SWG, ORP, Pool Cover, Clearcomfort and automation

RAH123

Member
Apr 8, 2021
11
poway, ca
I've worked towards achieving as maintenance free of a pool as possible. Yes it's impossible to have one maintenance free. And I realize ORP and other points I have below are not very well received on TFP and have read quite a bit here but wanted to post my findings and get feedback from those that have direct, detailed experience with ORP and SWG. My pool is very automated, works great with the intellichem and my FC is usually between 1.5 and 4ppm, with pool cover open or closed. But I'd like to get a better understanding of what's going on and tighten the FC range (and I'm an engineer who really wants to optimize and learn).

One of the biggest concerns is the SWG impacting ORP readings. Yes I keep my CYA around 25. I also have a waterlink spintouch meter so i'm able to see in detail what's going on with the pool. I have 14k gallon pool with Pentair intellichem, IC40 SWG, Ph and ORP sensors, ClearComfort (which I know isn't popular on TFP but I love it!), and a pool cover which has it's advantages and disadvantages.

I'll start with SWG, ORP and pool cover. These interact quite a bit. ORP is fantastic, but when SWG turns on non-stop it drives orp lower for a while if it's on pretty much non stop for 30+ minutes. There are many theories about this such as ORP suppression, lock, hydrogen bubbles, etc. Some suggest that SWG may be somehow affecting the readings electrically however if that were to occur i would think it would happen much faster such as within a minute. I ran an experiment with a sample from the pool of water i took manually and dropped the ORP probe in there and it was similar to the flow cell measurement. However i see some posting saying they swirled it for 20 minutes to get the gas out and i haven't tried that yet. Others have posted about ORP gold vs platinum probes. Apparently the platinum probes are easier and cheaper to manufacture so pentair uses platinum and those from what i've read aren't as good for salt water pools. Some say gold probes solve this problem with ORP and SWG but i haven't bought one yet to try it out. Would love any comments here on experiences that worked for you. The pool cover may be holding in the hydrogen gas 7perhaps. I also have a cover over my spa and a valve to regulate how much water is returned to the pool vs spa, and there is a small area where the spillway could allow hydrogen to escape if i had enough going through the spa first. I haven't tried running controlled experiments for a week to see if no covers helps or not. Pentair said some customers with their pool equipment below pool water level (which is my scenario too) has these problems. My clearcomfort also has a venturi and this puts back pressure -- a lot more than just below water level which may also be magnifying some effect, i don't know. My flow cell tubes are pretty close to the SWG across the heater, and i thought perhaps the pressure differential wasn't enough to have adequate water flow through the flow cell, but the flow sensor senses the flow and my other tests suggest this isn't a problem with flow rate in flow cell. But perhaps somehow hydrogen or electrical currents on SWG are affecting back to the ORP sensor. So i did an experiment with the cup of pool water manually with the probe out of the flow cell, but i didn't remove the Ph sensor also unfortunately (in case somehow current is going through the Ph sensor affecting orp readings)? DEL makes a canister that gets rid of ozone bubbles or something, was thinking about having something to do that, but haven't found something that may work or anyone that solved it.

Clearcomfort seems to work great. And the pool cover seems to work great as well. SWG and clearcomfort and ORP - my pool first week with similar water temp and weather and pool chemistry was around 5% SWG usage for the whole week (when we didn't swim). When we did turn off clearcomfort for the following week, the SWG was on about 30% of the time. My SWG on average runs 5% of the time, and it's been 4 years and the SWG works great and likely will last a very long time since it almost never is turned on. Even the plates when i went to clean them looked new. I do plan on running more experiments with Clearcomfort to have more quantitative comparisons. Many people don't like these hydroxyl radicals or ozone type systems when they haven't used them much. I see a huge benefit in the reduced chlorine uses, reduced SWG use, in 4 years i've never had to shock my pool, my combined chlorines are always very low. I don't use it as a chlorine substitute or a way to get to almost 0 chlorine, i use it in addition to my system and it works great. Less SWG means less acid in my tank. If you can keep from adding any chemicals to your pool and keep it balanced then you have a lower maintenance pool that requires less to be added -- it's a win win situation. Even with SWG. Yes I know some say these devices it's hard to know if they are working. Well mine has a light that lights up based on the UV bulb so you know the UV bulb is working, and i have my waterlink spintouch and i can see the water chemistry a lot more than just FC and can accurately measure what happens to the pool with it on and off. I welcome others inputs on this if you have direct experience and not religious pool beliefs.

