Pool equipment update

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Pesh said:
I just thought that Pentair could've evolved the SW on the IntelliCenter in a way that would no longer need the Air Temp Sensor. This something analogous to Rachio Sprinkler system that utilizes Internet-based weather data to determine sprinkler water cycles.
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I don’t think that is an improvement. It is a cost cutting measure that makes the system dependent on an Internet connection and weather service.

The IntelliCenter does not require an Internet connection and will be fully functional standalone.

The low cost IntelliConnect uses a weather service for air temperature and requires the Internet to operate.
 
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I'm curious why Pentair does not include high temp unions with new Mastertemp 400? I say this, assuming the included white unions are non-high temp.

As part of new install, should I ditch the included unions in favor of high temp ones? If so, any pointers to compatible ones?
 
I just noticed this warning.

Never heard of this rule before and I do not think it makes any sense.

Maybe the heater manufacturers need to get a clue and install a real flow switch on the heaters if they want to make sure that the heater only operates with flow.

They can put a flow switch on a SWG, so I am not sure why it is so difficult to install a flow switch on a heater.

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JamesW said:
I just noticed this warning.

Never heard of this rule before and I do not think it makes any sense.

Maybe the heater manufacturers need to get a clue and install a real flow switch on the heaters if they want to make sure that the heater only operates with flow.

They can put a flow switch on a SWG, so I am not sure why it is so difficult to install a flow switch on a heater.

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Any idea if IntelliCenter has the ability to disable Cleaner if Heater is running in automation?
 
Pesh said:
Any idea if IntelliCenter has the ability to disable Cleaner if Heater is running in automation?
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Nope, it does not.

And that does not apply to your setup with a booster pump.

The warning is about using a suction type pool cleaner that pulls the debris through the pump and filter. It is poorly worded and not specific to the type of cleaner the writer is warning about.
 
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I currently have a MasterTemp 400 which was installed around 2012 on my equipment pad. Due to some rodents and other issues, i'm needing to replace it with a new MasterTemp 400. The heater is many feet (not sure exactly how many), but certainly more than four (4) feet below water level.

According to Pentair Heater Installation Manual, a Flow Switch should've been installed since the internal Water Pressure Switch will be always be in the "tripped" state due to below water level nature of our equipment. As you can see from the equipment picture, no Flow Switch is installed and over the past 12+ years, we've never had an issue with the heater and/or related plumbing.

As I prepare to replace the old heater with a new one, I find the Installation Manual lacking on Flow Switch recommendations and installation details.

I did come across this info on TFP, but found it a little light on detail : Heater Flow Switch - Further Reading

FWIW, the main filter pump will be a 3HP IntelliFlo3 controlled by IntelliCenter Automation. It would seem that IntelliCenter + IntelliFlo3 should be able to control flow into MasterTemp 400 in a safe way without needing a Flow Switch.

Has anyone else dealt with this issue? Any guidance would be appreciated.
 

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Pesh said:
I did come across this info on TFP, but found it a little light on detail : Heater Flow Switch - Further Reading
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What details do you need?

Install a Harwil flow switch in your plumbing and wire it is series with the heater water pressure switch.

I got lucky...now I need help adding a flow switch

Evening, TFP World! We have an autocover that stays closed except when the pool is in use or needs to be left open to breath. Today, it was a beautiful day, so I left it open most of the day. I did not appreciate how much Crud was coming off the trees, and allowed both skimmer baskets to get...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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ajw22 said:
What details do you need?

Install a Harwil flow switch in your plumbing and wire it is series with the heater water pressure switch.

I got lucky...now I need help adding a flow switch

Evening, TFP World! We have an autocover that stays closed except when the pool is in use or needs to be left open to breath. Today, it was a beautiful day, so I left it open most of the day. I did not appreciate how much Crud was coming off the trees, and allowed both skimmer baskets to get...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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I'm curious if i've just been lucky for the past decade plus? or if i even need the flow switch?
 

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Pesh said:
I'm curious if i've just been lucky for the past decade plus? or if i even need the flow switch?
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Hard to say.

How long did your old heater last and what problems did you have with it?
 
ajw22 said:
Hard to say.

