Jandy aquapure 120 error

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mc2021 said:
Time to check the plates?
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Check for scale and corrosion.

Clean if necessary.

Maybe change to 700 model to get through the season.

The 700 model setting has a lower amp range, so it might work for a few more months when set to 700.

Monitor amps and log the numbers to see if there is a trend that can indicate how fast the cell is dying.
 
mc2021 said:
Installed in Sept 21, with our short season probably has 15 months of runtime.
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File a warranty claim.

The warranty is 3 years I think.
mc2021 said:
In normal mode it's showing 4.5 and -4.5 now. As I'm typing this the service light went on and the amps are now 4.3 and -4.5. Seems like 4.5 is close to the line?
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I do not know the exact amp limit but it is probably close to 4.5.

If you add salt, it might keep it above 4.5 amps.
 
JamesW said:
That is a little bit low.

Maybe go to about 3,600 ppm salt.
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I'll try this next but the manual says 3000 to 3500 is optimal.

I finally got the cell off and there is a fair amount of scale which I don't understand since I'm pretty ocd about keeping my csi negative.
 

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Used a bamboo skewer and a little vinegar and got most of it off. Now it's showing 4.6 in reverse so that doesn't seem to have helped but no error message. I guess I'll monitor for a while and check with the pool company on the warranty...

Any thoughts on what caused the scale since I'm always below a 0 csi?

Thanks
 
Maybe try a more aggressive cleaning with muriatic acid.

Maybe 10:1 water to acid.

Maybe stronger if necessary.

The stronger the acid, the less time you want it to sit.

See what the warranty says.
 
mc2021 said:
Any thoughts on what caused the scale since I'm always below a 0 csi?
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Hard to tell.

The cell has high pH as it produces hydrogen at the cathode.

Even though the process is net neutral the plates can accumulate scale.

Some cells tend to accumulate a lot of scale and some don't even with similar chemistry.

Anode 4Cl- -> 2Cl2.

Cathode 4H2O -> 2H2 + 4OH-.

2Cl2 +2H2O -> 3H+ + HOCl + OCl-.

HOCl + OCl- + uv light -> O2 + H+ + 2Cl-.

Following the process, we can see that there are 4H+ and 4OH- created, which nets out to pH neutral.

The chlorine gas generated is very acidic and creates 3 hydrogen ions for every 4 hydroxide ions created.

As the hypochlorous acid is broken down by UV, 1 more hydrogen ion is created for a net neutral result.

Assuming that chlorine gain and loss are equal, there's no pH rise.
 
OH- + HCO3- + Ca2+ --> CaCO3 + H2O.

Hydroxide Ions + Bicarbonate Ions + Calcium Ions = Calcium Carbonate plus Water.

Borates can help, but I am not a big fan of borates.
 
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Ok thanks for all that info. I'll try the 10:1 later today. Can I safelty put the entire cell into the bucket or is there a way to remove the plates?
 

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I cleaned the plates with vinegar and they look very clean now. There is a small amount of build on the center plate and 1 outside plate both a very small amout at the edge and very hard. I also verified I am out if the warranty.

Reverse is consistently around 5.7 and normal is around 4.3 with a 120 error code.

I'm not concerned about this season since I can manage with liquid if need be. It's still producing chlorine, probably more in reverse mode. Should I try a 10:1 acid wash or just leave it for now and run it till it dies?
 
mc2021 said:
Should I try a 10:1 acid wash or just leave it for now and run it till it dies?
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Maybe a quick wash to see if it bubbles.

If no bubbles, stop the wash and don't overexpose the plates to more acid than necessary.

The cell is on limited time.

I would probably convert the cell type to the 700 to see if that will give more life.

If you cut the jumper, make sure you can reconnect it to switch back to the 1400 model cell.

Did you file for warranty?
 
@JamesW asked to keep a log to help track the decline and I did. I was lazy though in typing it out into excel, better late than never I guess. In any case, it was surprising to see the numbers bounce up and down so much. The cell was producing at the end, just not sure how much since demand was low. If someone wants the excel file, let me know. I'll start a new thread on the best course of action for a replacement. Thanks
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yes, you are correct, it was amps. The pins on the outside and under the screws are fine. It's the connection to the plates that has eroded. I don't have pictures on me but I can get some once we open it up in April. Thanks for the help, looking into replacement options now.
 
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