In conclusion i love my system and am looking for others that have any helpful info to add, or if you message me i can provide you more info as i collect it. My goal is to have as low of maintenance of pool as possible. Right now I add CYA to the pool about once a year to get it to 25, add once a year some baking soda to get alkalinity in balance, and buy about 1 gallon of acid every 2 months which is then auto fed with intellichem. My vacuum for the pool is Polaris MAXX which i love but it requires about 25gpm flow to climb and scrub the walls, so i can't run it with the skimmer but i've automated that too. it's under my pool cover scrubbing away without having to plug in any power wires etc. If anyone else has a lower maintenance pool or suggestions I'd love to hear it. I still have to scrub my stairs and my spa, and I still test water with spintouch weekly but it's usually pretty uneventful as the automation works very well, except as I've said above i'd like to control the FC to a tighter range and this ORP suppression seems to occur and then at some point it goes away after about 4ppm and then the SWG shuts off, but i'd prefer less overshoot. (FYI I did set up dose 5 minutes and mix 10 minutes and that does help too for SWG).

-Robert
 
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Long post and a lot of effort into investigation...sorry you haven't had a response. Not many that roll your own around TFP, nor to your depth. Maybe a bump will help.

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Long post and a lot of effort into investigation...sorry you haven't had a response. Not many that roll your own around TFP, nor to your depth. Maybe a bump will help.

Road Trip Dog GIF by Tomas Brunsdon
Thank you, I would love to hear from others how they reduced the maintenance a bunch, less chemicals, less labor, etc. I wish they told me when I bought the pool cover the advantages and disadvantages of the cover with pool chemistry and how the cover should be open during rain. Pool cover in my location still seems to be a net positive though. We don't get a lot of rain so our pool doesn't dilute and our cya doesn't drop easily so we don't use stabilized chlorine.
 
My experience with TFP...the best way to reduce maintenance is to avoid automation. There are more threads WRT to maintaining automation, issues, problems, than those without. YMMV.

IG Vinyl, Ohio. SWCG, Borates. I adjust salt and borates maybe 2x per year. Ph is steady. Run CYA at 90 to minimize SWCG usage (extending cell life). Run pump 24/7, low speed, adjust SWCG output maybe weekly depending on the season. Robot runs once a day, I empty once a week. If I want to heat, I up the pump speed to get minimum flow for heater. Turn back down when I'm done. Truly trouble free.

All the ORP, tracking managing would be tiring to me. Pool water chemistry is actually very simple.

(and I'm an engineer who really wants to optimize and learn)
I really think this is your problem. I'm the same and wanted everything calculated to the Nth degree. I learned pools are horse shoes and hand grenades. I run CYA at 90, FC 10-12...don't worry about heavy demand or optimization. 90 CYA minimizes cell use, my cell runs about 10-15% 24/7. I keep CSI -.2 or so to avoid cell scaling.

I think running a higher CYA and a higher FC will limit the cell use more than your approach of keeping CYA and FC low...trying to minimize use.

You really can optimize without over thinking or over optimizing. Enjoy the pool, not the obsession. But, counterpoint, you do you.

UV is unnecessary in an outdoor pool. Plenty of UV.

Spin touch is less accurate than the Taylor/TFTESTkits.net tests.
Testing_Accuracy.jpeg
 
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thank you for your comments, i'm not using accublue but it may be the same device just different labeling, i'm using the high end store version from Lamotte which appears to be perhaps a more robust unit. I'll see what Lamotte says, i emailed them asking about accuracy and resolution. Also my pool is outdoors, but it has a pool cover. the pool cover doesn't allow light through. This means i don't really get algae growth, light, UV, etc. It has it's benefits and disadvantages. That's why I prefer the clearcomfort system as it helps with things that seem to go away with UV and i don't have that luxury.

Although i've been discussing settings and my automation system, i spend close to zero time a week, usually maybe 10 minutes a month on chemicals. I suppose once a week i use the spintouch for a couple minutes. This automation works great. My discussion is on how to fine tune it so that my chlorine levels are even more controlled. I'm not sure comparing my setting of being within 1ppm of chlorine vs yours of putting in close to 10ppm of chlorine with some weekly variation is a fair comparison in terms of control. But in terms of time i'm spending, i don't spend any time on my chlorine level, and i don't spend any time on my ph other than to run a test, and about every 2 months i fill the tank with acid and water. I don't see how this could be any simpler, so I am still a believer in automation, i'm just trying to fine tune it so my chlorine levels are less varied than they are now and trying to better understand the ORP sensor.