How long did your old heater last and what problems did you have with it?
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The old heater lasted for nearly 13 years. There were two main issues:

1. Rodents chewed up some of the wiring
2. Due to ice / snow the top lid developed a sizable crack, which resulted in water getting inside and rusting quite a bit of the internals.
 

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Pesh said:
On a related note, as i replace the old MT400, any parts worth scavenging that could be used in future on new MT400 as it may develop issues down the road?
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Parts such as?

I doubt it.
 
IntelliFlo 3 / IntelliFlo VS programming question?

I currently have an IntelliFlo VS which is programmed to address #1 (i believe factory default). This is my main filter pump. I plan to replace it with an IntelliFlo 3. I assume the IntelliFlo 3 will also be address #1 by default.

What is the best way to handle the "pump addressing" so they don't create issues for IntelliCenter?

Can I go ahead and change the current VS to Address 2 using Pentair Home app on my iPhone, even though there is no pump using Address #1 for now? In a week or two, the IntelliFlo 3 will be installed and utilize Address 1. The VS will replace a Whisperflo and then already be Address 2, so both pumps can co-exist and work with IntelliCenter seamlessly.
 
I just hooked up a new MasterTemp 400 (replacing an old MT400 circa 2012) to my IntelliCenter. I'm guessing there have been some updates and I'm a little confused by the installation manual. I have two questions.

Question #1 - Automation
My old heater was wired into the Gas Heater (J2) and connected to the "cut" firemans switch. I wired the new heater the same way but when I look at the installation manual it talks about connecting to COM port as one option or defers to IntelliCenter Installation Manual.

What is the right way for me to wire 2025 Model MT400 to IntelliCenter for Automation?

Question #2 - Electrical Wiring
The 2-pole 2 AMP 220V Breaker that I'm using is supplying power to the MT400, a Spa Blower and a Pentair Booster Pump. The Spa Blower and Booster are being driven by relays.

The breaker supplying power to all this equipment is connected to the line side of a relay, which is then jumpered over to an adjacent relay. Can i connect Heater power into the Line side terminals of relay (see attached picture)? or Do I need to go from breaker into a wire nut and then two (2) separate connections [one to relay and one to heater]?
 

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ajw22 said:
1. Use RS-485 control. Read Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

2. Yes. Connect to LINE screws.
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Thanks for prompt reply.

I'll get the heater powered correctly tomorrow AM but leveraging the Line side of my relay. That will be fairly easy and clean.

With respect to IntelliCenter... Looks like I have some rewiring to do. It certainly seems like the RS-485 connection is more functional than the Gas Heater J2 allowing for more info/control thru IntelliCenter.

So I believe I need to:
1. Restore the Fireman's Switch by wire-nutting the spliced wired back.
2. Move my 4-conductor "control wire" to the RS-485 connector on the MT400, but only use Black / Yellow / Green (I wonder why not Red)
3. Move the other end of the "control wire" from J2 to a COM Port and use only use Black / Yellow / Green
4. Reprogram IntelliCenter fro MasterTemp instead of Gas Heater.
5. Fire the bad boy up!
 
Pesh said:
Thanks for prompt reply.

I'll get the heater powered correctly tomorrow AM but leveraging the Line side of my relay. That will be fairly easy and clean.

With respect to IntelliCenter... Looks like I have some rewiring to do. It certainly seems like the RS-485 connection is more functional than the Gas Heater J2 allowing for more info/control thru IntelliCenter.

So I believe I need to:
1. Restore the Fireman's Switch by wire-nutting the spliced wired back.
2. Move my 4-conductor "control wire" to the RS-485 connector on the MT400, but only use Black / Yellow / Green (I wonder why not Red)
3. Move the other end of the "control wire" from J2 to a COM Port and use only use Black / Yellow / Green
4. Reprogram IntelliCenter fro MasterTemp instead of Gas Heater.
5. Fire the bad boy up!
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Just connect yellow/green wires.

Black and red wires are used for 12V power to devices that are powered by the RS-485.
 
ajw22 said:
Just connect yellow/green wires.

Black and red wires are used for 12V power to devices that are powered by the RS-485.
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I wonder why Pentair Install Manual mentions connecting Black / Yellow / Green only in the RS-485 section, line #8?
 

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