Suggestions for adding in a salt cell.

revnelson · Feb 19, 2025

I just moved into a home with a pool and want to add a salt cell to convert it to a salt system. I'm looking for suggestions/feedback on how to insert the cell given the short runs available to me. Basically my running theory is to go vertically up about a foot with two 45º elbows (or a gradual 90º) out of the filter return, then two gradual 90º's to bring the water straight down with the salt cell mounted vertically (green box in markup) and the flow pointed down to the ground, then snake it as gradually as I can back to the line before the 3 valves.

Basically I'm wondering if this will have disastrous implications for the flow rate of my system and see if anybody has a better suggestion.

Newdude · Feb 19, 2025

Hey Nelson and Welcome !!! Which cell are you going with ? The flow switch needs 'upflow' so gravity doesn't close it when it fails. (Albiet probably a long time from now). Some units have external switches so the cell can point down as long as the flow switch is up/horizontal. For all in one units, the cell must point up.

Nice thinking outside the box BTW. So many folks only see what they have and are confined to how it is.

revnelson · Feb 19, 2025

I've got the Pentair IC40. Are you suggesting that I somewhat reverse things so it goes down out of the filter, bends upwards with the salt cell vertically mounted with flow direction to the sky, then back down to connect with the line feeding the existing 3 valves? Easy enough, and precisely why I came here before making any cuts. Thank you for your feedback!

revnelson · Feb 19, 2025

Also, with that existing 90º bend from the filter into the line with 3 valves, there's really not any pipe left after cutting off the elbow. Is there a coupling piece that goes on the outside of existing connections to deal with issues like this? Or what is the best practice when removing a coupler that practically butts up against another coupler?

Newdude · Feb 19, 2025

The ICXXs have internal flow switches so it needs to be mounted up.

Consider bending a bit right to allow better access to the filter.

Or just go further to the right then put the cell horizontal.

revnelson said:
Also, with that existing 90º bend from the filter into the line with 3 valves, there's really not any pipe left after cutting off the elbow. Is there a coupling piece that goes on the outside of existing connections to deal with issues like this?

Many valves are 2.5 inch outside diameter for this exact reason. Let's ask @1poolman1 if he knows offhand.

Or you need a reamer to carefully carve the old pipe out to reuse the existing couplers/90s.

*assuming 2 inch plumbing

Link to reamer

revnelson · Feb 19, 2025

Truly great suggestions, thank you so much! Yeah I think we have the space to go right out of the filter instead of up. Up would keep the area "neater" but it seems like adding height that the pump needs to lift water would decrease flow. I don't know, maybe that's negligible.

Newdude · Feb 19, 2025

revnelson said:
but it seems like adding height that the pump needs to lift water would decrease flow. I don't know, maybe that's negligible.

Entirely negligible

revnelson said:
Yeah I think we have the space to go right out of the filter instead of up

Either way, cut the top half off a T fitting and add a bottom leg of pipe to support the weight on the new addition.

Crummy resolution but you'll get the idea, the pipe fits in the open top T nicely. :

Newdude · Feb 19, 2025

If you have dogs like mine who like to taste everything you touch to see if it's edible after the fact, I'll sell you the plans for the nochew9000 I invented.

I'll give you a 50% discount cuz we're friends now.

1poolman1 · Feb 19, 2025

Newdude said:
The ICXXs have internal flow switches so it needs to be mounted up.

View attachment 628865

Consider bending a bit right to allow better access to the filter.

View attachment 628867

Or just go further to the right then put the cell horizontal.

View attachment 628866

Many valves are 2.5 inch outside diameter for this exact reason. Let's ask @1poolman1 if he knows offhand.

Or you need a reamer to carefully carve the old pipe out to reuse the existing couplers/90s.

*assuming 2 inch plumbing

Link to reamer

All of that plumbing going into and out of the backwash valve can be cut, the filter moved back as far as needed for the cell to be installed after the filter, and then replumbed using 2" pipe extenders, couplers, and as much 2" pipe as needed.

Using pipe extenders is far easier and more reliable than reaming pipe out and hoping that the new glue joint will be good.
It is seldom understood, but the sockets in fittings and valves that pipe is glued into are actually tapered a small amount while the pipe walls are straight. That's why it is difficult to shove a piece of pipe completely into a fitting without glue, and if you do it is very difficult to remove it.

I have several size reamers but only use them if there is no other choice. Using a pipe extender, or the 4 that may be needed in this installation will not reduce flow to any appreciable amount, especially if that VSP is used properly. And, there is always Bernouli's principle regarding what happens to water flow.

Newdude · Feb 19, 2025

1poolman1 said:
All of that plumbing going into and out of the backwash valve can be cut, the filter moved back as far as needed for the cell to be installed after the filter

Nice !! Even further outside the as seen box.

TinFoilHat · Feb 19, 2025

While you're at it, put the filter on a concrete slab too for stability.

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Suggestions for adding in a salt cell.

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