Pool equipment update

Jump to latest Follow Reply
I'm just gonna go with :

1 x 120V non-GFCI Breaker -> GFCI Outlet / IntelliCenter / Work Light
1 x 120V GFCI Breaker -> Pool Light 1 / Pool Light 2 / Spa Light

Effectively, not trying my luck with GFCI Breaker supplying GFCI outlet.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ahultin and Newdude
I currently have my main Pool/Spa Pump, an IntelliFlo VS3050, which is wired to my IntelliCenter utilizing COM Port "A". The "FLTR" connection is wired to a relay but nothing is connected to the relay. I have a WhisperFlo pump for a Waterfall.

I'm planning on getting a new IntelliFlo3 which will become my main Pool/Spa Pump and move the InteliFlo VS to become my "new" Waterfall pump.

I understand that the IntelliCenter can have upto 16 variable speed pumps attached to it.

My question is, how do I wire up the two (2) IntelliFlo pumps to the IntelliCenter? Do I just have two RS-485 cables (one for each pump) wired to the same COM Port?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0947.jpeg
    IMG_0947.jpeg
    426.7 KB · Views: 1
Connecting an IntelliFlo® Pump to the Load Center

A 50 ft 22 AWG four conductor low voltage RS-232 communication cable is provided with IntelliFlo pump.

To connect the IntelliFlo pump communication cable to the Load Center:

1. Switch AC power OFF to the Load Center at the main house circuit breakers.

2. Run the communication cable from the pump to the Load Center or Power Center.

3. Insert the cable conductors into the one of the plastic grommet fittings, located on the lower left side of the enclosure and pull the cable up through the low voltage to the circuit board, as shown below.

4. Strip back the outer jacket four inches. Strip back each conductor a ¼-inch.

5. IntelliCenter Control System COM Port (J4 or J5): Insert the conductors into the COM Port screw terminals located on the top of the IntelliCenter Control System circuit board (see diagram below). Secure the conductors with the screws.

For wiring details, refer to the pin configuration shown below.

Note: Multiple conductors may be inserted into a single screw terminal.

 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Pesh
Pesh said:
My question is, how do I wire up the two (2) IntelliFlo pumps to the IntelliCenter? Do I just have two RS-485 cables (one for each pump) wired to the same COM Port?
Click to expand...

Your signature does not indicate how you chlorinate your p[ool.

Will you have the IntelliChlor surge board in your IntelliCenter? The surge board gives you three more RS-485 connectors.

You can put two wires under each screw open a RS-485 connector without problems.

If you need more you should add the RS-485 expansion board. Read Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

With two VS pumps you need to change one of the pump addresses in the IntelliCenter and in the pump control panel.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pesh
ajw22 said:
Your signature does not indicate how you chlorinate your p[ool.

Will you have the IntelliChlor surge board in your IntelliCenter? The surge board gives you three more RS-485 connectors.

You can put two wires under each screw open a RS-485 connector without problems.

If you need more you should add the RS-485 expansion board. Read Pentair Automation Systems - Further Reading

With two VS pumps you need to change one of the pump addresses in the IntelliCenter and in the pump control panel.
Click to expand...
No IntelliChlor, nor plans to add. I wish I could, but salt water and my pool coping / waterfall are not compatible.

Good to know that I can put two pumps on one COM Port. And, extra thanks for the pump address tip!
 
Put how you chlorinate your pool in your signature.
 
JamesW said:
The IntelliCenter® Control System filter pump output is rated at 120 VAC, 15 AMP maximum.
Click to expand...
I don't understand what this means from the manual?

Can anyone explain this?

Is there a Filter Pump Output?

The manual also says:

"Connect IntelliFlo® Pump AC power cord to 240 Volt 20 AMP direct circuit breaker in IntelliCenter load center or separate sub-panel."
 
Last edited:
JamesW said:
The IntelliCenter® Control System filter pump output is rated at 120 VAC, 15 AMP maximum.
Click to expand...
Yea - there is zero logic in this
JamesW said:
Is there a Filter Pump Output
Click to expand...
Yes there is a 24v output to the filter pump relay on the intellicenter mb. The relay (included in my load center from 2021/2022 build) is an omron G7L-2A-BUBJ-CB-IN-DC24 which shows as rated for 240v, 25amps/ 3hp 277v. It would be interesting to see if earlier/later iterations included a different relay? The same omron relay part number without the "IN" suffix appears to only be rated for a 2hp motor load (but the same 240v, 25a) as the contacts are only silver/tin vs silver/tin/indium. Maybe a supply chain/precious metal issue from the pandemic and the manual was never updated?
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
These two parts do not make sense.
______________________________________________________
"GAS HEATER: This automation control system is designed to supply high voltage (120 VAC / 240 VAC) to a gas heater and override the thermostat in the heater’s control circuit.

