing which is what overheats the contact and melts it away. Maybe squeezing the rubber on the outside to tighten it up so it has better contact. Just my two cents.
 
Can you post pics of your repair?
I didn't take pictures before covering with the Gorilla tape. I realized that right after I covered it all up. I am planning on taking out the cell in a few weeks when it gets colder and I need to dial it back anyways. I might be tempted to take the tape off to see what it looks like underneath.
Just saying for whatever the reason it's only happening in the center but it seems to me the failure is related to the contacts between the plug at the cell itself and the center post. Dielectric grease helps stop the arcing which is what overheats the contact and melts it away. Maybe squeezing the rubber on the outside to tighten it up so it has better contact. Just my two cents.
I agree, it looks like the connection between center post and the center cell plate is the weakest link. That connection does carry the most current and the factory heat shrink they put on the posts doesn't quite cover enough apparently. After remaking the connection, I covered the complete connection including a portion of the plate itself (maybe 1/4" by 1/4") to make sure no water gets to the connection. It seems to work (so far).
 
Update on the status of the SWCG cell repair:

Over the winter I have left the cell in the vessel as I keep my pool running year round. I had some time on the cell in the late fall and then I boosted the pool occasionally over the winter to keep some free Cl. I also installed a small voltage and amp indicator on the DC lines to the cell so I can keep an eye on how it is doing without taking the whole Aqualink cabinet apart and bringing out my clamp meter. Last weekend, as I was boosting the pool another time, my indicator read 0 amps and the error 120/121 came up again. So I took it out and apart and as before, the plates all look clean and in good condition. Only problem (as every time), is the center post came loose due to corrosion/erosion. I don't understand why they don't connect the center post the same way as the other two posts, as those two never have a problem with corrosion/erosion even though the cell reverses polarity. See pics below:

Overview picture

20250301_162127_IMG_7061_Edited.JPG

Detail of the center post after I took off my Gorilla tape. You can see the little holes I drilled in the post and plate to make my connection. Note that the post is corroding/eroding anywhere it gets wet, including the top that passes though the cap.

20250301_162426_IMG_7065.JPG

So I redid my repair as done previously, it seemed to have held about 5-6 month albeit with low chlorine generation. I will have to see how long it lasts this pool season with daily use at 20-50% which is what I typically have it set at during the season.

Here are the details with pics:
- First I gave the parts a good cleaning with a wire brush

20250301_162943_IMG_7067.JPG

- Then I reinstalled the steel nail that connects the post with the plate

20250301_163720_IMG_7069.JPG20250301_163712_IMG_7068.JPG

- Wrapped everything again in Gorilla tape to waterproof the post and connection to the plate

20250301_165707_IMG_7072.JPG

This is the Gorilla tape I used:

20250301_165824_IMG_7074_Edited.JPG

- And this is the voltage and amps indicator. 5.8 amps again after the repair. I have noticed that the voltage is a bit higher than what the repair manual says, but the unit is not complaining. I do wonder if this was a factor in the short lifespan of the cells I've had so far.

20250302_155300_IMG_7081.JPG

I'm thinking about a better way to waterproof the post and connection so it will last longer because it is clear to me that that is the main problem with these cells. Encasing in epoxy would be one way, but would render a subsequent repair a nightmare if it still leaks somehow.

I'm open to any ideas on this!
Sam
 
@Sam721 - Thank you for bringing this thread to my attention, I'm all in for trying some different fixes. We don't open for another month here and it will probably be at least until mid may before the temps are warm enough to run it. What do you think about JB weld or that steel epoxy putty? It may make future repairs a little harder but it may just erode away like the center pin does anyways, kind of like a sacrificial anode...

Also, can you share where you got that cool volt and amp display, I need to have one now :)

Thanks again
 
I think I will try epoxy or something like that next time it needs repair. I will probably also replace the post at that time because you can see how it erodes away wherever water touches it. I'll just use some 3/16" SS rods from Amazon for that. I really wish someone had a broken salt cell they were willing to send me (I would gladly pay for shipping!). I would try to use one of the outside plates in the middle position to see if it lasts longer.

Please note that the display can be powered by the voltage measured, in which case it's only on when the cell is being powered. I looked for an easy DC source in the Aqualink RS to power it full time, but it's all AC, so I left it to be on only when the cell is on. I cut the cell wires on the PCB side of the connectors to the DC cord and inserted two splitters to split off the voltage to the display. One difficulty I encountered was that the when the polarity reverses on the cell, the display doesn't work. To get around that, I fed the display through a rectifier before connecting to the display. Now it works even when the cell reverses polarity. The amps are measured with a coil, so just feed one of the wires to the cell through that. The display will show negative amps as well when the cell reverses (shows a small . in the bottom right, like a second decimal point)

Display: bayite Volt Amp Meter, DC 5-100V 100A Waterproof Dual Display Current Voltage Meter, Digital Mini Ammeter Voltmeter Gauge with Hall Effect Sensor Current Transformer

Splitters: GKEEMARS 20Pcs Mini Electrical Wire Connectors, DIY Splicing into 4/6/8/9/10 Way Butt Terminal Block Connectors (1 in 2 Out - PC)

Rectifier: BOJACK KBPC5010 Rectifier Diode 50 A 1000 V Axial KBPC5010 50 amp 1000 Volt Electronic Silicon Diodes (Pack of 2)

Let me know if you need any help with this or if you any other suggestions on waterproofing the center post connection.
 
I'm going to be getting a new one soon anyways, I'll send you one of the outside plates when I do. It will be at least a month though. You've already been through several iterations and can probably test it better than I can. I'm also keeping an eye on ebay, maybe I can find a broken one cheap.
 
I'm going to be getting a new one soon anyways, I'll send you one of the outside plates when I do. It will be at least a month though. You've already been through several iterations and can probably test it better than I can. I'm also keeping an eye on ebay, maybe I can find a broken one cheap.

That would be awesome!! Like I mentioned above, I would gladly pay for shipping to get one of those. It just bugs me that they always fail at that center post and make you buy a whole new cell at $600 when the expensive parts are the plates with coating that are still 100% fine!

Let me know if/when you can send one of the outside plates.

Thanks!
Sam
 
Hi, My replacement cell is still a month or so away. However, if it's easy to disassemble and put it back together, I can do it on Sunday. I just haven't taken one apart yet so not sure what I'm in for.
 
Hi, My replacement cell is still a month or so away. However, if it's easy to disassemble and put it back together, I can do it on Sunday. I just haven't taken one apart yet so not sure what I'm in for.

All you really need is a screwdriver. Pry off that square black piece.

1744294695454.png
 

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