I've heard it's not a very good idea to have such high CYA (depending on who you talk to), but i suppose you are counter-acting this with a pretty high chlorine level. If you don't have an automated system, and you are outdoors without a pool cover, then high cya and high chlorine may be a simplified way to go. I'm curious how often you have to shock your pool in that situation, and what would be needed for chlorine with that high of CYA, and what your typical chloramine level is.

FYI My SWG cell runs maybe 2% of the time 10 hours a day. When we swim it increases automatically, then back down to almost nothing. This seems to be lessening my requirements for acid quite a bit, maybe a gallon every month or two.
 
I've worked towards achieving as maintenance free of a pool as possible.
As have I, but I took a slightly different approach. I have a simple pool automation controller (EasyTouch, or ET), an IntelliChlor (IC40) and an IntellipH (IpH). No ozone or UV or any other "magic potion" pool water processing gizmos or theories. I adhere strictly to what is taught here, to the letter.

I have never used ORP, or IntelliChem, and wouldn't if someone gave them to me. Here's why.

Even if IntelliChem and its ORP and pH sensors worked well, I wouldn't be inclined to trust them 100%. Some amount of verification of their accuracy would be required. I would still want to, need to, test my pool chemistry once a week to make sure everything was working as spec'd. That's as long as I would be willing to go with risking a failure before wanting to know about it. But here's the thing, I only test once a week anyway! The IC40 and IpH maintain my water chemistry perfectly without any additional supervision, and without any probes or "Intelli-anything" telling them what to do. So why would I want to add the cost and complexity of IntelliChem, or other systems, along with the chores of regularly adjusting and calibrating sensors, when it wouldn't pay off in any less actual labor required, and likely take much more of my time? (Answer: I wouldn't!)

With the exception of a recommended sequestrant on day one of my new finish, in seven years I have used exactly four chemicals in my pool, and only four chemicals: chlorine, muriatic acid, cyanuric acid and salt (if you can call salt a chemical). That's it. My pool looks like new. The water is always crystal clear. I've never had algae. I don't get any calcium build up on my pebble, and the water feels great. I do buy chlorine a few times a year, to cover the 12 weeks my SWG won't work in winter. And I handle muriatic acid a few times a year (to fill my IpH hopper). And other than periodic filter cleaning, or expansion joint replacement, or tile scrubbing (things that cannot be avoided with just about any pool), I spend about 10 minutes a week maintaining my pool, usually less. That includes testing water and adjusting my automation if necessary, clearing the filter and pump baskets, and the occasional quick brushing.

If you think you have that beat, time-wise, or can realistically see the potential to beat that on your current path, then good luck with your quest. But if you can't beat 10 minutes a week, you are working too hard and overthinking your processes. And I have the pool and seven years of experience to prove it.

Sorry, I didn't actually address your questions. I'm just giving you an alternative. One that I know works. And one that is fully supported by the experts here, should I ever need assistance with anything. If you are too invested in your current setup to consider this alternative, I get that. But it'll be waiting here for you if/when you ever need it. And you pretty much have all the hardware already.

Sidebar: I don't cover my pool and wouldn't want to. Whatever benefit that might get me, like a warmer pool perhaps, I don't need. (I have a solar heater.) Based on how I use my pool, I wouldn't want to have to uncover then recover my pool whenever I use it. I just jump in, and then get out, no extra chores needed. If that is costing me a little extra chlorine burn off, oh well. I wouldn't know, and wouldn't care. My pool season is shorter than I would like, but I can still enjoy my pool in the off season because it is a beautiful body of water I can see from most of my backyard windows, and from anywhere in my yard. That has value to me, and covering it would impact that value. And though I've never had a cover, I can't imagine how a pool would stay cleaner than mine, as most of the crud that enters mine gets grabbed by my skimmer, the rest by my vac. I sure wouldn't want to have to deal with clearing leaves off a pool cover.

In my quest to achieve "maintenance free" as much as possible, I think I'm there. A cover or IntelliChem or UV or ozone or whatever a ClearComfort system does, wouldn't be less work. Now if I could only keep those pesky humans out of my pool water... ;)
 
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