This automation control system is intended to control gas heaters with a high temperature limit switch(s) safety circuit."
_________________________________________________

1739201110365.png
________________________________________

1739201221217.png
_________________________________
The IntelliCenter® Control System filter pump output is rated at 120 VAC, 15 AMP maximum.
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
 
Pesh said:
I wish I could, but salt water and my pool coping / waterfall are not compatible.
Click to expand...
Texas builders hate SWG for some reason and tell customers that SWG will destroy all stone.

They probably had a bad batch of stone at one point and blamed SWGs for the stones deteriorating.

Weak stone will be damaged over time with or without SWG.

Good stone should be fine with SWG.

They also recently had a bad batch of aggregate for concrete causing ASR and a lot of pools are failing.

So far, they have not blamed SWGs for that (Yet).

Measure your salinity and you will probably be surprised how high it is
 
Last edited:
Can the breaker for a cleaner Booster Pump (6.5 Amps), regardless of manufacturer (Puri Tech, Pentair, Jandy, etc.) be non-GFCI?

To balance the load, the breaker will also be shared by Air Blower (2.5 Amps) for Spa and MasterTemp 400 Heater (2.5 Amps).
 
I'm nearing an equipment overhaul and looking at the current rats nest of plumbing and equipment layout. I cannot say why things were plumbed they way that are, but as part of new filter, pumps, heater, valves, etc. Now is the optimal time to consider new layout.

Things that I do not want to tackle or touch is the suction and drain lines. Many of those are buried in / under concrete. The pad as poured is what I have to work with. I dont want to address modifying the L-shaped pad.

That being said, there must be a more optimal way to orient and lay things out for cleaner plumbing. I believe there should be a more optimal way to lay things out such that a significant amount of PVC could be reduced and overall servicing / equipment access could be improved.

For example, I think I can move the pumps around and reduce plumbing.

Currently the pumps are laid out as follows Filter, Cleaner Booster, Waterfall Booster. As a result, there are LOTs of extra 90 degree elbows and the filter pump is on wrong side of MultiPort valve.

Reworked could be: Cleaner Booster, Waterfall Booster, and then Filter. This could allow for more direct line-up of the Cleaner and WaterFall pumps straight into their supply lines and then have the Filter pump located on the correct side of the mulitport reducing a lot of extra plumbing.

I also wonder if the heater could be rotated 90 degrees or 180 degrees for a more direct flow. Note: I do plan to add a heater-bypass plumbing circuit as part of redo.

I welcome the wisdom and experience of members from this forum, for ideas. Thanks in advance.
 

Attachments

  • Filter and Pumps.jpeg
    Filter and Pumps.jpeg
    913.6 KB · Views: 10
  • Heater and Return Lines.jpeg
    Heater and Return Lines.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 10
  • Heater and Return Lines2.jpeg
    Heater and Return Lines2.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 7
  • Return Lines.jpeg
    Return Lines.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 6
  • Suction Lines.jpeg
    Suction Lines.jpeg
    823.3 KB · Views: 7
  • Zoom Out.jpeg
    Zoom Out.jpeg
    963.2 KB · Views: 10
Optimize the pipe runs for the main filter pump -> filter -> heater bypass -> heater - > SWG -> returns.

Optimizing cleaner or waterfall pumps flow is not important.

Put the equipment on the ground in various layouts. Get a box full of PVC fittings and some pipe and dry fit various layouts

At the end you will be constrained by where the suction and return pipes go into the ground
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pesh
I'm curious if you have an IntelliCenter that is network connected, does it need a dedicated Air Temp Sensor? Or does the IntelliCenter take temperature from an internet source based on zip code, physical address?
 
The IntelliCenter has its own temperature sensor that typically hangs below the panel.

It will also display local weather, including b temperature, from an Internet weather source.
 
ajw22 said:
The IntelliCenter has its own temperature sensor that typically hangs below the panel.

It will also display local weather, including b temperature, from an Internet weather source.
Click to expand...
I am aware of that, but I have an ancient Load Center + IntelliTouch that has been upgraded. I'm still using the original (circa 2010) Load Center with an IntelliCenter upgrade kit applied. The temp sensor is likely the original sensor that came with the IntelliTouch.

I just thought that Pentair could've evolved the SW on the IntelliCenter in a way that would no longer need the Air Temp Sensor. This something analogous to Rachio Sprinkler system that utilizes Internet-based weather data to determine sprinkler water cycles.
 
It's better to have a temperature reading from your yard or equipmemt locarion than an internet temp that could actually be a location 5+ miles away. The temps at my house versus at the municipal airport 4 miles away (closest "official" reporting station) can easily vary by 5-10 degrees.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pesh

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply